tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32552628544323248792024-03-05T09:00:31.584-08:00AmajinStepping through the WindowAmajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.comBlogger149125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-2877938529955863902018-10-07T15:54:00.001-07:002018-10-07T16:04:28.818-07:00Canyons of the SouthwestHaving enjoyed our National Parks trip (Yellowstone, Teton, etc.) 6 years ago, we signed up in January for a New York Times sponsored trip to the canyons of Utah and Arizona to take place in September. In April, Jim suffered from a debilitating physical condition that necessitated cancelling a May trip to China. In June, with the final payment date for the Canyon trip approaching, although much improved, it did not seem prudent for Jim to go on what the itinerary described as a strenuous trip. He graciously agreed to let me go and for son Ken to be his surrogate. Photos are courtesy of Ken.<br />
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Our trip started in Las Vegas. Here we are at the “Grand Canal” at The Venetian. Over a dinner of tapas, we met the other participants, the tour leaders and the New York Times Expert, Jim Robbins. Jim has written for the NYTimes for over 35 years, mostly on science and environmental issues. He also wrote for The Christian Science Monitor. In addition, he has done research on the polygamist groups of the Mormon Church. His commentary and lectures during the trip were informative and fascinating.<br />
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Through the Mojave Desert and on to Zion National Park.</div>
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We left the glitter of Las Vegas and traveled through the Mojave Desert with its Joshua Trees dotting the landscape. A stop in a park for lunch and introductions before we reached Zion. Zion became a national park in 1919. It is characterized by its sheer multicolored walls of sandstone narrow canyons and the Virgin River which runs through them. We hiked the Riverside Walk which follows the Virgin River to the narrows, a spot where the canyon walls come close enough to the river to necessitate continuing in the water, we turned back at this point. Along the way we saw hanging gardens, plants holding on to the sides of the canyon walls. Night in Springdale.</div>
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Zion Day 2<br />
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After breakfast at the Zion Lodge, we hiked the Emerald Pools Trail, a wooded hike that leads to a waterfall and the lower Emerald Pool. The path ended where it had been washed out by a flash flood in July of this year. Flash floods, occurring mostly during monsoon season (July and August) turn the calm Virgin River into a raging force.<br />
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On the way to Bryce.<br />
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We made our way to Bryce National Park passing through some spectacular scenery, saw Smokey and heard a lecture by Jim Robbins over lunch.<br />
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What’s a HooDoo?<br />
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Bryce Canyon is not a canyon, but rather a collection of natural amphitheaters. It became a National Park in 1928. The HooDoos are the geological structures that fill the amphitheaters. The towers of rocks were formed by years of wind and water erosion that carved away some of the rock. The word hoodoo may come from voodoo and the legend told by the Ancestral Puebloans that a powerful Coyote turned some evil people into stone. Either way, the resulting structures are spectacular. Bryce Canyon got its name from an early Mormon pioneer named Ebenezer Bryce who described the canyon as “a helluva place to loose a cow” Our hike down into the HooDoos included passing through “Wall Street” with its 200 foot tall cliffs and a sighting of “Queen Victoria.’<br />
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Sunrise Over the HooDoos.<br />
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We ventured out early, in the dark to catch the first glimpses of the sun as it lit up Bryce Canyon. Definitely worth braving the chilly morning air.<br />
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Grand Staircase-Ecalante National Monument.<br />
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Bill Clinton designated this area, nearly 1.9 million acres a national monument in 1996. In 2017, it was reduced to 1 million acres by presidential proclamation It was the last land to be mapped in the contiguous United States. It is a mostly undeveloped area of canyons, mesas, plateaus and river valleys. Another lecture along the way. Ken and I opted for the more challenging Lower Calf Creek Falls Hike through a canyon to a waterfall. We were rewarded for our efforts, trudging through sand, with the spectacular waterfall. Ken took a swim.<br />
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Glen Canyon Dam, Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon.<br />
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Leaving the HooDoos behind after another spectacular sunrise, we made our way to Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River. Glen Canyon Dam was completed in 1966 and is named for the canyon flooded by the Lake Powell reservoir. Lake Powell is named for John Wesley Powell, who led the first boat expedition of the Grand Canyon in 1869. This was after he lost an arm to a cannonball in the Battle of Shiloh. Glen Canyon Dam was built to ensure equal water rights to the Upper Basin (Colorado, Wyoming, and most of New Mexico and Utah) and the Lower Basin (California, Nevada and most of Arizona). Unfortunately, with the prolonged drought in the area, there are concerns about the ability of the reservoir to meet the needs of agriculture and cities dependent on the Colorado River for water. The talk given by Jim Robbins at this stop gave a somewhat bleak outlook for the situation. Lake Powell, our evening destination is a popular recreation area, especially with boaters.<br />
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After lunch, we headed to the town of Page, Arizona where, after a brief visit to the Powell Museum, we took a tour of the Antelope Canyon on the Navajo Reservation. The Navajo name for the Canyon translates into “the place where water runs through rocks,” which is fitting since flash floods in the monsoon season carved away the sandstone in the slot canyon. To get to the Canyon you must take a tour organized by Native Americans. We climbed into the back of a pick-up truck fitted with bench seats holding 6 or 7 on a side. There were three seatbelts on each side which the driver explained was to keep the passengers from standing up and getting bounced out. Bounce was an understatement. We arrived at a clearing before an entrance to the Canyon (along with hundreds of other tourists). Our guide Nate set everyone’s phone or camera to the best setting to capture the beautiful colors. Supposedly, the highest price ever paid for a photograph, $6.5 million, was one taken in the Canyon in 2014.<br />
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(Photo John Baston)<br />
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A side note about time zones: Our hotel on Lake Powell was in Page, Arizona and was on Mountain Standard Time, the nearby Navajo Reservation was on Mountain Daylight Time, so our electronic devices, depending on which cell tower they were picking up, could display different times even when situated next to each other.<br />
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On our way to the Grand Canyon.<br />
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Our first stop was Horseshoe Bend in Glen Canyon, a widely photographed area where the Colorado River makes a sharp turn around a sandstone escarpment. I understand the railings were a recent addition - yikes! The view was spectacular.<br />
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We made a brief stop at Cameron Trading Post, open since 1916. A wide offering from trinkets to exquisite weaving, but nothing to tempt us.<br />
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Wow! It’s the first word that comes to mind when you see the Grand Canyon. I had visited the Grand Canyon in 1980 with my brother and I remembered that it was beautiful and that it snowed in May. The Grand Canyon was designated a National Monument in 1908 and a National Park in 1919 by an act of Congress. It is 277 river miles long, roughly 4,000 feet deep and on average, 10 miles across.<br />
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After lunch which included a serenade by one of the enormous ravens, we explored the south rim, where our hotel, The Thunderbird Lodge was located. Our group began a hike down the Bright Angel Trail, but many turned back deciding that the trail edge was too daunting. We explored the Kolb Studio, where there was an exhibit of plein air paintings created as a part of a special celebration of art event. Many of the buildings on the South Rim were designed by Mary Colter early in the 20th century.<br />
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After dinner, Ken and I explored the trail leading to Hermits Rest.<br />
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Grand Canyon Day Two.<br />
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We started out the day with a guided walk on The Trail of Time, led by a geologist from the Grand Canyon Field Institute. The Trail of Time is an interpretive path representing one billion years of time and the corresponding geological timeline.<br />
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After we collected our hiker’s lunches, the group split up into the abitious, less ambitious, and non-ambitious. Ken, of course, was in the ambitious group (2 plus guide) who went to walk part of the South Kaibab Trail. As the guide was leaving he asked if it was okay to take pictures of Ken doing dangerous things - what’s a mother to say? From the guidebook description “the trail travels on ridge lines with expansive views.” Ken descended 1 1/2 miles or 1,500 vertical feet, had lunch, did some dangerous stuff, and hiked back out. His pictures are below.<br />
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I opted for the less ambitious outing which included taking the bus to the Hermits Rest to enjoy the views and a short hike to one of the other lookout points. I then headed back to the hotel where I ran into Ken. We then headed out to the Abyss with our watercolors. The Abyss is a lookout point where the canyon walls drop 2,600 feet, once again providing a spectacular view.<br />
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We got up early and hiked down part of the Bright Angel Trail to view the sunrise, it did not disappoint. After breakfast we stopped by the History Room to see a fireplace made of rocks of the Grand Canyon in geological order.<br />
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Then into the vans for the trip to the airport in Phoenix with a stop at a Mexican restaurant in Sedona, the only Mexican food on our trip. We traveled through the Sonoran Desert, distinguished by the Saguaro Cactus. The trip ended with a red-eye flight back to Boston and we went from 100 degrees to 60.<br />
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Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-80933211987939267632017-10-26T18:36:00.000-07:002017-10-26T18:36:13.613-07:00Malta. Small, Not Simple. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-If6gdBYQZ_8/WexnCLiUYFI/AAAAAAAAGrA/p21Tfdbc9D4ET4lNqApcsHNeU0AiypibgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022113741075" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-If6gdBYQZ_8/WexnCLiUYFI/AAAAAAAAGrA/p21Tfdbc9D4ET4lNqApcsHNeU0AiypibgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022113741075" id="blogsy-1509064620560.3665" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="700"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Malta is the smallest member state in the European Union. It is also the fastest growing economically and, since the Arab Spring scared tourists away from North Africa, has recently doubled its tourism from around one million to two million per year. Not bad for a country with about 430,000 inhabitants. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l3Qn9j8E6iE/WexnEHC_B5I/AAAAAAAAGrE/xOMi4jNWlsETEq1ZJwk5oJ2wkysd0_9eACHMYCw/s1518/Photo%2B20171022113741087" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l3Qn9j8E6iE/WexnEHC_B5I/AAAAAAAAGrE/xOMi4jNWlsETEq1ZJwk5oJ2wkysd0_9eACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022113741087" id="blogsy-1509064620578.2554" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Most people come for beach vacations (people sometimes swim even in January) or on cruise ships. We started thinking about Malta when we lived in Belgium, a wonderful place with consistently dreary weather. Having sampled Spain and Morocco for our sunshine fix, Malta seemed like a beach destination with an exotic twist, we didn't know anyone who had been there and the lore of the Knights of Malta made it intriguing. In that 30 years, Malta has undoubtedly changed quite a lot, but so have we. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FPEQHh69KsU/WexnGsifNVI/AAAAAAAAGrI/dmooQrmq87QvrWSXEytzO_-RCB92UZFaQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022113741081" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FPEQHh69KsU/WexnGsifNVI/AAAAAAAAGrI/dmooQrmq87QvrWSXEytzO_-RCB92UZFaQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022113741081" id="blogsy-1509064620567.8281" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">History buffs know Malta as the European bastion against the Ottoman Empire in the days when the Turks laid siege to Vienna (as well as Malta) and as the home of that Order of Knights of The Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem (Knights Hospitaller), otherwise known as the Knights of Malta (phew). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TrJJc9tYuu0/WexnJdDknWI/AAAAAAAAGrM/GMm-NpkceykDC7L3yr8g7NNmlvZb9TdcACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022113741050" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TrJJc9tYuu0/WexnJdDknWI/AAAAAAAAGrM/GMm-NpkceykDC7L3yr8g7NNmlvZb9TdcACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022113741050" id="blogsy-1509064620524.9265" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Indeed, this weekly <em>In Guardia</em> performance in Fort St. Elmo draws a good crowd (almost everyone sat in the shade on our side of the parade ground, carting chairs over from the sunny side). It was close by the apartment we rented for a week in the heart of the 16th century capital of Valletta. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OHyRLSKUV4g/WexqVFpHHiI/AAAAAAAAGrY/xcJn2Nd1jUsq09XMWOLG9EjbZkF60kKEgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022115203071" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OHyRLSKUV4g/WexqVFpHHiI/AAAAAAAAGrY/xcJn2Nd1jUsq09XMWOLG9EjbZkF60kKEgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022115203071" id="blogsy-1509064620580.077" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's hard to overstate the importance of Malta and of this fort - Fort Saint Angelo - to the discouragement of the Ottomans, for it was the redoubt that saved the Knights from complete disaster in1565 and put a dent in the Ottoman reputation for invincibility. But, it's not in Valletta. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ROTwCsoYRB8/We-JWk-hRzI/AAAAAAAAGsI/39dXVf3piDAo1e3SrF2WP7n7AfsBweA7QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024144110805" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ROTwCsoYRB8/We-JWk-hRzI/AAAAAAAAGsI/39dXVf3piDAo1e3SrF2WP7n7AfsBweA7QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024144110805" id="blogsy-1509064620574.1284" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Sparing you too much detail, this painting in the Grand Master's Palace in Valletta provides some idea of the lay of the strategic land figuring in that Great Siege. It depicts where the Ottoman forces were arrayed at some point in the siege. Valletta is at the tip of that peninsula separating two big harbors. It's where the Knights should have built their fortress and where they did build it after their close call with the Ottomans. That harbor on the right is the Grand Harbor and it's the biggest natural harbor in the Mediterranean. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LaZ4t9gvnH4/We-fIyncRFI/AAAAAAAAGsY/FuB0ZB9A_vMMJj-U5HRbCS62CqY6_-_AwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024161410835" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LaZ4t9gvnH4/We-fIyncRFI/AAAAAAAAGsY/FuB0ZB9A_vMMJj-U5HRbCS62CqY6_-_AwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024161410835" id="blogsy-1509064620558.2573" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Not all of the harbors in Malta are enormous. Some are really quaint and charming, like this one at Marsaxlokk, a fishing village of about 3,500 people. Your intrepid travelers got there by the local bus, which is the way we went everywhere on the main island of Malta (except across those enormous harbors in the painting). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L465A-7fcSk/We-h0gTxQXI/AAAAAAAAGsk/HUu0ti8Fcvwf4f-WE6hcwIqnDDziIrycgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024162520566" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L465A-7fcSk/We-h0gTxQXI/AAAAAAAAGsk/HUu0ti8Fcvwf4f-WE6hcwIqnDDziIrycgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024162520566" id="blogsy-1509064620563.417" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We started our exploration in Mdina, the inland Maltese capital before the Knights arrived in 1530 after they were chased out of Rhodes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z6bh6Js8NYc/We-h2Eq55jI/AAAAAAAAGso/P0w98ebF8NYXf6gci0q96AYSeT-VPcligCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024162520572" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z6bh6Js8NYc/We-h2Eq55jI/AAAAAAAAGso/P0w98ebF8NYXf6gci0q96AYSeT-VPcligCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024162520572" id="blogsy-1509064620497.7153" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">As a medieval citadel it has quite a view over the land it commanded. In the distance is St. Paul's Bay, as in where he had his famous shipwreck. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aqtJgvrVuJk/We-h4AuWe4I/AAAAAAAAGss/NUH56qzKiUYGy_AVMd0gd1G-xrtSGc6MwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024162520576" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aqtJgvrVuJk/We-h4AuWe4I/AAAAAAAAGss/NUH56qzKiUYGy_AVMd0gd1G-xrtSGc6MwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024162520576" id="blogsy-1509064620548.2244" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's quiet inside Mdina. Only about 500 people live there now and it's popular with tourists. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QR46sgKJzdA/We-h6MPsVgI/AAAAAAAAGsw/BOnO8k-pSh0CtubSbcl1yW-CDH0YLra8gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024162520580" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QR46sgKJzdA/We-h6MPsVgI/AAAAAAAAGsw/BOnO8k-pSh0CtubSbcl1yW-CDH0YLra8gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024162520580" id="blogsy-1509064620525.1765" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">St. Paul's cathedral reminds us that it was here that Paul converted the Roman governor Publius and healed Publius' father. Publius is supposed to be buried under the altar. The floor, of course, consists of the mosaic overlay over tombs filling the sanctuary, a common sight. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gX7AoohNkvc/We-iYOy0kgI/AAAAAAAAGs4/CeNc6cYzGMYyhC1UxQ5n70L_RF0SfIILACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024162800642" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gX7AoohNkvc/We-iYOy0kgI/AAAAAAAAGs4/CeNc6cYzGMYyhC1UxQ5n70L_RF0SfIILACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024162800642" id="blogsy-1509064620514.0188" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To find a bite to eat, we went outside the walls of Mdina to Rabat and followed GPS through a maze of streets. If "Rabat" seems like Arabic, it is. It's the word for a suburb outside a citadel. The Maltese language is the only Semitic language written with a Roman alphabet. It has incorporated lots of Italian and a smattering of other languages. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TmF5kdmEX_M/We-qdy5FrGI/AAAAAAAAGtU/w-CuR7YiXAAs4x-BH0bO3qErXddUuvD0gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024170207115" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TmF5kdmEX_M/We-qdy5FrGI/AAAAAAAAGtU/w-CuR7YiXAAs4x-BH0bO3qErXddUuvD0gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024170207115" id="blogsy-1509064620575.8115" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">From Mdina, we headed to the coast on the opposite side of the island from Valletta and deep back into time</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xYEwlZ0cmUw/We-qfS3Qk9I/AAAAAAAAGtY/Ys2AMQWDG6Ue6ONkQtUrWll1QU9yIRdCQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024170207111" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xYEwlZ0cmUw/We-qfS3Qk9I/AAAAAAAAGtY/Ys2AMQWDG6Ue6ONkQtUrWll1QU9yIRdCQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024170207111" id="blogsy-1509064620557.0637" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To two Neolithic temple sites - Hagar Qim and Mnajdra - that overlook the sea. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3eXA9Bymcr4/We-qhUHf-GI/AAAAAAAAGtc/MMrZbrI7PcIc3Is0pYyXy-xS4v6V2kSMACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024170207101" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3eXA9Bymcr4/We-qhUHf-GI/AAAAAAAAGtc/MMrZbrI7PcIc3Is0pYyXy-xS4v6V2kSMACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024170207101" id="blogsy-1509064620591.9563" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Dating from 3600-3200 BC, Malta's Neolithic temples are the world's oldest freestanding stone structures, significantly older than places like Stonehenge or the Pyramids. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3VZ6rLKplpCfpfuQ543k8UFNE08P5vrQuSY4gYbTG1I4DxpHobwTDhPVXvW-iI6i3fFqy3dEdunEWcRbWRo-3m-_-7JeebChPLyn9PM7UV56xBML6zwWnUeiEyX3lBA_C_7xu9EGLABo/s2048/Photo+20171024170207107" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3VZ6rLKplpCfpfuQ543k8UFNE08P5vrQuSY4gYbTG1I4DxpHobwTDhPVXvW-iI6i3fFqy3dEdunEWcRbWRo-3m-_-7JeebChPLyn9PM7UV56xBML6zwWnUeiEyX3lBA_C_7xu9EGLABo/s500/Photo+20171024170207107" id="blogsy-1509064620557.0293" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">For us, this was one of those "who knew?" moments. The holes in the curved walls seem to have been for astronomical observation, something like Stonehenge. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LbCSFQnRM8w/We-qkxmBqaI/AAAAAAAAGtk/5QZrZs-i25QZAUfg8gA_MH8HEK1rd-oqwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024170207096" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LbCSFQnRM8w/We-qkxmBqaI/AAAAAAAAGtk/5QZrZs-i25QZAUfg8gA_MH8HEK1rd-oqwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024170207096" id="blogsy-1509064620515.933" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This is a motif repeated frequently in the temple complexes</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gAAAfah2w9fMlI58jQfIGICIQk5rmRrZVG2WSO4-mT3NsFv4vkibAJnCZQPrHEUFbJ80xGc-xjOA1pnKmc9ko9Zc6yVQIU_oZ1rMSvqCcexNhdV6zhnc9HGCZZMQMVXQX71dQBcgDqbY/s2048/Photo+20171024170207091" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gAAAfah2w9fMlI58jQfIGICIQk5rmRrZVG2WSO4-mT3NsFv4vkibAJnCZQPrHEUFbJ80xGc-xjOA1pnKmc9ko9Zc6yVQIU_oZ1rMSvqCcexNhdV6zhnc9HGCZZMQMVXQX71dQBcgDqbY/s500/Photo+20171024170207091" id="blogsy-1509064620563.7954" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Along with the recurring theme of what they refer to as the "Fat Lady," although that tends to minimize the achievements of these people who did not have metal tools, but relied on different stones and bones for the arsenal of tools to shape their world. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-azaWzBCHq34/We_FSoenSNI/AAAAAAAAGt8/Jz5oxFJ1zhsuyIINaZXLlYGkQ25nTDzmgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185612116" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-azaWzBCHq34/We_FSoenSNI/AAAAAAAAGt8/Jz5oxFJ1zhsuyIINaZXLlYGkQ25nTDzmgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185612116" id="blogsy-1509064620588.2825" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Meanwhile, back in Valletta to the Armoury at the Grand Master's Palace and a time when metal was all the rage. Here we can see that the Ottoman troops at the time of the Great Siege were fairly lightly armored. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IRSiq8xFMLk/We_FUr3pn7I/AAAAAAAAGuA/-GFR0gASrNMsq_D9DACZJ60GdjfUO4sxACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185612120" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IRSiq8xFMLk/We_FUr3pn7I/AAAAAAAAGuA/-GFR0gASrNMsq_D9DACZJ60GdjfUO4sxACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185612120" id="blogsy-1509064620588.9043" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Christian troops wore much heavier armor. This better protected them, but also made them less agile. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqTh3xOcTrOMe8WWY7ooxJkn8AZNd5Vnd1DM_QGRP7L2oHSphiVgwiyuqjnjr1N5n0fZ8YpbIoK9iR3epxCehSiZZULTctyxKyjRuqcqe_X6j3cBvjluo-NRYeyV5jeI1AUoDxahq5o_17/s2048/Photo+20171024185625973" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqTh3xOcTrOMe8WWY7ooxJkn8AZNd5Vnd1DM_QGRP7L2oHSphiVgwiyuqjnjr1N5n0fZ8YpbIoK9iR3epxCehSiZZULTctyxKyjRuqcqe_X6j3cBvjluo-NRYeyV5jeI1AUoDxahq5o_17/s500/Photo+20171024185625973" id="blogsy-1509064620584.112" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Clearly, the armor was for a lot more than protection. The decoration was really quite beautiful. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zTrUp6mpQr0/We_FfnF-PRI/AAAAAAAAGuY/sJ61AQ0vO3EUL0fi98-xT2ChvIHAlu6SgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185625979" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zTrUp6mpQr0/We_FfnF-PRI/AAAAAAAAGuY/sJ61AQ0vO3EUL0fi98-xT2ChvIHAlu6SgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185625979" id="blogsy-1509064620565.9675" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And then there were the innovations that never caught on, such as this 16th century German sword-gun. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6f9LrdvTKuQ/We_FmdnEJAI/AAAAAAAAGug/FoeQNfS8bYsC2cYEtCyjjYUboIPR6TIGgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185625987" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6f9LrdvTKuQ/We_FmdnEJAI/AAAAAAAAGug/FoeQNfS8bYsC2cYEtCyjjYUboIPR6TIGgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185625987" id="blogsy-1509064620527.0063" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The rapier is probably better known from swashbuckling tales than from military merit. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aHrNV2QhQ3o/We_FuLx5FzI/AAAAAAAAGus/JSyYgOhX4D8OdCIx8NoHdJ8vJCoLfiV9wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185625997" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aHrNV2QhQ3o/We_FuLx5FzI/AAAAAAAAGus/JSyYgOhX4D8OdCIx8NoHdJ8vJCoLfiV9wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185625997" id="blogsy-1509064620540.8025" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Visits are also permitted to some of the Palace rooms. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gS4kySsQtV4/We_Fp0gi0DI/AAAAAAAAGuk/DybFNKJEf0oc--qZ0dNal5f2-1dgco28QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185625990" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gS4kySsQtV4/We_Fp0gi0DI/AAAAAAAAGuk/DybFNKJEf0oc--qZ0dNal5f2-1dgco28QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185625990" id="blogsy-1509064620543.3696" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KXizD2XXkqw/We_Fr9u2i0I/AAAAAAAAGuo/x253V43NBB8g_AxXQ3dc6sDIYAv95GycwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024185625994" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KXizD2XXkqw/We_Fr9u2i0I/AAAAAAAAGuo/x253V43NBB8g_AxXQ3dc6sDIYAv95GycwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024185625994" id="blogsy-1509064620576.0244" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Although it's somewhat limited because the Palace also houses the Office of the President of Malta, so parts may be off bounds for visitors that might normally be open. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rQNJAZqvoZE/We_O_Kt3QSI/AAAAAAAAGu8/Ibw3shRI_C0U3aqA2beOmqd5Elj9LCgzACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024193759977" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rQNJAZqvoZE/We_O_Kt3QSI/AAAAAAAAGu8/Ibw3shRI_C0U3aqA2beOmqd5Elj9LCgzACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024193759977" id="blogsy-1509064620531.3918" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Nearby (although Valletta is so small that everything is nearby) is the unassuming (on the outside) St. John's Co-Cathedral, built in the 1570s. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h61oCWPy4EY/We_PBQS1vTI/AAAAAAAAGvA/lRI6SUWJRnY6VDBRvnsMekUabICHMFESwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024193759960" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h61oCWPy4EY/We_PBQS1vTI/AAAAAAAAGvA/lRI6SUWJRnY6VDBRvnsMekUabICHMFESwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024193759960" id="blogsy-1509064620567.556" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Not wanting to be outdone in opulence by the Pope, the Knights decided to remodel in the 17th century</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T71TAYGWOUQ/We_PDsH6JlI/AAAAAAAAGvE/TTEjCRH9M1keJVEUuD2QWAMYZQv1lMNggCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024193759966" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T71TAYGWOUQ/We_PDsH6JlI/AAAAAAAAGvE/TTEjCRH9M1keJVEUuD2QWAMYZQv1lMNggCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024193759966" id="blogsy-1509064620582.3713" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Resulting in the baroque-iest baroque interior we've ever seen. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rpgErrAQoJU/We_PGBQtRiI/AAAAAAAAGvI/Y3LW2j0Gld0jaz1h1XVjzuJG6SVEMyj5gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024193759971" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rpgErrAQoJU/We_PGBQtRiI/AAAAAAAAGvI/Y3LW2j0Gld0jaz1h1XVjzuJG6SVEMyj5gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024193759971" id="blogsy-1509064620559.0557" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">After a while it becomes overwhelming. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fRlRbm8eF9Q/We_PIQ9ysJI/AAAAAAAAGvM/nIPPBC25tusnFtcRHJdWmPx08whFoOhFwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171024193759974" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fRlRbm8eF9Q/We_PIQ9ysJI/AAAAAAAAGvM/nIPPBC25tusnFtcRHJdWmPx08whFoOhFwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171024193759974" id="blogsy-1509064620603.3887" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A nice treat, however, were two magnificent Caravaggio paintings in the Oratory (no photos allowed). <em>The Beheading of St. John the Baptist</em> is considered to be one of his masterpieces. It's a very large painting and the only one he actually signed. It is displayed in the space for which he painted it. Of course, Caravaggio ended up as a prisoner after he became involved in a deadly fight with a prominent Knight. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IoiYETCsF6A/WfDDce0y1sI/AAAAAAAAGv0/_ERr5bYRI1AeD6xMotoq8wAi4e5T2hAQwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025130103086" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IoiYETCsF6A/WfDDce0y1sI/AAAAAAAAGv0/_ERr5bYRI1AeD6xMotoq8wAi4e5T2hAQwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025130103086" id="blogsy-1509064620560.204" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Knights weren't those fellows with the pikes or crossbows. They were from the aristocracy across Europe and as a religious order had tremendous wealth at their disposal. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O5-OK5jO2rM/WfDOThjZ38I/AAAAAAAAGwE/OGD_E5c9XfMUcy6cQ1y6uNu7lRwamIaXQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025134735217" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O5-OK5jO2rM/WfDOThjZ38I/AAAAAAAAGwE/OGD_E5c9XfMUcy6cQ1y6uNu7lRwamIaXQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025134735217" id="blogsy-1509064620619.9062" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">So, with the labor of 5,000 Turkish slaves, they hurriedly built Valletta (named after the Grand Master at the time of the Siege) on the high ground of the peninsula overlooking both harbors, creating the only city we know where walking to any destination within the city is uphill and returning is even more uphill.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-44oLFls0DLU/WfDRtRHJgOI/AAAAAAAAGwQ/WMiSZGLZFmoWMVNne5LXQht7_WBk2MplQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025140141014" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-44oLFls0DLU/WfDRtRHJgOI/AAAAAAAAGwQ/WMiSZGLZFmoWMVNne5LXQht7_WBk2MplQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025140141014" id="blogsy-1509064620572.295" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, time for another bus ride. This one is out to the Tarxien Temples, four Neolithic temples in close proximity under a big protective tent. Again, they date from 3600 to 3000 BC. One of the mysteries of these temples is that all trace of whoever made them disappears at around 2500 BC. The Bronze Age people who show up next in the pre-historical record are unrelated. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H1NDXVAjms8/WfDSUJle67I/AAAAAAAAGwk/sEuC88FlGwQVBmbqnXylZOJrkrDhJ_qkQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025140440312" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H1NDXVAjms8/WfDSUJle67I/AAAAAAAAGwk/sEuC88FlGwQVBmbqnXylZOJrkrDhJ_qkQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025140440312" id="blogsy-1509064620537.4375" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZuoGsVm1XbQ/WfDSV6J7URI/AAAAAAAAGwo/VSdeFtWhlYslG1Qk3EQM-sNgxrfnsvLVACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025140440316" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZuoGsVm1XbQ/WfDSV6J7URI/AAAAAAAAGwo/VSdeFtWhlYslG1Qk3EQM-sNgxrfnsvLVACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025140440316" id="blogsy-1509064620582.2578" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">That artifacts such as these temple sites should have survived is, to us, remarkable. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bldK6HAJM_s/WfDRvY2VEpI/AAAAAAAAGwU/Tq-DOVLGteooJkVY1Zf4KnCrvZnDQcSfwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025140141019" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bldK6HAJM_s/WfDRvY2VEpI/AAAAAAAAGwU/Tq-DOVLGteooJkVY1Zf4KnCrvZnDQcSfwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025140141019" id="blogsy-1509064620617.0386" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Even more remarkable is a nearby site from the same epoch. Rather than being constructed of stone slabs hewn from the earth, it was carved from the rock itself as an underworld realm for the dead. It is the Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum, Hypogeum being derived from Greek for "underground."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mqNhGTPqL-Q/WfDRxUWE_yI/AAAAAAAAGwY/D3cs1yYrkNgdREhoR7wfPqVH6FABpnROACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025140141023" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mqNhGTPqL-Q/WfDRxUWE_yI/AAAAAAAAGwY/D3cs1yYrkNgdREhoR7wfPqVH6FABpnROACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025140141023" id="blogsy-1509064620548.799" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Dating from 3300 to 3000 BC, it is a re-creation of the above ground temples we'd already seen. It has convinced archeologists that, for instance, the Neolithic temples had roofs. The difference is that the placement of door openings allowed for a significant depth of human bones to accumulate within each room of the Hypogeum as the builders gradually worked their way to ever deeper levels to accommodate their dead. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-viIS9W_XMo0/WfDRzp98DDI/AAAAAAAAGwc/f5-xwAH491ASxUGY4CSb0m0Qa19n7ZMRQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025140159367" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-viIS9W_XMo0/WfDRzp98DDI/AAAAAAAAGwc/f5-xwAH491ASxUGY4CSb0m0Qa19n7ZMRQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025140159367" id="blogsy-1509064620545.999" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The survival within this protected environment of some decorative elements using ochre also provides some insight into how the above ground temples might have been decorated. As it is, all that remains for us are elements made of stone. All else is gone. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5LoMBEe39p0/WfDZIzCqqJI/AAAAAAAAGxE/jx73VGNETG87PAGdB4hREoQ3NgDXtz7pgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025143338639" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5LoMBEe39p0/WfDZIzCqqJI/AAAAAAAAGxE/jx73VGNETG87PAGdB4hREoQ3NgDXtz7pgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025143338639" id="blogsy-1509064620617.7827" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Steeped in enough prehistory to last for a while, we boarded a ferry and sailed past the tiny island of Comino </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fQj75dN-sZQ/WfDZKzVrOoI/AAAAAAAAGxI/oVl_S9nnwtwl7DMYIcorjctGCVzFmknHQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025143338642" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fQj75dN-sZQ/WfDZKzVrOoI/AAAAAAAAGxI/oVl_S9nnwtwl7DMYIcorjctGCVzFmknHQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025143338642" id="blogsy-1509064620588.5747" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To the sister island of Gozo, where the Maltese go to relax and enjoy a slower pace of life and lots of tourists go for the beach. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ueopsKKFPeA/WfDZMzdPYPI/AAAAAAAAGxM/I_Wu1yWzCkQW2NInKdTH2R-Wf4ku8nQggCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025143338645" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ueopsKKFPeA/WfDZMzdPYPI/AAAAAAAAGxM/I_Wu1yWzCkQW2NInKdTH2R-Wf4ku8nQggCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025143338645" id="blogsy-1509064620589.7502" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Before picking up our rental car, we headed up to the citadel in Victoria (also known as Rabat, naturally) to get the lay of the land of this Manhattan-sized island that's less than 9 miles across in its largest dimension. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-exvlkErCOoA/WfDZO7dNShI/AAAAAAAAGxQ/7LMYvCzUrGYC8G57KH_4FoK_3Co7BVHswCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025143338648" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-exvlkErCOoA/WfDZO7dNShI/AAAAAAAAGxQ/7LMYvCzUrGYC8G57KH_4FoK_3Co7BVHswCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025143338648" id="blogsy-1509064620639.7114" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOp74irsjmgVoaX1UCVKgB2a7sCZ4oGoCrFaA-JeHGWXxi8-0X0gwyQJH6xCLKciGSXhW9iW2pvU_6-bvmVPphrMipEB19gDuT47EFSHD-2Lg5hPEJQvSvQEzjfna9aXqw0AwLkxX5okw/s2048/Photo+20171025143338654" target="_blank" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><font color="#000000"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOp74irsjmgVoaX1UCVKgB2a7sCZ4oGoCrFaA-JeHGWXxi8-0X0gwyQJH6xCLKciGSXhW9iW2pvU_6-bvmVPphrMipEB19gDuT47EFSHD-2Lg5hPEJQvSvQEzjfna9aXqw0AwLkxX5okw/s500/Photo+20171025143338654" id="blogsy-1509064620570.2288" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></font></a><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's significantly more rural than Malta Island with lots of small tractors on the roads running between fields. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fDVGqPpzdGE/WfDZQxDVInI/AAAAAAAAGxU/4ddw5I97JusayeWUtuUZOf_o-T-sqMXGgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171025143338651" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fDVGqPpzdGE/WfDZQxDVInI/AAAAAAAAGxU/4ddw5I97JusayeWUtuUZOf_o-T-sqMXGgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171025143338651" id="blogsy-1509064620606.852" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's where people from the larger island come to relax, away from the hustle, bustle, and overcrowding of the main island. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r5fB2U_tXK4/WfJPsvcHXkI/AAAAAAAAGy0/SG8lfBaJ-Xox77NeYD3uuRHYkoWpniyXgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026171208515" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r5fB2U_tXK4/WfJPsvcHXkI/AAAAAAAAGy0/SG8lfBaJ-Xox77NeYD3uuRHYkoWpniyXgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026171208515" id="blogsy-1509064620567.0515" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And the location for some film work. The famous Azure Window, an enormous natural rock window and the backdrop for the wedding scene of Daenerys to the Dothraki warlord Khal Drogo in the first episode of Game of Thrones, has unfortunately tumbled into the sea after a severe storm in March 2017. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uf403oDyyJk/WfJPuieyWXI/AAAAAAAAGy4/ntVpuR07rtYjt9_j9x8WPbXnKBcVXBxqwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026171209072" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uf403oDyyJk/WfJPuieyWXI/AAAAAAAAGy4/ntVpuR07rtYjt9_j9x8WPbXnKBcVXBxqwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026171209072" id="blogsy-1509064620590.9023" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_QUTnO6c0ac/WfJPwZf1xMI/AAAAAAAAGy8/_50_qQl6maYEqESz--WhQ8wBruHpTxLRQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026171209498" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_QUTnO6c0ac/WfJPwZf1xMI/AAAAAAAAGy8/_50_qQl6maYEqESz--WhQ8wBruHpTxLRQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026171209498" id="blogsy-1509064620558.9817" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Still with us since Roman times are the salt pans </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t7xGTzrFMcM/WfJPyGslngI/AAAAAAAAGzA/nuSKbbngvyAO6P3iOAZ-t6h2C2jPWzMNwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026171209919" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t7xGTzrFMcM/WfJPyGslngI/AAAAAAAAGzA/nuSKbbngvyAO6P3iOAZ-t6h2C2jPWzMNwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026171209919" id="blogsy-1509064620579.967" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Used by local residents to process sea salt. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oSJeKuSfHns/WfJP0IW6BUI/AAAAAAAAGzE/E32wi8RpLsIr11M7OhMLj0wwxrC6JakuwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026171210352" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oSJeKuSfHns/WfJP0IW6BUI/AAAAAAAAGzE/E32wi8RpLsIr11M7OhMLj0wwxrC6JakuwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026171210352" id="blogsy-1509064620576.1714" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In this wildly primal setting</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H8cTN9pnbZM/WfJP12ZhlrI/AAAAAAAAGzI/DkcYvo_m1Pk5_Fmr6IOBFWwn5MbQqZ6CACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026171210777" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H8cTN9pnbZM/WfJP12ZhlrI/AAAAAAAAGzI/DkcYvo_m1Pk5_Fmr6IOBFWwn5MbQqZ6CACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026171210777" id="blogsy-1509064620582.7236" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Just outside Marsalforn, the island's largest beach resort, where we took a swim on a warm late October day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">(Maybe you've noticed the marsa in Marsaxlokk and Marsalforn and, indeed, Marseille, Arabic for "harbor.") </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ixoKTjVVb4U/WfJMjk8LH4I/AAAAAAAAGyU/vaTc9u81yWQpsNyaZ_OGgGiKNaFW4zxaQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026165812580" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ixoKTjVVb4U/WfJMjk8LH4I/AAAAAAAAGyU/vaTc9u81yWQpsNyaZ_OGgGiKNaFW4zxaQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026165812580" id="blogsy-1509064620646.4277" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">While you hold that thought, Gozo is also the site of more of those Stone Age temples. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oCZ6h59Lz-c/WfJMlTNtUdI/AAAAAAAAGyY/0nO4QoKBuQMBqBbJEe41iJxogz2KgrO3wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026165812584" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oCZ6h59Lz-c/WfJMlTNtUdI/AAAAAAAAGyY/0nO4QoKBuQMBqBbJEe41iJxogz2KgrO3wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026165812584" id="blogsy-1509064620616.1643" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Ggigantija Temples were the most famous of the temple sites and were on the grand tour for many in the 18th and early 19th centuries and were depicted in a number of paintings. Unfortunately, they were destroyed by thoughtlessness by 1840 and archeologists have had to use those paintings to reconstruct what the Temples looked like. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PxCFBiVy6Ps/WfJMm52ItBI/AAAAAAAAGyc/Og52ls4EGv4Hdyq1PB2mo5igyttZkfirQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026165812588" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PxCFBiVy6Ps/WfJMm52ItBI/AAAAAAAAGyc/Og52ls4EGv4Hdyq1PB2mo5igyttZkfirQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026165812588" id="blogsy-1509064620590.0962" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">However, Ggigantija has a wonderful museum with a treasure trove of Neolithic art from the site and nearby ones. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FlXr-9oH5oA/WfJMohQmPaI/AAAAAAAAGyg/D5UFdDFkNs4hFQazs42e0GYM8EWlKJRjACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026165812592" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FlXr-9oH5oA/WfJMohQmPaI/AAAAAAAAGyg/D5UFdDFkNs4hFQazs42e0GYM8EWlKJRjACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026165812592" id="blogsy-1509064620651.7598" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cuhXWWix95Q/WfJMsBCLSdI/AAAAAAAAGyo/2OYiKSCVSZczIvAYWXBlWRddEXgiA2sJQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026165812601" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cuhXWWix95Q/WfJMsBCLSdI/AAAAAAAAGyo/2OYiKSCVSZczIvAYWXBlWRddEXgiA2sJQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026165812601" id="blogsy-1509064620604.8518" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We were impressed with the artistry and skill of the craftsmen working in stone and clay</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hfCBfLnIZRs/WfJMqP7wlRI/AAAAAAAAGyk/Btd6f5AlkvgZyT2_I_nbhUNaQ2CyE8ooQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026165812596" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hfCBfLnIZRs/WfJMqP7wlRI/AAAAAAAAGyk/Btd6f5AlkvgZyT2_I_nbhUNaQ2CyE8ooQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026165812596" id="blogsy-1509064620658.0986" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And cow toe bones (these are really very small). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BzjTZb-yE-0/WfJR1oAk1gI/AAAAAAAAGzY/UE0YulnsD8g9IJMu3uNmLXNu5154-Z8bgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026172020513" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BzjTZb-yE-0/WfJR1oAk1gI/AAAAAAAAGzY/UE0YulnsD8g9IJMu3uNmLXNu5154-Z8bgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026172020513" id="blogsy-1509064620658.4165" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Having held that thought about harbors, you'll recall that Valletta is on a peninsula between two natural harbors (very large ones), the Grand Harbor and Marsamxett. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fWCDJsSJ-GI/WfJ7UotholI/AAAAAAAAG0o/TIcJtNEwlIkngEaST3_zbycD-Bo4WArOgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026201813407" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fWCDJsSJ-GI/WfJ7UotholI/AAAAAAAAG0o/TIcJtNEwlIkngEaST3_zbycD-Bo4WArOgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026201813407" id="blogsy-1509064620660.425" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Across the Marsamxett is the resort town of Sliema and all of the outfits happy to take you out for a cruise in the waters around Malta. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9NXb8HMK6yM/WfJVUHTIXiI/AAAAAAAAG0A/SZOcKJ8M7iwPC7KilPc-idANWCD59sn_gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026173352969" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9NXb8HMK6yM/WfJVUHTIXiI/AAAAAAAAG0A/SZOcKJ8M7iwPC7KilPc-idANWCD59sn_gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026173352969" id="blogsy-1509064620613.1052" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Across the Grand Harbor</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NqclabXiG8E/WfJVU7M0cNI/AAAAAAAAG0E/qR0OxzE4bM0_KXGSVOfa5GtYk7AB45xUwCHMYCw/s1089/Photo%2B20171026173352973" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NqclabXiG8E/WfJVU7M0cNI/AAAAAAAAG0E/qR0OxzE4bM0_KXGSVOfa5GtYk7AB45xUwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026173352973" id="blogsy-1509064620573.4111" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="699"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Are lots of history</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WCNUHw6rxJI/WfJVWYFBkcI/AAAAAAAAG0I/BV5VJ6o243wuxGGs2vSvGiXGvP49w8cbACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026173352964" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WCNUHw6rxJI/WfJVWYFBkcI/AAAAAAAAG0I/BV5VJ6o243wuxGGs2vSvGiXGvP49w8cbACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026173352964" id="blogsy-1509064620656.8955" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3xSfsIMcmdI/WfJVYHRH8LI/AAAAAAAAG0M/m8SXTZHVy9w4gcDCJozTR2iEzOXEceMsACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026173352978" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3xSfsIMcmdI/WfJVYHRH8LI/AAAAAAAAG0M/m8SXTZHVy9w4gcDCJozTR2iEzOXEceMsACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026173352978" id="blogsy-1509064620602.5645" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8_i5ufCkdCk/WfJVZyKMGEI/AAAAAAAAG0Q/GbjCWteHVAEH0JJqymo73W5Kzn3i8gB1QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026173352961" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8_i5ufCkdCk/WfJVZyKMGEI/AAAAAAAAG0Q/GbjCWteHVAEH0JJqymo73W5Kzn3i8gB1QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026173352961" id="blogsy-1509064620570.8533" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And ship building, ship repair, and waterways clogged with every manner of ship. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2Jaeabk83vM/WfJ_oNocYMI/AAAAAAAAG1M/rLDQfTlKce0VAR4im6fJo-I6shsoKjWOwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171026203619227" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2Jaeabk83vM/WfJ_oNocYMI/AAAAAAAAG1M/rLDQfTlKce0VAR4im6fJo-I6shsoKjWOwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171026203619227" id="blogsy-1509064620622.5676" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, as everywhere, it's the people now living in a place that make it unique and give you a lasting impression. The shop assistant drawn to work in Valletta by the opportunity of work, but missing her home in Catania, Sicily. The retired banker on his way home after a break from hectic and stressful Malta on Gozo. The Gozo man who loves his life there but also relies on the ferry to see his doctor. And, the sobering reminder in the car bomb murder of a Maltese journalist that the world we value is a fragile one and that it takes courage to resist the temptation to acquiesce in the silence that protects greed and corruption. That's also the lesson earlier related to us by someone in Sicily who told us of his change of heart in deciding not to leave Sicily after all when the people determined to take the streets back from the mafia. The world is a tumultuous place. We can only hope to find more beauty than not in it and to contribute a bit of that beauty ourselves. </div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-2362779494030221742017-10-22T01:18:00.000-07:002017-10-22T01:18:49.607-07:00Food. What Else?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSAQGbN5xegop08tOYl8W0cx0_LUEE2vjzIcopQNQz78rQdu1Q2MlTtiv71fJ8azlxb6R8XCkesXIDoA7YnB3Y9siFqP7l5X7bnuwOsoO6PbhlrE_a51eSUMiADpT_4XS-wYenpngJ_tV/s2016/Photo+20171021164036730" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSAQGbN5xegop08tOYl8W0cx0_LUEE2vjzIcopQNQz78rQdu1Q2MlTtiv71fJ8azlxb6R8XCkesXIDoA7YnB3Y9siFqP7l5X7bnuwOsoO6PbhlrE_a51eSUMiADpT_4XS-wYenpngJ_tV/s500/Photo+20171021164036730" id="blogsy-1508657561977.2903" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There isn't much that people care more about than food. It helps define them and is filled with significance, for family and the memories of childhood and of good times with friends. To an outsider, of course, people's attachment to a particular food can seem puzzling. We stopped by a grocer and butcher on the way to Etna to pick up some outstanding sandwiches. While we were waiting, the butcher insisted on sharing one of his (and the region's) specialities. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FttytAAcUR8/WetdTwZ0arI/AAAAAAAAGo0/kEKQcc_xXpAe9OiMSh3z0v0KsF9o7HDgwCHMYCw/s2016/Photo%2B20171021164036759" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FttytAAcUR8/WetdTwZ0arI/AAAAAAAAGo0/kEKQcc_xXpAe9OiMSh3z0v0KsF9o7HDgwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021164036759" id="blogsy-1508657562052.5383" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Outside on the sidewalk, a fire continuously simmered the pork for frittole (pronounced like the snack food brand).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ERgpZhwrnUU/Wetr0Y7T7QI/AAAAAAAAGpM/k-zbEBWJjAs-2c24yQEGQ4IOTavXWSYNgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021173817046" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ERgpZhwrnUU/Wetr0Y7T7QI/AAAAAAAAGpM/k-zbEBWJjAs-2c24yQEGQ4IOTavXWSYNgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021173817046" id="blogsy-1508657561986.9697" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To us, it would best be described as a pork fat sandwich. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o3cz2-bdBxg/WewKuNpNhuI/AAAAAAAAGpg/JmOeJufbwA0M8C2eN2RY2RUZWKyNxbZeQCHMYCw/s2016/Photo%2B20171022050407911" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o3cz2-bdBxg/WewKuNpNhuI/AAAAAAAAGpg/JmOeJufbwA0M8C2eN2RY2RUZWKyNxbZeQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022050407911" id="blogsy-1508657561994.4087" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Or, a great moment with our guide Davide and a welcoming butcher. In fact, throughout Sicily, we found people to be - with few exceptions - very open and warm. It was not unusual for someone to go out of his or her way to be helpful and friendly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><em>A note on street food: Yes, glorious street food. That's what frittole is and Sicily has plenty of it. Some other ones we tried were arancina (filled and fried rice balls), panelle (chickpea fritters), crocché (potato croquets) and gelato con brioche (see below). We didn't try the spleen sandwiches, thanks just the same!</em></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y62MBos3ZAU/WewO2-YVQtI/AAAAAAAAGps/ALtQDZeVXXA3wHg-G1hMK8saP4pgDN-VQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022052037660" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y62MBos3ZAU/WewO2-YVQtI/AAAAAAAAGps/ALtQDZeVXXA3wHg-G1hMK8saP4pgDN-VQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022052037660" id="blogsy-1508657562059.9407" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">One of our most memorable meals was in Selinunte, at a place called Boomerang (for some obscure reason). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbeno9bHCBOB6E8axR3l9Cuvpg8vNDCMDUQDkYHqLdJbsmdGlNuddfuVWIdCX86aXo9TB56cm8V2Lb5ZSCxIfbQhLRUbYJGx0q2JLUSROWsiYVOHyRKVcQc_TZcYTIoMmcZl3LBVHOFs30/s2048/Photo+20171022052037657" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbeno9bHCBOB6E8axR3l9Cuvpg8vNDCMDUQDkYHqLdJbsmdGlNuddfuVWIdCX86aXo9TB56cm8V2Lb5ZSCxIfbQhLRUbYJGx0q2JLUSROWsiYVOHyRKVcQc_TZcYTIoMmcZl3LBVHOFs30/s500/Photo+20171022052037657" id="blogsy-1508657562013.1355" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Sorry for the half-eaten plate. We decided a little late to document the meal. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZomDpEZe_mA/WewO7MjYjEI/AAAAAAAAGp0/TB2ddgqD5joWfznO847h9SPo-B58PQaGgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022052037652" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZomDpEZe_mA/WewO7MjYjEI/AAAAAAAAGp0/TB2ddgqD5joWfznO847h9SPo-B58PQaGgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022052037652" id="blogsy-1508657562046.8706" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's a place with a fixed menu. Everyone gets the same thing, whatever the owner brought in that day on his fishing boat</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q7LIqIz6Ybk/WewO8q0bsKI/AAAAAAAAGp4/v9qALh62t8U1BlkKjgv-M16qWQpFjyXeQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022052037647" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q7LIqIz6Ybk/WewO8q0bsKI/AAAAAAAAGp4/v9qALh62t8U1BlkKjgv-M16qWQpFjyXeQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022052037647" id="blogsy-1508657561998.6042" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The fish just kept coming, with a quick identification. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOf5wM4LQrM/WewO-ploBMI/AAAAAAAAGp8/vf0sSZ5dHL4qJ4qPWZZ7wcXCu7OhR9uLwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022052037638" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOf5wM4LQrM/WewO-ploBMI/AAAAAAAAGp8/vf0sSZ5dHL4qJ4qPWZZ7wcXCu7OhR9uLwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022052037638" id="blogsy-1508657562065.4739" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">All of it was perfectly prepared and delicious,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pdC8hAjywVg/WewRMB31SSI/AAAAAAAAGqI/I6qGZOrYDCsRC8wODpMrUYu9PeGy80e-wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022053133862" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pdC8hAjywVg/WewRMB31SSI/AAAAAAAAGqI/I6qGZOrYDCsRC8wODpMrUYu9PeGy80e-wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022053133862" id="blogsy-1508657562069.4783" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">As were the very good cannoli that topped it off. [Our all time favorite cannoli (after substantial sampling across Sicily) remain the ones from Cipolli Cannoli in Collingswood, NJ, where the cannoli kits are created fresh before your eyes in their tiny operation.]</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O4LACPzViss/WewT-mm4WnI/AAAAAAAAGqY/CtWkapP1AGEHY2dPTyHXEkFgfsYtjUKEwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171022054338886" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O4LACPzViss/WewT-mm4WnI/AAAAAAAAGqY/CtWkapP1AGEHY2dPTyHXEkFgfsYtjUKEwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171022054338886" id="blogsy-1508657562013.1519" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Of course, cannoli aren't the only canonical sweet treat in Sicily. The thing to eat in Palermo is gelato on a brioche. But, gelato all over Sicily is hard to beat, and we seldom resisted. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4o_x9IKzerk/WexJkp3lzJI/AAAAAAAAGqw/qi1hBek5Lh4aQY7xNed5z30XJse8ZZiuwCHMYCw/s320/Photo%2B20171022093219191" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4o_x9IKzerk/WexJkp3lzJI/AAAAAAAAGqw/qi1hBek5Lh4aQY7xNed5z30XJse8ZZiuwCHMYCw/s320/Photo%2B20171022093219191" id="blogsy-1508657561996.8293" class="alignnone" alt="" width="240" height="320"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The gelato in Valletta on Malta (spoiler alert) may be more artistically refined, but the quality in Sicily is unsurpassed. </div>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-847574914060358702017-10-21T06:17:00.000-07:002017-10-21T06:17:17.796-07:00Etna, Alcantara, & the Vendicari Nature Reserve<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nlvrTElH7SA/WeojzkmbBNI/AAAAAAAAGlA/LQNaY7wSfvErWK5QH-fSxil9LpQK7HIPQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314363" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nlvrTElH7SA/WeojzkmbBNI/AAAAAAAAGlA/LQNaY7wSfvErWK5QH-fSxil9LpQK7HIPQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314363" id="blogsy-1508591212193.1233" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Mount Etna in some senses helps to define Sicily. It dominates the landscape over a vast terrain. It doesn't have that iconic volcano profile like Mount Fuji, but has currently six active volcanic craters within it and a range of other craters and vents over a substantial area.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M56uUU5qDlY/WeokTGYCKvI/AAAAAAAAGlI/4cy5rvWRABkrqBAj9lBBYeiFeiewZZl0gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314355" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M56uUU5qDlY/WeokTGYCKvI/AAAAAAAAGlI/4cy5rvWRABkrqBAj9lBBYeiFeiewZZl0gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314355" id="blogsy-1508591212196.5366" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It has frequent eruptions and flows of lava, although they are much slower moving than some other volcanos so that it is a less dangerous volcano than many. Here is an area of lava flow from 2002. The depth of the lava at this point is about 10 to 15 meters. What looks like snow stakes are, in fact, snow stakes. There is a ski resort nearby. It was destroyed by the lava flow and has been rebuilt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-31gozDFgp8Q/Weok3oKCwTI/AAAAAAAAGlQ/8sj0-gGlnK03bBwI-6FK7mzfhTL9lnPpwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314368" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-31gozDFgp8Q/Weok3oKCwTI/AAAAAAAAGlQ/8sj0-gGlnK03bBwI-6FK7mzfhTL9lnPpwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314368" id="blogsy-1508591212224.9448" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gHvCstsDQCc/WeolbVdYWsI/AAAAAAAAGlc/0dkToNRQNK0y8RV7jmoA3bhVAdEcZcfPQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314371" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gHvCstsDQCc/WeolbVdYWsI/AAAAAAAAGlc/0dkToNRQNK0y8RV7jmoA3bhVAdEcZcfPQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314371" id="blogsy-1508591212193.9917" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">As can be seen in the middle distance, lava will flow around higher terrain, leaving swaths of untouched land. Of course, the edges of the untouched land are scorched by the tremendous heat causing vegetation to die off.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HpQcI7P8vyo/WeomIORSDKI/AAAAAAAAGlk/TCqDiw-Gw-gJ8Zk2iOK_lq4LQR9ezhOvACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314375" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HpQcI7P8vyo/WeomIORSDKI/AAAAAAAAGlk/TCqDiw-Gw-gJ8Zk2iOK_lq4LQR9ezhOvACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314375" id="blogsy-1508591212284.1812" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There are different kinds of tubes within lava. Here's one that was formed by a tree trunk.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v9j0Si2jTmk/WeommsNgM9I/AAAAAAAAGls/qJ8PexhM-VQB0L8C-eixDm_9s5oqiCEPQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314379" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v9j0Si2jTmk/WeommsNgM9I/AAAAAAAAGls/qJ8PexhM-VQB0L8C-eixDm_9s5oqiCEPQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314379" id="blogsy-1508591212288.3987" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Two older, dormant craters are in the distance.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KZONw-fLpzc/WeonCaRwcoI/AAAAAAAAGl4/40WgJB7KXvMJrLegQ4QDezxpWetCVDQ5QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314384" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KZONw-fLpzc/WeonCaRwcoI/AAAAAAAAGl4/40WgJB7KXvMJrLegQ4QDezxpWetCVDQ5QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314384" id="blogsy-1508591212224.01" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CKxcP6Ad9ME/Weoni5KxvwI/AAAAAAAAGl8/Y85F-HYS1Y85zNsX62MvFP9X5DTZuA0KwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171020182314387" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CKxcP6Ad9ME/Weoni5KxvwI/AAAAAAAAGl8/Y85F-HYS1Y85zNsX62MvFP9X5DTZuA0KwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171020182314387" id="blogsy-1508591212246.4722" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The "ash" put out by a volcano consists of various sizes, weights and densities of material, ranging from dust to "lava bombs" (near right) that make quite a dent when they land.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OhlEmlpoQE0/Wes2YHj2B0I/AAAAAAAAGmQ/3Pt3p8GH0HM6r1uOLLJg4nDd8_cVVcaQACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021135429670" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OhlEmlpoQE0/Wes2YHj2B0I/AAAAAAAAGmQ/3Pt3p8GH0HM6r1uOLLJg4nDd8_cVVcaQACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021135429670" id="blogsy-1508591212210.2456" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">As we descended to a lower altitude, the vegetation changed from pines to birch and broom (the Italian term meaning "rock breaker"). The birch is a species unique to the Etna area. It was nice to have a former Park Ranger as our guide for a better understanding of what we were seeing. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17enXHxZoudjpA-bTpplvqr3BY1lNuF7if51spbYUQem1IzYr1RUFXPtCnN0cxWhvc6D4z4dja5vIK1rANWEPPTUO4hVtI_wqKvNLCxYqL9-tmt-jre9LBnHfBidmQ-kD5N5z3YFHTDp5/s2048/Photo+20171021140622207" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17enXHxZoudjpA-bTpplvqr3BY1lNuF7if51spbYUQem1IzYr1RUFXPtCnN0cxWhvc6D4z4dja5vIK1rANWEPPTUO4hVtI_wqKvNLCxYqL9-tmt-jre9LBnHfBidmQ-kD5N5z3YFHTDp5/s500/Photo+20171021140622207" id="blogsy-1508591212233.9424" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Donning helmets to explore a lava tube turned out to be a good idea. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-crmBHCNDjnY/Wes2bKT1lxI/AAAAAAAAGmU/xMRxAWzG5gsJiS-s6t-_2zbO4EBA_VQMwCHMYCw/s320/Photo%2B20171021135429684" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-crmBHCNDjnY/Wes2bKT1lxI/AAAAAAAAGmU/xMRxAWzG5gsJiS-s6t-_2zbO4EBA_VQMwCHMYCw/s320/Photo%2B20171021135429684" id="blogsy-1508591212232.0999" class="alignnone" alt="" width="240" height="320"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vFgO2Vh8Bpo/Wes5y9CRjrI/AAAAAAAAGms/rcvOaIuraIcEN_5q8KG3Os0A2hI94JdWgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021140622212" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vFgO2Vh8Bpo/Wes5y9CRjrI/AAAAAAAAGms/rcvOaIuraIcEN_5q8KG3Os0A2hI94JdWgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021140622212" id="blogsy-1508591212244.5537" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The tubes were formed when a hotter stream of lava flowed through lava starting to cool. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RiDSiGsGPTM/Wes6JPUaqAI/AAAAAAAAGmw/zpl29aukynoOgSpNRk_UEcXu9sJqKTJJgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021140622221" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RiDSiGsGPTM/Wes6JPUaqAI/AAAAAAAAGmw/zpl29aukynoOgSpNRk_UEcXu9sJqKTJJgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021140622221" id="blogsy-1508591212221.2754" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zg9BpGf_aFk/Wes6hFEqaqI/AAAAAAAAGm4/HXEp79oJHSYXPloZWdmqE8HrWMUyuBCFQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021140622231" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zg9BpGf_aFk/Wes6hFEqaqI/AAAAAAAAGm4/HXEp79oJHSYXPloZWdmqE8HrWMUyuBCFQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021140622231" id="blogsy-1508591212217.1824" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The particular tube we explored was used to store snow over the summer and the steps were carved into the lava to make this easier in the 1770s. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7K2pxPzHYqM/Wes-ZxIFBqI/AAAAAAAAGnY/qAEb7dfx2_YKfSi9v2P22SzDjcUal_OHwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021142956792" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7K2pxPzHYqM/Wes-ZxIFBqI/AAAAAAAAGnY/qAEb7dfx2_YKfSi9v2P22SzDjcUal_OHwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021142956792" id="blogsy-1508591212246.897" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Not far from Etna is a river gorge famous for rafting. Our guide had found a remote spot that offered a quiet way to enjoy the Alcantara Gorge. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HHIgIUKsDJw/Wes9J604o4I/AAAAAAAAGnI/FHf7qULv798ap6zUNu66TCzf7AD6m0ZDQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021142233968" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HHIgIUKsDJw/Wes9J604o4I/AAAAAAAAGnI/FHf7qULv798ap6zUNu66TCzf7AD6m0ZDQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021142233968" id="blogsy-1508591212241.044" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The bored hole appears to be a post hole for a bridge from Ottoman times. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b4e1NaUd3aE/Wes9qUHWFSI/AAAAAAAAGnM/zVBDCq7jHNQGac9-53ON5hto6neqzpyLwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021142233972" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b4e1NaUd3aE/Wes9qUHWFSI/AAAAAAAAGnM/zVBDCq7jHNQGac9-53ON5hto6neqzpyLwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021142233972" id="blogsy-1508591212209.395" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In winter, the gorge is full to the brim with its swift flowing river. If the day was any warmer, we would have stopped to go in the water. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d4kLd4fm8G4/WetAx9BLiZI/AAAAAAAAGno/pgZOqg8OHjcRkbxz8g7Xde1fbm1C8GIfQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021144025236" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d4kLd4fm8G4/WetAx9BLiZI/AAAAAAAAGno/pgZOqg8OHjcRkbxz8g7Xde1fbm1C8GIfQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021144025236" id="blogsy-1508591212240.8352" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="357"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Back in Taormina, taking the cable car down to the beach, Ken took advantage of the Mediterranean. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yDB3sUPzthE/Wes3DMHscVI/AAAAAAAAGmc/434gf9hDhHorLBAgdgJ6CJC0U83dMpMtwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021135429679" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yDB3sUPzthE/Wes3DMHscVI/AAAAAAAAGmc/434gf9hDhHorLBAgdgJ6CJC0U83dMpMtwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021135429679" id="blogsy-1508591212306.9668" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">With a farewell to Taormina, we headed down the coast</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-40Og5pa6DGA/WetEQA4a5KI/AAAAAAAAGn8/eyzWqWwUr3EA59NogEuUbA7oRXAq_bksACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021145053178" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-40Og5pa6DGA/WetEQA4a5KI/AAAAAAAAGn8/eyzWqWwUr3EA59NogEuUbA7oRXAq_bksACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021145053178" id="blogsy-1508591212230.6152" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To Vendicari Nature Preserve</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K0kzPUUt-PU/WetFAlCAvlI/AAAAAAAAGoE/napC8Zz-JrcNodtzEW76I_EN_Ij6hjITgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021145053187" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K0kzPUUt-PU/WetFAlCAvlI/AAAAAAAAGoE/napC8Zz-JrcNodtzEW76I_EN_Ij6hjITgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021145053187" id="blogsy-1508591212237.2834" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">For a walk </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kCyOI_R6VxM/WetFendV6gI/AAAAAAAAGoI/H8zxUsi2kbo6HkN4-9w5srfE_9Se0yPSQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021145053198" target="_blank"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kCyOI_R6VxM/WetFendV6gI/AAAAAAAAGoI/H8zxUsi2kbo6HkN4-9w5srfE_9Se0yPSQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021145053198" id="blogsy-1508591212291.1907" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A chance to admire herons and flamingos and some spoonbills scurrying through the water chasing their lunch</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ao3XJki624Y/WetGXl6w5UI/AAAAAAAAGoc/jIL9WMbOgfwru99HuURvgKqnJ1X9ixGhgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171021145053207" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ao3XJki624Y/WetGXl6w5UI/AAAAAAAAGoc/jIL9WMbOgfwru99HuURvgKqnJ1X9ixGhgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171021145053207" id="blogsy-1508591212308.6494" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And our own downtime on the beach. </div>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-77021857244531223932017-10-16T12:29:00.000-07:002017-10-16T12:29:37.505-07:00The Greek and Roman Worlds (and More) in Sicily<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><em>Greek civilization was a culture, not a geography, and Sicily was where much of that culture was found, although the Greeks typically displaced non-Greek people who were already there. Today, there is a lot to see that has been unearthed from those times and from when Sicily was the granary of the Roman Empire, as well as a tremendous wealth of architecture from medieval times.</em></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><strong>SEGESTA</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRMxvuzqo7mW96xN1yx0bH_Qp6AM911SqHMlL5y9ybhFSuLLTakcXJaJiweznCnZv4BbdUPYmTI8QsXnKCnzwY9fyDx5EUEkWz4i3mYCvBgOepwKYrjExc97NfW7Ujoyi7N4Ci6GH-21C5/s2048/Photo+20171012170318824" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRMxvuzqo7mW96xN1yx0bH_Qp6AM911SqHMlL5y9ybhFSuLLTakcXJaJiweznCnZv4BbdUPYmTI8QsXnKCnzwY9fyDx5EUEkWz4i3mYCvBgOepwKYrjExc97NfW7Ujoyi7N4Ci6GH-21C5/s500/Photo+20171012170318824" id="blogsy-1508180490403.7292" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Here's an amphitheater in Segesta, originally a city founded by the non-Greek Elymian people but taken over by Greeks. We enjoyed the impromptu serenade by a group of school children.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZXyvnMPA1ww/Wd-FlmPy_fI/AAAAAAAAGcM/HJBLJIn2YIMrdfgkkAm5NiwS8EMBmbnCwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012170318847" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZXyvnMPA1ww/Wd-FlmPy_fI/AAAAAAAAGcM/HJBLJIn2YIMrdfgkkAm5NiwS8EMBmbnCwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012170318847" id="blogsy-1508180490398.9465" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And, the temple was just down the hill, actually really far down the hill. We gave ourselves the luxury of taking the shuttle bus up the hill and then down again. (This photo was taken with our biggest telephoto lens.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bo2PygXY4lE/Wd-NX4N5u2I/AAAAAAAAGc8/_2zQp3-fk-cVCCguOCc_RJjyMGI5fK20wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012173819095" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bo2PygXY4lE/Wd-NX4N5u2I/AAAAAAAAGc8/_2zQp3-fk-cVCCguOCc_RJjyMGI5fK20wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012173819095" id="blogsy-1508180490354.158" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><em>Yes, indeed, those ancient Mediterranean civilizations tended to build in the most inaccessible locations. They were generally well out of harms way on the top of mountains so as to defend from attack. Those were tough times! Fortunately, we can now take things like cable cars to make the climb less arduous. This one goes from the resort town of Trapani up to the town of Erice. The watery fields by the sea are for processing sea salt.</em></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><strong>ERICE</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VCwIEl73wVw/Wd-GAWUfjKI/AAAAAAAAGcU/tmipAzvYkHE2CJa6eEyf2e5H6xo0xyLagCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012170318853" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VCwIEl73wVw/Wd-GAWUfjKI/AAAAAAAAGcU/tmipAzvYkHE2CJa6eEyf2e5H6xo0xyLagCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012170318853" id="blogsy-1508180490380.8914" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">One amazing place after another.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Xdi_8Okslw/Wd-GhA4efkI/AAAAAAAAGcc/LX0uZDWbZfMglmH5BswagMiUc8bpwAPjwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012170318859" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Xdi_8Okslw/Wd-GhA4efkI/AAAAAAAAGcc/LX0uZDWbZfMglmH5BswagMiUc8bpwAPjwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012170318859" id="blogsy-1508180490411.929" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This Norman Castle was built on the location of the Temple of Venus reputedly founded by Aeneas and where animals simply walked up to be sacrificed. (That last one may be a stretch.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VfV3ufYwT5A/Wd-GzjIGnrI/AAAAAAAAGcg/6UkGvUHlw0Ue6DvYPkOoVdvylrRJDYoVQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012170318866" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VfV3ufYwT5A/Wd-GzjIGnrI/AAAAAAAAGcg/6UkGvUHlw0Ue6DvYPkOoVdvylrRJDYoVQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012170318866" id="blogsy-1508180490424.6726" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This 3rd to 4th century BC wall at the Temple of Venus site is said by tradition to have been built by Dedalus, the builder of the labyrinth on Crete to contain the Minotaur. We're not sure how to fact check that one either. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jxaLgID6ev0/Wd-IU3V2grI/AAAAAAAAGcs/GTmswNQEG40RNq6UZnc2uTux_uru4IxOQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012170318875" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jxaLgID6ev0/Wd-IU3V2grI/AAAAAAAAGcs/GTmswNQEG40RNq6UZnc2uTux_uru4IxOQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012170318875" id="blogsy-1508180490395.277" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dkB-h81j9Ec/Wd_HUnTuj1I/AAAAAAAAGd0/bmBTNF4yvwgxi5rQxcemIf84feZucifagCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012214902080" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dkB-h81j9Ec/Wd_HUnTuj1I/AAAAAAAAGd0/bmBTNF4yvwgxi5rQxcemIf84feZucifagCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012214902080" id="blogsy-1508180490409.124" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Founded by the Elymians, then settled by the Phoenicians and then the Greeks, Erice is now mostly a Medieval town. It also has a little pastry shop the B&B owner from Palermo sent us to where they make a Genovese filled with creme fraisch after a recipe from the nuns and only sold there. It was worth the search. Delicious.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><strong>SELINUNTE</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AuTzchOA1o0/Wd-NyMt6nJI/AAAAAAAAGdA/xT2o9K9NOJU9pOjiZaWlWa5eZFmWVT6GACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012173819055" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AuTzchOA1o0/Wd-NyMt6nJI/AAAAAAAAGdA/xT2o9K9NOJU9pOjiZaWlWa5eZFmWVT6GACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012173819055" id="blogsy-1508180490359.2495" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This is the largest archeological site in Europe. Selinunte was a Greek colony founded in the late 7th century BC according to Thucydides. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_ve719b-3tQ/Wd-OPedtWfI/AAAAAAAAGdE/DItJk4rWEdAcet9QdYRUJ0KewasbZXVGACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012173819064" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_ve719b-3tQ/Wd-OPedtWfI/AAAAAAAAGdE/DItJk4rWEdAcet9QdYRUJ0KewasbZXVGACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012173819064" id="blogsy-1508180490435.743" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">What's remarkable are the piles upon piles - vast areas - of what looks like rubble and is what has been unearthed in recent centuries, only for archeologists to work out what it was and to reassemble portions of it for us to admire and wonder at the scope and scale of the structures that once stood on the landscape and formed cities for these peoples to live in.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nVoEjXiu8UE/Wd-OgABDtBI/AAAAAAAAGdM/euUwwQwrky0wHDsAZdZykfHC8Vk9VRvUgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012173819070" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nVoEjXiu8UE/Wd-OgABDtBI/AAAAAAAAGdM/euUwwQwrky0wHDsAZdZykfHC8Vk9VRvUgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012173819070" id="blogsy-1508180490472.2544" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Selinunte had been a relatively large city of about 30,000 free people, plus slaves. There were five temples centered on an Acropolis.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J7_OxIQZdSM/Wd-O8PFwvWI/AAAAAAAAGdQ/UOkdcQCWaCgTTo3ZJ8zcdja92MrMQpgFgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012173819079" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J7_OxIQZdSM/Wd-O8PFwvWI/AAAAAAAAGdQ/UOkdcQCWaCgTTo3ZJ8zcdja92MrMQpgFgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012173819079" id="blogsy-1508180490465.4133" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">They were in constant conflict with the Elymians of Segesta until Selinunte was sacked by Carthage in the 4th century BC when they didn't choose sides wisely. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dHYBWm8BE88/Wd-PWbpmdNI/AAAAAAAAGdY/l9hjVOXzniY-S9S34mN0RmWn4tmV8sAxQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171012173819090" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dHYBWm8BE88/Wd-PWbpmdNI/AAAAAAAAGdY/l9hjVOXzniY-S9S34mN0RmWn4tmV8sAxQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171012173819090" id="blogsy-1508180490537.652" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And, never regained their stature or strength. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><strong>AGRIGENTO</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IZwyBVz35Lk/WeJLDxih7JI/AAAAAAAAGek/5wTxBDoaTDMWQKBZgYaiRUWp590tU7qIwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193505801" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IZwyBVz35Lk/WeJLDxih7JI/AAAAAAAAGek/5wTxBDoaTDMWQKBZgYaiRUWp590tU7qIwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193505801" id="blogsy-1508180490500.6045" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Agrigento was another large Greek city of around 100,000 to 200,000 people founded in 580 BC that tried to stay out of the conflict between Athens and Syracuse. However, they didn't avoid sack by Carthage in 406 BC or getting the worst of it when Carthage and Rome went at it in the First Punic War when Rome enslaved all the inhabitants around 260 BC. (Then, back to Carthage, then Rome, until their citizens were given Roman citizenship after the death of Julius Caesar in 44 BC. Phew, too much history!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3AwQfrs3ZUM/WeJLF59ipbI/AAAAAAAAGeo/p6BqeMhm2gwQ9w0ZgO0yXZVDJd4ZO3piwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193505809" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3AwQfrs3ZUM/WeJLF59ipbI/AAAAAAAAGeo/p6BqeMhm2gwQ9w0ZgO0yXZVDJd4ZO3piwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193505809" id="blogsy-1508180490489.888" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B5xBCLXzyCA/WeJLIN6CqPI/AAAAAAAAGes/jR8zNkg-RFMPDZO5yxo8c8jLspRoT1aVACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193505817" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B5xBCLXzyCA/WeJLIN6CqPI/AAAAAAAAGes/jR8zNkg-RFMPDZO5yxo8c8jLspRoT1aVACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193505817" id="blogsy-1508180490492.8486" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-576Q6d0ETYk/WeJLJ55potI/AAAAAAAAGew/m_IW0O2VkM0dro6iWiztcOYjYR9UxN6nwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193505825" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-576Q6d0ETYk/WeJLJ55potI/AAAAAAAAGew/m_IW0O2VkM0dro6iWiztcOYjYR9UxN6nwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193505825" id="blogsy-1508180490556.1724" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The reassembled temples were truly monumental.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjALGnn1CBH1ETb3u1-39Xg9pqdhbKmPBrjHNKwuHtEG1mhow6OsesI8xmslOMKH0cHuurtEzTHnUaS5pRiEayF0uBwOReZeEmJHVWT01G678do2x4Q2ElkseTRJnz9LP5vm7lpK5V92kFM/s2048/Photo+20171014193505830" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjALGnn1CBH1ETb3u1-39Xg9pqdhbKmPBrjHNKwuHtEG1mhow6OsesI8xmslOMKH0cHuurtEzTHnUaS5pRiEayF0uBwOReZeEmJHVWT01G678do2x4Q2ElkseTRJnz9LP5vm7lpK5V92kFM/s500/Photo+20171014193505830" id="blogsy-1508180490623.9736" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And, again, the piles of rubble spoke to the archeological work still to be done.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GNqez18pO8M/WeJLNoPnWmI/AAAAAAAAGe4/qoyS8zSHTEoLDQfmnVli-070x1-YvX5ygCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193505836" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GNqez18pO8M/WeJLNoPnWmI/AAAAAAAAGe4/qoyS8zSHTEoLDQfmnVli-070x1-YvX5ygCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193505836" id="blogsy-1508180490587.5688" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Meanwhile, in the Archeological Museum in Agrigento there is an impressive collection of artifact with ample English language signage. Here's a 7th Century BC ceramic piece notable for both for being in a style established on Rhodes and for the central motif. It's the triquetra or triskeles, a symbol evoking Sicily because the island is essentially triangular in shape with three substantial capes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GXpXIn9m3Vc/WeJLQE-e_RI/AAAAAAAAGe8/H7_tShk_DvQz2NoluMARMYomKDMnBD9DgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193541785" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GXpXIn9m3Vc/WeJLQE-e_RI/AAAAAAAAGe8/H7_tShk_DvQz2NoluMARMYomKDMnBD9DgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193541785" id="blogsy-1508180490548.857" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A few segments of one of these enormous human figures is laying on the ground at the archeological park, difficult to decipher in the field.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R_qIgsEW2Oc/WeJLR3OnWDI/AAAAAAAAGfA/9ax89-KmojQax89N75ux7NsY36scxtezgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193541795" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R_qIgsEW2Oc/WeJLR3OnWDI/AAAAAAAAGfA/9ax89-KmojQax89N75ux7NsY36scxtezgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193541795" id="blogsy-1508180490567.9458" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">With an imposing head.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JGNxyhfUHW8/WeJLTwlTUGI/AAAAAAAAGfE/JlTcnpGLUUEo9YlSgPq3L_WlNgC-z77BgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171014193541792" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JGNxyhfUHW8/WeJLTwlTUGI/AAAAAAAAGfE/JlTcnpGLUUEo9YlSgPq3L_WlNgC-z77BgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171014193541792" id="blogsy-1508180490598.0496" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">All of which becomes a lot clearer when you see the model helpfully provided by the museum.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">PIAZZA ARMERINA</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZWxREzrqVsY/WeNsJS-5qlI/AAAAAAAAGfs/V2humF18tcAUBTsJV777hBeAEZtpJw5wACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015160648442" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZWxREzrqVsY/WeNsJS-5qlI/AAAAAAAAGfs/V2humF18tcAUBTsJV777hBeAEZtpJw5wACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015160648442" id="blogsy-1508180490612.216" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Fast forward to the Middle Ages. 11th Century. There are a lot of medieval towns in Sicily, most of them with a certain charm, after you navigate impossible roads and wait for the sheep to be safely crossed by the very alert and attentive sheepdogs. This little cathedral was the reward as seen from the balcony to our room on the cathedral square.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DwksGuhl4f4/WeNsepxhacI/AAAAAAAAGfw/p3Ysg9dwj2Ug-0ZNVJY8wX1ZIGUsLMHhwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015160648446" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DwksGuhl4f4/WeNsepxhacI/AAAAAAAAGfw/p3Ysg9dwj2Ug-0ZNVJY8wX1ZIGUsLMHhwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015160648446" id="blogsy-1508180490598.6797" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c5iSEcRkbkM/WeNsyEBqg5I/AAAAAAAAGf4/n63Aa0u4eA09YL5UFxhNGkkQWcXUG27KgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015160648449" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c5iSEcRkbkM/WeNsyEBqg5I/AAAAAAAAGf4/n63Aa0u4eA09YL5UFxhNGkkQWcXUG27KgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015160648449" id="blogsy-1508180490562.917" class="alignnone" width="500" height="660" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Down here someplace was the restaurant people liked on TripAdvisor. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mXR77j3rDtQ/WeNtWKufDhI/AAAAAAAAGf8/RXkx_h9SvGonyF-DGxiwmauy2dwNmRaKgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015160648455" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mXR77j3rDtQ/WeNtWKufDhI/AAAAAAAAGf8/RXkx_h9SvGonyF-DGxiwmauy2dwNmRaKgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015160648455" id="blogsy-1508180490567.246" class="alignnone" width="500" height="889" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pm7JziX55WM/WeNt-pxUivI/AAAAAAAAGgI/9GgRalHMGronzABmC_MSzWBFRLq2akwBQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015161537352" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pm7JziX55WM/WeNt-pxUivI/AAAAAAAAGgI/9GgRalHMGronzABmC_MSzWBFRLq2akwBQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015161537352" id="blogsy-1508180490634.0918" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A terrific place for an overnight and an early start the next day.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-igkVD4aeNNY/WeN0PwzTbkI/AAAAAAAAGgk/5RGGY4vJOwg3H18Gk_NlzCBViUBU7gvgQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046426" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-igkVD4aeNNY/WeN0PwzTbkI/AAAAAAAAGgk/5RGGY4vJOwg3H18Gk_NlzCBViUBU7gvgQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046426" id="blogsy-1508180490648.476" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Nothing quite prepares you for the Villa Romana del Casale. Thanks to a mudslide long ago, the villa of a very important Roman figure has been remarkably well preserved. It's what Vesuvius did for Pompeii, but Pompeii was a city with ordinary people and a few wealthy ones. The villa exudes power and position. We don't know who owned it, but this appears to be the reception room where he received people when exercising that power. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZJm-NtbeX_k/WeN0y6Cul7I/AAAAAAAAGgo/TtoMDbxMw-YBQsao9gJcwtJ9H7DBSULQwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046398" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZJm-NtbeX_k/WeN0y6Cul7I/AAAAAAAAGgo/TtoMDbxMw-YBQsao9gJcwtJ9H7DBSULQwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046398" id="blogsy-1508180490565.0503" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The courtyard is imposing. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TauSCQEKvv4/WeN1ftzmx7I/AAAAAAAAGgw/4cL2xwJO3gUhzpEBcIOgnQVHjToQdKHXACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046401" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TauSCQEKvv4/WeN1ftzmx7I/AAAAAAAAGgw/4cL2xwJO3gUhzpEBcIOgnQVHjToQdKHXACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046401" id="blogsy-1508180490652.8345" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, it's the mosaics,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-px90utXze9s/WeN2DJaEYtI/AAAAAAAAGg0/AKyBgw5jhfoMhvn2IkINUdXASSLmoGJmgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046404" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-px90utXze9s/WeN2DJaEYtI/AAAAAAAAGg0/AKyBgw5jhfoMhvn2IkINUdXASSLmoGJmgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046404" id="blogsy-1508180490600.331" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The mosaics on every theme</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCFnB6coWsoyE8eIBIv0rcneWZMm_mizHkWfQfagJu99b37_hR0uz3gSYEdXLZnGmaada8SihpTZiBki6Cp_KbRvJUuvpF0FMpID_KS6H2sLK4TcQybhdOlykOxVOtbpIUqU5OOQXkmN67/s2048/Photo+20171015164046408" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCFnB6coWsoyE8eIBIv0rcneWZMm_mizHkWfQfagJu99b37_hR0uz3gSYEdXLZnGmaada8SihpTZiBki6Cp_KbRvJUuvpF0FMpID_KS6H2sLK4TcQybhdOlykOxVOtbpIUqU5OOQXkmN67/s500/Photo+20171015164046408" id="blogsy-1508180490616.192" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Decorating every room that most impress. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5nkbtpehf6g/WeN3BvoXl3I/AAAAAAAAGhE/oVlEwms0clIJldU8hzfOfzI4mczUmCmkACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046412" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5nkbtpehf6g/WeN3BvoXl3I/AAAAAAAAGhE/oVlEwms0clIJldU8hzfOfzI4mczUmCmkACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046412" id="blogsy-1508180490570.158" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This one of women athletes being rewarded for their prowess is very unique and popular. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nS43FN88_vE/WeN3l8SDxaI/AAAAAAAAGhM/MAsdEfM0NWIPio1chnwJgaW9kD4n1F37wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046416" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nS43FN88_vE/WeN3l8SDxaI/AAAAAAAAGhM/MAsdEfM0NWIPio1chnwJgaW9kD4n1F37wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046416" id="blogsy-1508180490641.2273" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The subject matters go on and on. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3xGv7pDK6eM/WeN9nJNQojI/AAAAAAAAGh8/AEKnB0JepqQfMem9G7l4JdU-boUc46k2ACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015171952812" target="_blank"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3xGv7pDK6eM/WeN9nJNQojI/AAAAAAAAGh8/AEKnB0JepqQfMem9G7l4JdU-boUc46k2ACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015171952812" id="blogsy-1508180490580.3862" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Even the utilitarian servant's areas are decorated, although "only" in beautiful geometric patterns. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WnBA6AMT7tc/WeN4Bty6_kI/AAAAAAAAGhQ/8BQo61OoD8gLjZmhsYdQtLvIiGiJYFLHQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046429" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WnBA6AMT7tc/WeN4Bty6_kI/AAAAAAAAGhQ/8BQo61OoD8gLjZmhsYdQtLvIiGiJYFLHQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046429" id="blogsy-1508180490626.734" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In large rooms and small. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XGAUNBgbx4E/WeN4f50BXbI/AAAAAAAAGhY/oRiTk7wNJZkIglkqgPGwd8lAN4EAyjH9wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046433" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XGAUNBgbx4E/WeN4f50BXbI/AAAAAAAAGhY/oRiTk7wNJZkIglkqgPGwd8lAN4EAyjH9wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046433" id="blogsy-1508180490623.4849" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Then there is what is beneath. Here are the works for the heated baths. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XCElo7sKPIs/WeN5BWTtpLI/AAAAAAAAGhg/ILoQIcIRCYcEVxDonoKOKNA83Im1tjt2QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046437" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XCElo7sKPIs/WeN5BWTtpLI/AAAAAAAAGhg/ILoQIcIRCYcEVxDonoKOKNA83Im1tjt2QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046437" id="blogsy-1508180490649.1897" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-usfkGJKLpaY/WeN5jz0y0tI/AAAAAAAAGhk/TZUypvYChWMimhP2S1vJPwHqc131jqj0QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164204299" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-usfkGJKLpaY/WeN5jz0y0tI/AAAAAAAAGhk/TZUypvYChWMimhP2S1vJPwHqc131jqj0QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164204299" id="blogsy-1508180490627.2236" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BNEcimcembM/WeN6GEkttII/AAAAAAAAGhw/IfCsa_82H8ArzPTettUAByjI7JNcNkM6QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015164046422" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BNEcimcembM/WeN6GEkttII/AAAAAAAAGhw/IfCsa_82H8ArzPTettUAByjI7JNcNkM6QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015164046422" id="blogsy-1508180490628.088" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And, finally, a nicely decorated lavatory for the master's family. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><strong>SYRACUSE</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DvlCMDdoaeo/WeODLyxc7iI/AAAAAAAAGiQ/DFe_NQb7M7geIKb4C_2_buId7YH-ny-cwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015174120660" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DvlCMDdoaeo/WeODLyxc7iI/AAAAAAAAGiQ/DFe_NQb7M7geIKb4C_2_buId7YH-ny-cwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015174120660" id="blogsy-1508180490639.7864" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Cicero referred to Syracuse as the greatest and most beautiful of the Greek cities. It was certainly one of the most powerful cities of the Mediterranean world, along with Athens and Carthage, and was the equal of Athens in size. It was the home of Archimedes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wfkT6NMuqFg/WeODuyQQDqI/AAAAAAAAGiU/DxWvwrIu-0Af9BkfRlwJPiPp4-9c_cdjwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015174120668" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wfkT6NMuqFg/WeODuyQQDqI/AAAAAAAAGiU/DxWvwrIu-0Af9BkfRlwJPiPp4-9c_cdjwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015174120668" id="blogsy-1508180490653.6257" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Its amphitheater was not built into a hillside, but carved, and would allow 16,000 people to enjoy performances. It's where Aeschylus sat to enjoy the last of his plays.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z-MhBOyqNew/WeOEthLA6AI/AAAAAAAAGik/Vm4xO5TaSi0lf5rxIDqsPqNCMP3qkyoGgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015174120681" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z-MhBOyqNew/WeOEthLA6AI/AAAAAAAAGik/Vm4xO5TaSi0lf5rxIDqsPqNCMP3qkyoGgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015174120681" id="blogsy-1508180490668.4033" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Dionysius kept prisoners here in a cave now known as the "Dionysius Nose" where he could eavesdrop on their conversations through a small opening at the top. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBuDq1spFGU/WeOFYyEU-OI/AAAAAAAAGis/A6yXfShNc48VwtgHoSvPF4MuyGqwif82gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015174120690" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBuDq1spFGU/WeOFYyEU-OI/AAAAAAAAGis/A6yXfShNc48VwtgHoSvPF4MuyGqwif82gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015174120690" id="blogsy-1508180490657.5747" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">When the Romans took over, they constructed an arena for their entertainment. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L7qWDKrpWwo/WeOH7MbB-BI/AAAAAAAAGi4/etkac5fhjEg1GBt2LtvvkVX0S2wrHyLvgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171015180439288" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L7qWDKrpWwo/WeOH7MbB-BI/AAAAAAAAGi4/etkac5fhjEg1GBt2LtvvkVX0S2wrHyLvgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171015180439288" id="blogsy-1508180490680.3298" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">When Christians came to power and wanted a cathedral, it was natural to simply take over a temple and remodel it to current standards. (Notice the columns)</span><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W6_zUFuQ8aA/WeTS8R4LSLI/AAAAAAAAGjU/BM4nhnVSvX8KX2Q8y1q34nNj_g9A891mwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016173823243" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W6_zUFuQ8aA/WeTS8R4LSLI/AAAAAAAAGjU/BM4nhnVSvX8KX2Q8y1q34nNj_g9A891mwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016173823243" id="blogsy-1508180490659.9814" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Inside.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jXzRX9e9S2U/WeTTbbqkjuI/AAAAAAAAGjY/8n0zfo5w8fMeZe1x2apZX5wFqrNoSACNwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016173823248" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jXzRX9e9S2U/WeTTbbqkjuI/AAAAAAAAGjY/8n0zfo5w8fMeZe1x2apZX5wFqrNoSACNwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016173823248" id="blogsy-1508180490649.1882" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_gTDihLKR2c/WeTT1EPGXwI/AAAAAAAAGjg/YXv_xOmQKTsc9IoXkT2gddXyc_9HaREiACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016173823256" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_gTDihLKR2c/WeTT1EPGXwI/AAAAAAAAGjg/YXv_xOmQKTsc9IoXkT2gddXyc_9HaREiACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016173823256" id="blogsy-1508180490619.724" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And out. Actually, having visited countless cathedrals over the years, the Syracuse cathedral is now our favorite for its intimacy, beauty and human warmth. We respected the "no photos" admonition in the most beautiful side chapel. Notice the Virgin Mary in the center looking over the plaza, placed where Athena stood when it was her temple. We also enjoyed the atmosphere of the old part of the city and the wonderful gelato just across from the cathedral.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">TAORMINA</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPUjgPCp59PGjuPV5QBVgxMTq7mdEAxHUNvat-Z5hMFR5DbOjc-n1RcCG1E2pBKtjLYmbrKRvjYZjjXk_3nCW_5jReDhdNJGu4XUHELnaEqW7Oy4Zw8vZtDCEsd01klkCG-hhBQMVlV_X/s2048/Photo+20171016180757151" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPUjgPCp59PGjuPV5QBVgxMTq7mdEAxHUNvat-Z5hMFR5DbOjc-n1RcCG1E2pBKtjLYmbrKRvjYZjjXk_3nCW_5jReDhdNJGu4XUHELnaEqW7Oy4Zw8vZtDCEsd01klkCG-hhBQMVlV_X/s500/Photo+20171016180757151" id="blogsy-1508180490715.699" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The entrance to our hotel in Taormina gives some idea of where the town is situated - the town, that is. Of course, our hotel was also a challenge. We asked the hotel staff to drive the car back up the ramp when we departed. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NrofzeXvqxk/WeTa1OLmFJI/AAAAAAAAGj0/5B5n9N6JQb4VcEaF9zIqpnf0f6JH0OfCQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016180757142" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NrofzeXvqxk/WeTa1OLmFJI/AAAAAAAAGj0/5B5n9N6JQb4VcEaF9zIqpnf0f6JH0OfCQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016180757142" id="blogsy-1508180490720.231" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">At least we didn't have a big climb to get to the ruins. Not only is the Taormina amphitheater the second largest in Sicily (after Syracuse), performances still take place there. You may remember that they recently hosted the G7, although that must have been a logistical and transportation nightmare. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cbxq0ClMguo/WeTbU76RovI/AAAAAAAAGkA/uRTd6OkQf_gnaKok-loOS3CF3p8ECLgQgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016180757145" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cbxq0ClMguo/WeTbU76RovI/AAAAAAAAGkA/uRTd6OkQf_gnaKok-loOS3CF3p8ECLgQgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016180757145" id="blogsy-1508180490651.5642" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It is, however, a beautiful view. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DSoUzujRhEk/WeTb3PfpfkI/AAAAAAAAGkE/KLm3KZ_tWFg4ZrzFzKztLjw14cMDbjytwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016180757148" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DSoUzujRhEk/WeTb3PfpfkI/AAAAAAAAGkE/KLm3KZ_tWFg4ZrzFzKztLjw14cMDbjytwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016180757148" id="blogsy-1508180490681.8896" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And a charming, although really expensive, town. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rh75BpjGeto/WeTcXKNnioI/AAAAAAAAGkM/1yev0vEKff0b5ScKm3sImXdKH_ABiffZACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171016180757154" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rh75BpjGeto/WeTcXKNnioI/AAAAAAAAGkM/1yev0vEKff0b5ScKm3sImXdKH_ABiffZACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171016180757154" id="blogsy-1508180490678.105" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> With a rather quirky cathedral square. </p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-86393498597415862762017-10-11T13:08:00.000-07:002017-10-11T13:08:07.166-07:00Palermo. Welcome to Sicily.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NR-CwqQ5j54/WdpE-dfl_OI/AAAAAAAAGVk/p2zApAxt6Psrq3TdaXFJ8VP0c6QEpa1UACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008172835194" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NR-CwqQ5j54/WdpE-dfl_OI/AAAAAAAAGVk/p2zApAxt6Psrq3TdaXFJ8VP0c6QEpa1UACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008172835194" id="blogsy-1507750901294.4634" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">For a city that's 2700 years old, any beginning seems arbitrary. So we begin with a less popular site, one that goes unmentioned in the leading guidebook for Sicily. Zisa Castle or el Aziz, was a summer hunting retreat built in the 12th century by the Norman kings. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yiiygjewMec/WdpFPDysnTI/AAAAAAAAGVo/z3d6Hm_w4WYpHboPJDpC-l_M5QRu8w_iwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008172835187" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yiiygjewMec/WdpFPDysnTI/AAAAAAAAGVo/z3d6Hm_w4WYpHboPJDpC-l_M5QRu8w_iwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008172835187" id="blogsy-1507750901352.9294" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xjAtq5NKPvk/WdpFVoInppI/AAAAAAAAGVs/3yKNhzFKSfIwnkW0MzVsEjw2ECG8l9CnACHMYCw/s1304/Photo%2B20171008172835184" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xjAtq5NKPvk/WdpFVoInppI/AAAAAAAAGVs/3yKNhzFKSfIwnkW0MzVsEjw2ECG8l9CnACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008172835184" id="blogsy-1507750901296.689" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fN2XrWG66B0/WdpFftsR5UI/AAAAAAAAGVw/9FLNO_MqKSEU07r5mEQnHhFjLMTqj6QYgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008172835162" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fN2XrWG66B0/WdpFftsR5UI/AAAAAAAAGVw/9FLNO_MqKSEU07r5mEQnHhFjLMTqj6QYgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008172835162" id="blogsy-1507750901295.4192" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Begun by William I and completed by his son William II, it had fountains in the main hall on the ground floor as well as in the castle gardens and was fashioned by Arab artisans. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-amk-XGj5MWM/WdpIZuwc7vI/AAAAAAAAGV8/SN53jTXD5Y4Tgtr0lDDRzFDOUlaS-fMagCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008174434910" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-amk-XGj5MWM/WdpIZuwc7vI/AAAAAAAAGV8/SN53jTXD5Y4Tgtr0lDDRzFDOUlaS-fMagCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008174434910" id="blogsy-1507750901340.214" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZLCuuonnF_c/WdpJAwaiHWI/AAAAAAAAGWE/9UJuJXM6S-oJg5VWvn21nTz8cukHvrHHgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008174434906" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZLCuuonnF_c/WdpJAwaiHWI/AAAAAAAAGWE/9UJuJXM6S-oJg5VWvn21nTz8cukHvrHHgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008174434906" id="blogsy-1507750901286.1514" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tY40DknXuwY/WdpJXCSx_bI/AAAAAAAAGWI/VYRaFKESZW4QWHykb26wxp9VOagIC9H7wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008174434919" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tY40DknXuwY/WdpJXCSx_bI/AAAAAAAAGWI/VYRaFKESZW4QWHykb26wxp9VOagIC9H7wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008174434919" id="blogsy-1507750901286.8125" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The restoration reveals original details and surviving caches of amphorae, but the comparatively minor status of the site made it rather difficult to find the entrance, as we wandered the neighborhood.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--qpv2D1hOY8/WdpMuofiSKI/AAAAAAAAGWc/n-_F-aCG7FI1XWHf44DCQKuITjJODRAeACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008180317574" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--qpv2D1hOY8/WdpMuofiSKI/AAAAAAAAGWc/n-_F-aCG7FI1XWHf44DCQKuITjJODRAeACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008180317574" id="blogsy-1507750901364.7886" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We dropped by the archeology museum to be reminded just how deep history goes here, from Neolithic times to the Mycenaeans to the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and so forth. Legend has it that this is where the refugees from Troy came. Here we have a tomb from 3000 BC.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhfRGMkP2_DfPHBC7honXTQoVqVojr8qtHN_r-4SiP0jK6elAzwgAspl8ASLS1GdJPHOLjLQJKKom2hyphenhyphen9jpkzWdVKKAOFMRIIjAxBnViTH8pDECuh1SS6cYXXT7Ka0pVR2RH29qIxVEcL/s2048/Photo+20171008180317578" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhfRGMkP2_DfPHBC7honXTQoVqVojr8qtHN_r-4SiP0jK6elAzwgAspl8ASLS1GdJPHOLjLQJKKom2hyphenhyphen9jpkzWdVKKAOFMRIIjAxBnViTH8pDECuh1SS6cYXXT7Ka0pVR2RH29qIxVEcL/s500/Photo+20171008180317578" id="blogsy-1507750901328.628" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xydrJmdUDK4/WdpNN1R2dEI/AAAAAAAAGWk/m9cBy5iyA8osVsntuL5z4SU0UF_oHiQnwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008180317562" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xydrJmdUDK4/WdpNN1R2dEI/AAAAAAAAGWk/m9cBy5iyA8osVsntuL5z4SU0UF_oHiQnwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008180317562" id="blogsy-1507750901296.671" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A nice slipper shaped bath tub.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7L-5KpGAYQc/WdpNfGR0PAI/AAAAAAAAGWo/mzexsvCIeWE_5ginXciqCvnIlM_dxvSTACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008180317582" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7L-5KpGAYQc/WdpNfGR0PAI/AAAAAAAAGWo/mzexsvCIeWE_5ginXciqCvnIlM_dxvSTACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008180317582" id="blogsy-1507750901323.036" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kYTKQOHSRD8/WdpNw-UVW-I/AAAAAAAAGWs/-okmQr_6CQMe_inQyNM1VaoAQG85w1mbwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008180317587" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kYTKQOHSRD8/WdpNw-UVW-I/AAAAAAAAGWs/-okmQr_6CQMe_inQyNM1VaoAQG85w1mbwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008180317587" id="blogsy-1507750901281.6643" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Poor old Actaeon being torn apart by dogs for having seen Artemis, the goddess of hunting, naked (450 BC).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_1tSoyMlOFE/WdpOBI9yy9I/AAAAAAAAGWw/xPVarQwlbBUupINUIJclwPMhW4EDW_2_QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008180317590" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_1tSoyMlOFE/WdpOBI9yy9I/AAAAAAAAGWw/xPVarQwlbBUupINUIJclwPMhW4EDW_2_QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008180317590" id="blogsy-1507750901359.8342" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And a procession of Amazons on a sarcophagus (170 AD).</div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EKPdV8CdnFM/WdpSEkpTvDI/AAAAAAAAGXA/0GXVZuGcVIwlPHdiC8VxWrtEb2VJjDTIgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008182613576" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EKPdV8CdnFM/WdpSEkpTvDI/AAAAAAAAGXA/0GXVZuGcVIwlPHdiC8VxWrtEb2VJjDTIgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008182613576" id="blogsy-1507750901315.9465" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The al-Qasr (now the Royal Palace or Palace of the Normans) was started by the Emir of Palermo in the 9th century. It was then enlarged and transformed by the Norman Kings following their conquest of Sicily in 1072.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9etWeP3MmP8/WdpSP2FkhJI/AAAAAAAAGXE/pvRuyp-vme89XY82leXd6g_1kKWoCkywgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008182613571" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9etWeP3MmP8/WdpSP2FkhJI/AAAAAAAAGXE/pvRuyp-vme89XY82leXd6g_1kKWoCkywgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008182613571" id="blogsy-1507750901315.9858" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Most of the interior of the Royal Palace was completed by Roger II, the father of William I. This room is known as the Roger II Hall.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WrKbfmRIoYc/WdpSc6DkrgI/AAAAAAAAGXI/JTZ3T4FayPoCf10atvSGwd0hjX4n2XI1wCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008182613561" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WrKbfmRIoYc/WdpSc6DkrgI/AAAAAAAAGXI/JTZ3T4FayPoCf10atvSGwd0hjX4n2XI1wCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008182613561" id="blogsy-1507750901355.1025" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GyH4nbn4opk/WdpSpaDk_cI/AAAAAAAAGXM/E3PtETyZM-kBSOcWF96n7YpxADHSj31tQCHMYCw/s1568/Photo%2B20171008182613556" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GyH4nbn4opk/WdpSpaDk_cI/AAAAAAAAGXM/E3PtETyZM-kBSOcWF96n7YpxADHSj31tQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008182613556" id="blogsy-1507750901377.3943" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ddbMLmerNkM/WdpS13nIkJI/AAAAAAAAGXU/EVIeS8iw9JowSCuBkEDDdgAiXRdqtxYOQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008182613549" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ddbMLmerNkM/WdpS13nIkJI/AAAAAAAAGXU/EVIeS8iw9JowSCuBkEDDdgAiXRdqtxYOQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008182613549" id="blogsy-1507750901309.2446" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y8eHKqZ_qdQ/WdpTGLzz26I/AAAAAAAAGXY/hQjSFqED0DYm1268R3Xlcv03I8T3jm8CQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008182613544" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y8eHKqZ_qdQ/WdpTGLzz26I/AAAAAAAAGXY/hQjSFqED0DYm1268R3Xlcv03I8T3jm8CQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008182613544" id="blogsy-1507750901294.5728" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Royal Palace is the oldest royal palace in Europe. The Swabian emperors continued to use the palace, although it was only an administrative palace under the Angevin and Aragonese Kings until it became once again a royal residence under the Bourbon royal family when Leopold of Bourbon commissioned this Pompeian room.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-03CkGgRiOnY/WdpV19nhj2I/AAAAAAAAGXs/yv_A8RscHvgTnBjqOT7QAnhzAj-0rW57QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184208041" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-03CkGgRiOnY/WdpV19nhj2I/AAAAAAAAGXs/yv_A8RscHvgTnBjqOT7QAnhzAj-0rW57QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184208041" id="blogsy-1507750901339.8748" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The most sublime achievement of King Roger II was the Palatine Chapel built in 1132 on the second floor of the Royal Palace. The mosaics are so stunning, we forget to look down. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDyJIjynV48kK4TAoWGonDXgytQLtraoyGe6nPOmExq55Ccd9RyOdnBncIDkGTFziY379dEg0mapqgAOw6-csojX2lS8-YMe0F_nT38Dc7SLi48Dps2RRBwZt86NQxGikGIH9KteEaOlji/s2048/Photo+20171008184208037" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDyJIjynV48kK4TAoWGonDXgytQLtraoyGe6nPOmExq55Ccd9RyOdnBncIDkGTFziY379dEg0mapqgAOw6-csojX2lS8-YMe0F_nT38Dc7SLi48Dps2RRBwZt86NQxGikGIH9KteEaOlji/s500/Photo+20171008184208037" id="blogsy-1507750901322.6858" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kBXdAsYVq28/WdpWhfmlQBI/AAAAAAAAGX0/VIb53921XcoZT6_d0T9lQouwiyC821RCACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184208032" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kBXdAsYVq28/WdpWhfmlQBI/AAAAAAAAGX0/VIb53921XcoZT6_d0T9lQouwiyC821RCACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184208032" id="blogsy-1507750901379.2158" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The chapel combines Byzantine, Latin, and Islamic styles in a way peculiar to Sicily. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y_LGxMVlw0k/WdpW9BvjEvI/AAAAAAAAGX4/dJpRPTMPrIsnExN7iu4DCbCVJr4CqjmEwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184208027" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y_LGxMVlw0k/WdpW9BvjEvI/AAAAAAAAGX4/dJpRPTMPrIsnExN7iu4DCbCVJr4CqjmEwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184208027" id="blogsy-1507750901354.6328" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E_eas0EqeyU/WdpXl3tgP0I/AAAAAAAAGYA/xwfWs9lBSBUCVJTCfbZOvTVLBV58ie-tgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184208023" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E_eas0EqeyU/WdpXl3tgP0I/AAAAAAAAGYA/xwfWs9lBSBUCVJTCfbZOvTVLBV58ie-tgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184208023" id="blogsy-1507750901368.3843" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tQIFfHQlvVs/WdpX8r_fVhI/AAAAAAAAGYI/_jOArRYpniMPJxfFVtIFwmeMUY2V0Zn5gCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184208019" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tQIFfHQlvVs/WdpX8r_fVhI/AAAAAAAAGYI/_jOArRYpniMPJxfFVtIFwmeMUY2V0Zn5gCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184208019" id="blogsy-1507750901369.8918" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Arab craftsmen built a wooden ceiling typical of Arab architecture, a muqarnas ceiling.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A9dqF9UbljY/WdpYTmIIIYI/AAAAAAAAGYM/j7vusSqyVWUK6XBauWhI3xUcoODNYRsdQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184208014" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A9dqF9UbljY/WdpYTmIIIYI/AAAAAAAAGYM/j7vusSqyVWUK6XBauWhI3xUcoODNYRsdQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184208014" id="blogsy-1507750901338.365" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There is a Christ Pantocrator in both the dome and central apse.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7uNITH0S688/WdpZFmiLfGI/AAAAAAAAGYU/yyQ-uym4UBA6b71CkYKVZpFf10XCFanfgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171008184207998" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7uNITH0S688/WdpZFmiLfGI/AAAAAAAAGYU/yyQ-uym4UBA6b71CkYKVZpFf10XCFanfgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171008184207998" id="blogsy-1507750901360.6492" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p>With biblical stories arrayed on the walls and ceiling in gold mosaic, the effect is a magnificent space that is still used today. In fact, we carefully planned our visit to avoid a closure due to a wedding. And, yes, we did catch a glimpse of the bride.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dkSbtENr4dI/Wdunxc8UmUI/AAAAAAAAGYo/MvLR6vjIYnYw3J5gU8wU-b_9o-xIKuWsQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009184406410" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dkSbtENr4dI/Wdunxc8UmUI/AAAAAAAAGYo/MvLR6vjIYnYw3J5gU8wU-b_9o-xIKuWsQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009184406410" id="blogsy-1507750901359.1038" class="alignnone" width="500" height="668" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's said that Pope Gregory I founded a Byzantine church here in the 6th Century. Now known as the Cathederal of Palermo. When the Saracens took over in the 9th century it became a mosque until the cathedral was founded around 1185 in the reign of William I.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBWGwkDP0xJmop9wCtceFVGALBGahF-lDqS00PsiYzXlOHSZHJWiLooYuXXa0Rc3GyinNwf1QOIvlTSZR7Kfq3oqzv9XOaic42JRw2aQXlod5iZ1tVifLs13bSNR3JHYgAuCHk1ccyZq5_/s2048/Photo+20171009184406365" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBWGwkDP0xJmop9wCtceFVGALBGahF-lDqS00PsiYzXlOHSZHJWiLooYuXXa0Rc3GyinNwf1QOIvlTSZR7Kfq3oqzv9XOaic42JRw2aQXlod5iZ1tVifLs13bSNR3JHYgAuCHk1ccyZq5_/s500/Photo+20171009184406365" id="blogsy-1507750901350.629" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The crypt contains tombs and sarcophagae from Roman, Byzantine, and Norman times. The oldest we noticed was from the 11th century. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RuPHce9OHFU/Wduo-v6POaI/AAAAAAAAGY8/FvprfNf8bTUFOElcbZv3le1jVzumEmSYQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009184406428" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RuPHce9OHFU/Wduo-v6POaI/AAAAAAAAGY8/FvprfNf8bTUFOElcbZv3le1jVzumEmSYQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009184406428" id="blogsy-1507750901351.2695" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The highlight was the roof.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pNCce0zQ1MM/WduoRjhjk8I/AAAAAAAAGYw/q6sW6-SIdi82rwOT2D-moEQ3A62vIw8xwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009184406415" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pNCce0zQ1MM/WduoRjhjk8I/AAAAAAAAGYw/q6sW6-SIdi82rwOT2D-moEQ3A62vIw8xwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009184406415" id="blogsy-1507750901402.6348" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's good Jim didn't realize that the access consists of a narrow, two-way walkway on the crest of the roof.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ryFtXTofxnQ/WduohU0mqdI/AAAAAAAAGY0/p7ef00XlrxgTOLxri8I6_4A2FFn3YeyxgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009184406419" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ryFtXTofxnQ/WduohU0mqdI/AAAAAAAAGY0/p7ef00XlrxgTOLxri8I6_4A2FFn3YeyxgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009184406419" id="blogsy-1507750901325.5762" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EB7B16USUHg/WduounaPjdI/AAAAAAAAGY4/GpBKfoLq_7saiiUdINmxto2hkeDgJPTrgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009184406423" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EB7B16USUHg/WduounaPjdI/AAAAAAAAGY4/GpBKfoLq_7saiiUdINmxto2hkeDgJPTrgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009184406423" id="blogsy-1507750901353.487" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The views are, however, spectacular.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rgadoPt4liA/WdusEDG5h8I/AAAAAAAAGZI/M_XqnLyx8skiQ4p4shKoNTZTLJnZ7ClXwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009190231338" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rgadoPt4liA/WdusEDG5h8I/AAAAAAAAGZI/M_XqnLyx8skiQ4p4shKoNTZTLJnZ7ClXwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009190231338" id="blogsy-1507750901393.2234" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">From high above the city, we go deep beneath another neighborhood to the Capuchin Catacombs where the monks and many, many, many other people were from the 18th through the early years of the 20th centuries propped up and even posed as a celebration of death.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j-WGx-mb4Qw/WdusUpmi7AI/AAAAAAAAGZM/mXlsT7suVmsKfAJiOzV8gSSpa3sm1ownQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009190231330" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j-WGx-mb4Qw/WdusUpmi7AI/AAAAAAAAGZM/mXlsT7suVmsKfAJiOzV8gSSpa3sm1ownQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009190231330" id="blogsy-1507750901380.914" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Not particularly our cup of tea, although our B&B hostess has taken her 3 year old daughter there a half dozen times and finds it inspiring. It was hard to relate to that. (No photos allowed, these are courtesy of the tourist brochure)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wcqKTn8iiBw/WdvUrOPIePI/AAAAAAAAGZ8/nyPPsfYMMGsPw99OCGe1vSLOZ6h_xAV-ACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009215408834" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wcqKTn8iiBw/WdvUrOPIePI/AAAAAAAAGZ8/nyPPsfYMMGsPw99OCGe1vSLOZ6h_xAV-ACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009215408834" id="blogsy-1507750901378.587" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We preferred the market.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OU8adRQEWtk/WdvUUCrhQ6I/AAAAAAAAGZs/WmhxKfMDIo4V-rKZgn3AZHpuxnkW6EglgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009215408824" target="_blank"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OU8adRQEWtk/WdvUUCrhQ6I/AAAAAAAAGZs/WmhxKfMDIo4V-rKZgn3AZHpuxnkW6EglgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009215408824" id="blogsy-1507750901354.6477" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Wherever we go, they're hard to resist.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PfS4TN6Vmfc/WdvUYlGblkI/AAAAAAAAGZw/fWDdMuTPAf8C3RZYI7ROQvgF8JQohQFdQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009215408837" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PfS4TN6Vmfc/WdvUYlGblkI/AAAAAAAAGZw/fWDdMuTPAf8C3RZYI7ROQvgF8JQohQFdQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009215408837" id="blogsy-1507750901333.2236" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E69_0QtVV7w/WdvUhSe1CWI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/pl5_bh7utMwOLkbQz8LajvvNd865c7XKwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009215408829" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E69_0QtVV7w/WdvUhSe1CWI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/pl5_bh7utMwOLkbQz8LajvvNd865c7XKwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009215408829" id="blogsy-1507750901413.6912" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">They are full of interesting people.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LTK96tn6fUI/WdvUmeGSRpI/AAAAAAAAGZ4/DhoA7LhlQgIlci9GvDbqiPB77fR79NJOwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171009215408791" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LTK96tn6fUI/WdvUmeGSRpI/AAAAAAAAGZ4/DhoA7LhlQgIlci9GvDbqiPB77fR79NJOwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171009215408791" id="blogsy-1507750901347.3882" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And inspiring food.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tp86foTQYuM/Wd0d2FQU8fI/AAAAAAAAGak/xL5Lm9S-Gf8JcPFMUiWw_NNGLvHUc8A6QCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010211620445" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tp86foTQYuM/Wd0d2FQU8fI/AAAAAAAAGak/xL5Lm9S-Gf8JcPFMUiWw_NNGLvHUc8A6QCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010211620445" id="blogsy-1507750901361.6768" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Teatro Massimo was conceived as a way to promote Palermo as the second largest city in southern Italy just after the unification of Italy in 1861. It was finally completed in 1897.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ie7l1ZO7R_Y/Wd0e9osjOVI/AAAAAAAAGaw/GieKKXEHKpE4o8s2mNJ-0WRor3Uq5WM9ACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010211620505" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ie7l1ZO7R_Y/Wd0e9osjOVI/AAAAAAAAGaw/GieKKXEHKpE4o8s2mNJ-0WRor3Uq5WM9ACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010211620505" id="blogsy-1507750901336.3855" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">With a reputation for perfect acoustics, it's the third largest opera house in Europe (after Paris and Vienna).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RAenARbap_M/Wd0f8gh-ASI/AAAAAAAAGa8/0o1Ti2MQz4Af9xs0OJRRpUqOu5he93NrwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010212947822" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RAenARbap_M/Wd0f8gh-ASI/AAAAAAAAGa8/0o1Ti2MQz4Af9xs0OJRRpUqOu5he93NrwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010212947822" id="blogsy-1507750901411.4246" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We understand it's also renowned for a dramatic death on the front steps in the third Godfather movie.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rpQahVEjI_M/Wd0gHatbYSI/AAAAAAAAGbA/TKZomCA9D9MvXZO4yngAz0hWLlmJD6CmwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010212947834" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rpQahVEjI_M/Wd0gHatbYSI/AAAAAAAAGbA/TKZomCA9D9MvXZO4yngAz0hWLlmJD6CmwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010212947834" id="blogsy-1507750901391.5803" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, there's much more about Palermo to recommend it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mGyaQw0iimg/Wd0gK3GKlqI/AAAAAAAAGbE/eOtImn17qbUlbg-VAhTyJfXI_cENIqNrwCHMYCw/s1160/Photo%2B20171010212947827" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mGyaQw0iimg/Wd0gK3GKlqI/AAAAAAAAGbE/eOtImn17qbUlbg-VAhTyJfXI_cENIqNrwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010212947827" id="blogsy-1507750901351.95" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">From quirky fountains.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TI1DDCDxLb0/Wd0gbzC5IcI/AAAAAAAAGbI/jW3bugwibzMqHoull2yFt8F6p-fRbABWwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010212947840" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TI1DDCDxLb0/Wd0gbzC5IcI/AAAAAAAAGbI/jW3bugwibzMqHoull2yFt8F6p-fRbABWwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010212947840" id="blogsy-1507750901380.595" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To a weekend street scene packed with people of all ages out walking and enjoying their city.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TwGJVWFcMs4/Wd0kTZ51_fI/AAAAAAAAGbY/LEGQx3NsF2MQuaAmpGE2IIuboMaI8slXwCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010214709106" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TwGJVWFcMs4/Wd0kTZ51_fI/AAAAAAAAGbY/LEGQx3NsF2MQuaAmpGE2IIuboMaI8slXwCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010214709106" id="blogsy-1507750901430.796" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Just outside the city perched in the hills is the small town of Monreale where the Bishop of Palermo fled upon the 9th century takeover of Palermo by the Arabs. Following the Norman return of the island to Christianity, Monreale remained important and William II started construction on a cathedral in 1174 and the pope designated it as a metropolitan cathedral in 1182. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Njn84Psot5o/Wd0ki9OXmLI/AAAAAAAAGbc/qCZkECm-nfUqgIF0jCAhzCzlnkWKkmlXQCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010214709136" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Njn84Psot5o/Wd0ki9OXmLI/AAAAAAAAGbc/qCZkECm-nfUqgIF0jCAhzCzlnkWKkmlXQCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010214709136" id="blogsy-1507750901407.0786" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The interior is, like the Palatine Chapel, entirely decorated with exquisite mosaics, one layer featuring stories from the Old Testament and the other featuring stories from the New Testament. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iqmmtcqxOOY/Wd0kxv5t_9I/AAAAAAAAGbg/nOZln5Xd_wU1NxPhV25Zi9cW1-wqHL2bACHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010214709129" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iqmmtcqxOOY/Wd0kxv5t_9I/AAAAAAAAGbg/nOZln5Xd_wU1NxPhV25Zi9cW1-wqHL2bACHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010214709129" id="blogsy-1507750901366.6853" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeAK_y_WygLfPSMeh0nC9ORiAWFSqt5r_eGXe45sZqn33dWlAH_uBc04uRgTkiTXRcjTcpUTXIXQhhTwUHkx6c3hI3Piv5UIvAEnuggUceTe3SBA5WFMJJKSLCfOKZO_I5dgr-AKpL6Js/s2048/Photo+20171010214709122" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeAK_y_WygLfPSMeh0nC9ORiAWFSqt5r_eGXe45sZqn33dWlAH_uBc04uRgTkiTXRcjTcpUTXIXQhhTwUHkx6c3hI3Piv5UIvAEnuggUceTe3SBA5WFMJJKSLCfOKZO_I5dgr-AKpL6Js/s500/Photo+20171010214709122" id="blogsy-1507750901406.5093" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The effect is dazzling. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-np7nTREavZ8/Wd0lNIvwmtI/AAAAAAAAGbo/hZnudCi1lREnVdcN3QlnFYnaAbs8I0CdgCHMYCw/s2048/Photo%2B20171010214709140" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-np7nTREavZ8/Wd0lNIvwmtI/AAAAAAAAGbo/hZnudCi1lREnVdcN3QlnFYnaAbs8I0CdgCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010214709140" id="blogsy-1507750901385.6208" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BjrM9uZsmSA/Wd0lVwbiCXI/AAAAAAAAGbw/qvFbueKOx_UhxCjFSAf6bzOokNvLnk4ogCHMYCw/s1992/Photo%2B20171010214709146" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BjrM9uZsmSA/Wd0lVwbiCXI/AAAAAAAAGbw/qvFbueKOx_UhxCjFSAf6bzOokNvLnk4ogCHMYCw/s500/Photo%2B20171010214709146" id="blogsy-1507750901445.662" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Adjoining the cathedral is the cloisters, built in 1200 as part of the Abbey. There are 108 pairs of marble columns, each with both a unique mosaic decoration and a unique floral capital. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-11124476713860633012016-12-15T10:57:00.000-08:002016-12-15T10:57:38.845-08:00The Big Easy. Easy to Love.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oWEdhcPhx7Q/WE9OQ7aABoI/AAAAAAAAF_U/I4x0JbGJMZU/s2048/Photo%25252020161212202611680.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oWEdhcPhx7Q/WE9OQ7aABoI/AAAAAAAAF_U/I4x0JbGJMZU/s500/Photo%25252020161212202611680.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947663.8452" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Not far from the street musicians in front of the Cathedral (well, everywhere, really),</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q9lZHJPt4Z4/WE9NQwawyeI/AAAAAAAAF_A/Oo_GuhBiH1o/s2048/Photo%25252020161212202051633.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q9lZHJPt4Z4/WE9NQwawyeI/AAAAAAAAF_A/Oo_GuhBiH1o/s500/Photo%25252020161212202051633.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947643.2173" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">there are the lush streets that are never entirely emptied with their posh shops and galleries,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9pECLnBHoNE/WE9NSu7Fb8I/AAAAAAAAF_E/L2d74jEhiN0/s2048/Photo%25252020161212202051642.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9pECLnBHoNE/WE9NSu7Fb8I/AAAAAAAAF_E/L2d74jEhiN0/s500/Photo%25252020161212202051642.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947701.3608" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pr72cPXVRRY/WE9NUYmqv0I/AAAAAAAAF_I/iaz5o7pwQS4/s2048/Photo%25252020161212202051651.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pr72cPXVRRY/WE9NUYmqv0I/AAAAAAAAF_I/iaz5o7pwQS4/s500/Photo%25252020161212202051651.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947697.1523" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">and then the other Vieux Carre, or French Quarter that</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gbku0mjfpog/WE9NV_9k1eI/AAAAAAAAF_M/ebaZBSiMvzk/s2048/Photo%25252020161212202051576.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gbku0mjfpog/WE9NV_9k1eI/AAAAAAAAF_M/ebaZBSiMvzk/s500/Photo%25252020161212202051576.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947698.9355" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">offers surprising oases of calm that seem far away from the brash chaos of the lower reaches of Bourbon Street. That was our retreat, just across the street from the French Quarter on the edge of one of the oldest black neighborhoods in America, the Treme, where from time to time we could hear snatches of music from a Second Line drifting through the neighborhood.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gcyX21cNC34/WE9T71-3CNI/AAAAAAAAF_s/Ri5bPAtZyZE/s2048/Photo%25252020161212204934841.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gcyX21cNC34/WE9T71-3CNI/AAAAAAAAF_s/Ri5bPAtZyZE/s500/Photo%25252020161212204934841.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947684.7817" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Even the neighborhoods for the dead are interesting in New Orleans, and are, of course, where the idea of the Second Line originated - the joyous music leaving the cemetery. Now, people hire a Second Line to celebrate almost anything.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJ30jsXw9g3plPQZgAzxBfK-cH7fCKl32wXHbMbvWKoHdxe8tLjCz4HNWaTuWE0yWV0jSMNNMmwcMOe2y_FaCp9amC188lvH_yyWPn8GPnaIPRmLZOa9v8Bpm2fLk5fnnlxaX9A5onJlp/s2048/Photo%25252020161212204924262.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJ30jsXw9g3plPQZgAzxBfK-cH7fCKl32wXHbMbvWKoHdxe8tLjCz4HNWaTuWE0yWV0jSMNNMmwcMOe2y_FaCp9amC188lvH_yyWPn8GPnaIPRmLZOa9v8Bpm2fLk5fnnlxaX9A5onJlp/s500/Photo%25252020161212204924262.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947685.376" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Lafayette Cemetery #1 in the Garden District houses the remains of the Americans (who pushed their way into New Orleans after the Louisiana Purchase) and is, of course, an active cemetery. It's the second oldest "garden cemetery" in the country (the oldest being Mount Auburn outside of Boston), although it's difficult to fit in much garden when burial is almost always above ground (due, among other reasons, to the high water table). Our guide Naïf explained how hundreds of people can be entombed in the above ground vaults (hint: not a lot of embalming fluid). For much of the city's history, it seems like burial practices were one of the few things on which the Americans and the Creoles (pre-Louisiana Purchase inhabitants who were born in America, irrespective of race or origin). They lived in separate neighborhoods with Canal Street as their DMZ. The Cajuns are, of course, the descendents of the Acadians who, during the French and Indian War, were expelled from Atlantic Canada as a security threat. You might recall our posting from Cape Breton in 2014 in which we quoted the opening lines of Longfellow's Evangeline, his lament of the human suffering from Le Grand Derangement ("This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks . . .."). The Cajuns now live all over southern Louisiana and keep a lot of their culture alive.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k8PzsY_XIw0/WE9T_hxl_GI/AAAAAAAAF_0/lgz57ZVInk4/s2048/Photo%25252020161212204934828.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k8PzsY_XIw0/WE9T_hxl_GI/AAAAAAAAF_0/lgz57ZVInk4/s500/Photo%25252020161212204934828.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947727.4412" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In addition to family vaults, people also bought into burial societies through which families purchased perpetual rights to each of the mini-vaults, above. As always, people looked for a way to belong.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-brheZ-qi4vs/WE9UBZiuOvI/AAAAAAAAF_4/eLGdCvtqFPU/s2048/Photo%25252020161212204934834.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-brheZ-qi4vs/WE9UBZiuOvI/AAAAAAAAF_4/eLGdCvtqFPU/s500/Photo%25252020161212204934834.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947723.0085" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The same practices apply in above ground, in ground, burial. Pillows for the remains of those making way for the newcomers, but at least they get to stay.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3K1hoFWwD84/WE9UDjJUCDI/AAAAAAAAF_8/2DbWbf2JEeg/s2048/Photo%25252020161212204934838.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3K1hoFWwD84/WE9UDjJUCDI/AAAAAAAAF_8/2DbWbf2JEeg/s500/Photo%25252020161212204934838.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947667.739" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Of course, there was some stubborn New Englander who decided he had to have a New England cemetery plot in the middle of New Orleans. Shh, we're just from out of town. If we make it back to New Orleans, maybe we'll visit St. Louis Cemetery #1. That's the even older one in the French Quarter where Nicholas Cage has purchased a plot and built a pyramid for himself.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ym5Q8j4BWWQ/WE9Y3wJDCrI/AAAAAAAAGAc/WlXAgZBDWlo/s2048/Photo%25252020161212211003820.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ym5Q8j4BWWQ/WE9Y3wJDCrI/AAAAAAAAGAc/WlXAgZBDWlo/s500/Photo%25252020161212211003820.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947675.4229" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Back among the living in the Garden District, we discovered why it is so popular with celebrities.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HntwuaLoTcs/WE9Y1meMCSI/AAAAAAAAGAY/3Kad3p5RWNg/s2048/Photo%25252020161212211003815.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HntwuaLoTcs/WE9Y1meMCSI/AAAAAAAAGAY/3Kad3p5RWNg/s500/Photo%25252020161212211003815.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947726.9011" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Here's one Nicholas Cage owned for a while because of its reputation for being haunted.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIhKG1kF2J9Yvj1bR5qIhd4tdUWx3ExraY0DShtgAjha444yqVqwX6IcO_bgDr4UWtPrZO63hb1lY9Nh8tbSOMhrR04pg5G2KwOTVU-4v86y0e62Saovl7Y9rg5gjyOU4BMQKf58Ncwrmx/s2048/Photo%25252020161212211003811.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIhKG1kF2J9Yvj1bR5qIhd4tdUWx3ExraY0DShtgAjha444yqVqwX6IcO_bgDr4UWtPrZO63hb1lY9Nh8tbSOMhrR04pg5G2KwOTVU-4v86y0e62Saovl7Y9rg5gjyOU4BMQKf58Ncwrmx/s500/Photo%25252020161212211003811.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947714.8682" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, there are better reasons for living here. Gorgeous houses.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENKYGqozz9l9xAwQ6WURzwcG2wz8_vEvzynfyAI7VsVL4PU5v45vdRFQ5oacf3Mflgw4P8JHHgZ-Lietjw6C0eqFIQ8ueSpdqHERXShNp4Herxq7CQuBCOaAdTTtrLc7BglEAEdjOoY3R/s2048/Photo%25252020161212211003800.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENKYGqozz9l9xAwQ6WURzwcG2wz8_vEvzynfyAI7VsVL4PU5v45vdRFQ5oacf3Mflgw4P8JHHgZ-Lietjw6C0eqFIQ8ueSpdqHERXShNp4Herxq7CQuBCOaAdTTtrLc7BglEAEdjOoY3R/s500/Photo%25252020161212211003800.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947745.6594" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Your intrepid photographer naturally failed to snap the required photos to show where Sandra Bullock or John Goodman lives, although we learned that Goodman is a friendly guy who waves to people when he picks up his newspaper (no surprise, really)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HVa__AQjkB4/WE9n5eRz9iI/AAAAAAAAGBk/plseQ6rXtSQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221539286.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HVa__AQjkB4/WE9n5eRz9iI/AAAAAAAAGBk/plseQ6rXtSQ/s500/Photo%25252020161212221539286.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947708.654" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">What!? How can we go on about cemeteries and Nicholas Cage, ignoring the red hot reason people go to New Orleans in the first place? It's bands like the up-and-coming Brass-a-holics. Jim and Ken had seen the Rebirth Brass Band down in D.C., so it was time for something different. These guys offered up a sort of fusion brass band sound, mixing in everything from traditional sounds to hip hop, heavy on the electronics. They were great.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MnZQDmjH84M/WE9n6yLDiNI/AAAAAAAAGBo/21yzpTHNtD4/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221539684.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MnZQDmjH84M/WE9n6yLDiNI/AAAAAAAAGBo/21yzpTHNtD4/s500/Photo%25252020161212221539684.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947747.8032" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A couple of doors away at Bamboulas on Frenchmen Street the Sunshine Brass Band were playing a much more traditional sound and standards. Good listening.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IaIGGdJCeF0/WE9n8VtMcaI/AAAAAAAAGBs/Q_YFxrr5dH8/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221539982.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IaIGGdJCeF0/WE9n8VtMcaI/AAAAAAAAGBs/Q_YFxrr5dH8/s500/Photo%25252020161212221539982.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947740.8013" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There was a really well attended free concert at the cathedral featuring Sunpie, the zydeco musician. Unfortunately, the acoustics were terrible and the Christmas concert was so entirely down tempo that we moved on to see what was happening in the Quarter.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pKDnYkVA5LU/WE9n-KhIurI/AAAAAAAAGBw/wLcxIhJicJU/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221540411.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pKDnYkVA5LU/WE9n-KhIurI/AAAAAAAAGBw/wLcxIhJicJU/s500/Photo%25252020161212221540411.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947704.1448" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">For a line like this, you know it's Preservation Hall.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kNCYBthTo2s/WE9n_0lPpYI/AAAAAAAAGB0/m-rfcQcmzD0/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221540814.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kNCYBthTo2s/WE9n_0lPpYI/AAAAAAAAGB0/m-rfcQcmzD0/s500/Photo%25252020161212221540814.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947662.2234" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's a substantial wait, a tiny room and we ended up in standing room, but it's also a stellar performance, as they have a stable of the best musicians in town (in a town where music is the life blood). Worth the journey.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rfWqUB0EU3Q/WE9oBfAT3hI/AAAAAAAAGB4/qXe-1VoRcQ0/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221541168.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rfWqUB0EU3Q/WE9oBfAT3hI/AAAAAAAAGB4/qXe-1VoRcQ0/s500/Photo%25252020161212221541168.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947761.6597" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Back on Frenchmen Street, we caught blues man Walter ("Wolfman") Washington and the Roadmasters.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UUkH9gi1eqY/WE9oDKJXV4I/AAAAAAAAGB8/rdoEBceIJVw/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221541489.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UUkH9gi1eqY/WE9oDKJXV4I/AAAAAAAAGB8/rdoEBceIJVw/s500/Photo%25252020161212221541489.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947750.4834" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">His friend Rooster of Rooster and the Chickenhawks ventured over from Bourbon Street for a couple of numbers. Loved it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-falf5-LSc0s/WE9oFKOimwI/AAAAAAAAGCA/RMl1zYTKYcY/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221541907.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-falf5-LSc0s/WE9oFKOimwI/AAAAAAAAGCA/RMl1zYTKYcY/s500/Photo%25252020161212221541907.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947758.65" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Grammy winner John Cleary (best regional roots album) is a kind of swamp music Elton John, stomping along with a really playful style. Really enjoyed him. Oddly enough, he's originally from England, but discovered where he's supposed to be.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cpa10hIghxo/WE9oHE9CglI/AAAAAAAAGCE/Z4J_1UqyPRU/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221542318.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cpa10hIghxo/WE9oHE9CglI/AAAAAAAAGCE/Z4J_1UqyPRU/s500/Photo%25252020161212221542318.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947683.0537" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We wandered into Vaso in between our planned visits to the d.b.a. to see Cleary and the 10:00 show. Ed Wills and Blues4Sale was a real treat with a great voice and guitar style for a classic blues delivery.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aI1dGdxhjOs/WE9oIqM3yCI/AAAAAAAAGCI/HJm4tYPTESc/s2048/Photo%25252020161212221542634.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aI1dGdxhjOs/WE9oIqM3yCI/AAAAAAAAGCI/HJm4tYPTESc/s500/Photo%25252020161212221542634.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947681.9558" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Then, back for the 10:00 show with the Luke Winslow-King Trio. Like a lot of the bands, hard to pigeonhole, but Ken bought one of their albums on our way out.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">With no photo to show for it, our very first outing was to the Column Hotel in the Garden District to catch David Doucet, the legendary Cajun musician of Beausoleil fame. Despite starting the gig about 45 minutes later than advertised, he was, well, David Doucet and well worth the listen. After that, we started taking the camera. Lots of music for a 4 day visit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFpPB8pihvadUn3i-dLGkgiOjtU3M28izSmY5FqCTFD9AN_WXBxo7GN-0bAZn9a7sj3K_ANg2wxbONfukiaXVufR-12Pu9uaJN2YuNoT-69Ztz5Rgcyo19tdDRDaJfJF8GGPffjXLCcgaw/s1690/Photo%25252020161213110130616.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFpPB8pihvadUn3i-dLGkgiOjtU3M28izSmY5FqCTFD9AN_WXBxo7GN-0bAZn9a7sj3K_ANg2wxbONfukiaXVufR-12Pu9uaJN2YuNoT-69Ztz5Rgcyo19tdDRDaJfJF8GGPffjXLCcgaw/s500/Photo%25252020161213110130616.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947675.8489" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="400"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And, what visit to New Orleans would be complete without a visit to the bayou?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FWjZ3LV81HI/WFAbgKfIw1I/AAAAAAAAGCg/F4a1wMWMarI/s2048/Photo%25252020161213110130613.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FWjZ3LV81HI/WFAbgKfIw1I/AAAAAAAAGCg/F4a1wMWMarI/s500/Photo%25252020161213110130613.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947718.0706" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">An airboat is noisy, but it gets you out there quickly and the ear protectors are pretty effective.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ySNZGI80Pvc/WFAbim8cBlI/AAAAAAAAGCk/iFzz8DMITtc/s2048/Photo%25252020161213110130601.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ySNZGI80Pvc/WFAbim8cBlI/AAAAAAAAGCk/iFzz8DMITtc/s500/Photo%25252020161213110130601.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947730.8774" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It was too cold for the gators and when we got up to speed we understood why the guide wore a parka.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y4dRRq-C3Jg/WFAblGtsOuI/AAAAAAAAGCo/93NAy2WNETk/s2048/Photo%25252020161213110130609.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y4dRRq-C3Jg/WFAblGtsOuI/AAAAAAAAGCo/93NAy2WNETk/s500/Photo%25252020161213110130609.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947770.5564" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, it was fun to explore and see things like the cedar knees that help the tree breathe.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ScierA0j6xs/WFAg2_SoDpI/AAAAAAAAGC4/m1BJdE3bS7Y/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406298.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ScierA0j6xs/WFAg2_SoDpI/AAAAAAAAGC4/m1BJdE3bS7Y/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406298.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947699.3015" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">One evening we went over to Lafayette Square for the Luna Fete, a visual arts festival with vendors. The light show was first rate, as the old bank's facade was continuously transformed, with the illusion of action taking place behind the columns and of the entire building pulsing with breath.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mM71_geqlV4/WFAg4TmiNtI/AAAAAAAAGC8/kkU7VRr0Jvw/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406303.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mM71_geqlV4/WFAg4TmiNtI/AAAAAAAAGC8/kkU7VRr0Jvw/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406303.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947715.8489" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">One artist came with a trailer for projecting series of images with which you could interact by tweeting your own images into the program.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QcsRobOQVe4/WFAg6ZMw7tI/AAAAAAAAGDA/W-yuAPPDOfg/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406281.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QcsRobOQVe4/WFAg6ZMw7tI/AAAAAAAAGDA/W-yuAPPDOfg/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406281.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947728.2583" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Ken tweeted the bird (on left)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qu0t6We-Cmc/WFAg8SvD5FI/AAAAAAAAGDE/lkVen9kCaGk/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406293.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qu0t6We-Cmc/WFAg8SvD5FI/AAAAAAAAGDE/lkVen9kCaGk/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406293.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947714.4407" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">and the eye graphic (on right).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KWp_crWCzhs/WFAg9_W82KI/AAAAAAAAGDI/oeTjIJQiKpg/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406310.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KWp_crWCzhs/WFAg9_W82KI/AAAAAAAAGDI/oeTjIJQiKpg/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406310.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947716.5898" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Colorful lasers lay over top</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wCmdHjODjgc/WFAg_enQI7I/AAAAAAAAGDM/SVmelXl7L_U/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406315.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wCmdHjODjgc/WFAg_enQI7I/AAAAAAAAGDM/SVmelXl7L_U/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406315.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947761.3708" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">helping to link the installations together</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Z68C04vilc/WFAhBZ19ZWI/AAAAAAAAGDQ/pnO8SkwDZkk/s2048/Photo%25252020161213112406320.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Z68C04vilc/WFAhBZ19ZWI/AAAAAAAAGDQ/pnO8SkwDZkk/s500/Photo%25252020161213112406320.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947778.0913" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">for a luminous experience.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-peKoTtUFBJ4/WFAoOzOrUII/AAAAAAAAGDk/011Rl6RQygU/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448141.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-peKoTtUFBJ4/WFAoOzOrUII/AAAAAAAAGDk/011Rl6RQygU/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448141.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947689.5122" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Young Life (1994).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Ken was familiar with Bo Bartlett, whose Young Life hangs prominently in the entry to the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. He included a small insect and dandelion seed under the paint and a deer tail in the frame. Andrew Wyeth was a mentor early in his career.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hscgAEFaAaU/WFAoRMYOd8I/AAAAAAAAGDo/XQ0guy8dZBU/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448078.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hscgAEFaAaU/WFAoRMYOd8I/AAAAAAAAGDo/XQ0guy8dZBU/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448078.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947697.6213" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Rookery (2007). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This painting is enormous and completely immersive. It's creator, Simon Gunning, was on his way from Australia to England to go to art school in the 1970s when he stopped by New Orleans. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q4394Q9CJ7Y/WFAoTLX2b_I/AAAAAAAAGDs/X7w1MWqjtqI/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448088.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q4394Q9CJ7Y/WFAoTLX2b_I/AAAAAAAAGDs/X7w1MWqjtqI/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448088.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947714.1401" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Crossroads (2013).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">He was so captivated by the city and southern Louisiana that he returned in 1981 to make it his home.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a1wxXwLYveU/WFAoU26r0uI/AAAAAAAAGDw/ysPgHcOfSyM/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448093.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a1wxXwLYveU/WFAoU26r0uI/AAAAAAAAGDw/ysPgHcOfSyM/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448093.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947747.7654" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Canal in Lavender and Blue #2 (2015).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In addition to its substantial holdings, the Ogden had a special exhibit of Gunning's landscapes, each one captivating.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d-ZpC4T_hYE/WFAoWd4lzbI/AAAAAAAAGD0/kMfWkJZNSDo/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448098.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d-ZpC4T_hYE/WFAoWd4lzbI/AAAAAAAAGD0/kMfWkJZNSDo/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448098.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947731.9092" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Mourners (1962).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The big break for Georgia painter Benny Andrews came when he could study art at the Art Institute in Chicago under the GI bill.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cFwOo0JZ5kQ/WFAoYbZXtwI/AAAAAAAAGD4/xqeJI9LSK-U/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448104.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cFwOo0JZ5kQ/WFAoYbZXtwI/AAAAAAAAGD4/xqeJI9LSK-U/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448104.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947741.6797" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Death of the Crow (1965).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-67Kq1KzywEU/WFAoZ3XvjlI/AAAAAAAAGD8/u2vR9KcwEBE/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448109.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-67Kq1KzywEU/WFAoZ3XvjlI/AAAAAAAAGD8/u2vR9KcwEBE/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448109.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947781.6025" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Teacher (1965).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">He also became well known for his pioneering work in art programs in prisons. It was interesting that most of these artists spent time at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, where Amanda took a course in drawing. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0dDhMBCdZqs/WFAob6DJgYI/AAAAAAAAGEA/4o9ZTVeAIi0/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448114.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0dDhMBCdZqs/WFAob6DJgYI/AAAAAAAAGEA/4o9ZTVeAIi0/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448114.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947776.318" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">World of the Happy and the Free (1986).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Rev. Howard Finster was a self-taught Visionary artist who began creating art after God appeared to him on his thumb and said, "Make sacred art."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YKIvMwOazJA/WFAod9VTvdI/AAAAAAAAGEE/ah-KbGZ8B64/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448118.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YKIvMwOazJA/WFAod9VTvdI/AAAAAAAAGEE/ah-KbGZ8B64/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448118.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947704.0132" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Man of Vision (1981).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">One of the things that makes Visionary art interesting, as well as Outsider art and other ways we choose to think of art made by self-taught artists, is that it isn't part of the dialogue that naturally occurs within the realm of contemporary artists conscious of what has come before them.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIsj83Kes7X8XeNmukQHEhNoA6XSSbKSY5NprrWaDlbFFDVZin1U-QhKgfiYxtUDJ4hvpOGpW9YUCG0uqAM0GjKEOnmHUAcXhJO5HB5Gykny3GBiHu6U0w4MPHXIhNbMw1SRxaMOq3Qt65/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448122.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIsj83Kes7X8XeNmukQHEhNoA6XSSbKSY5NprrWaDlbFFDVZin1U-QhKgfiYxtUDJ4hvpOGpW9YUCG0uqAM0GjKEOnmHUAcXhJO5HB5Gykny3GBiHu6U0w4MPHXIhNbMw1SRxaMOq3Qt65/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448122.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947759.5715" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Elvis at 3 (1984).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There is a wonderful intensity to it that is at once bewildering and fascinating.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSfGYkmECjyDxrwtDxk_EDFjun4C5q0OJqrmH7bHzxsuePZooyDE7UUVhpHpV1HHYgZO0q1gTlfDtLCJLhUS70Xta4JB8jfmtdbroS8YNwlSsP5c5Dlk6wW_p1j8nr_4n3cuQvnfBucms8/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448126.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSfGYkmECjyDxrwtDxk_EDFjun4C5q0OJqrmH7bHzxsuePZooyDE7UUVhpHpV1HHYgZO0q1gTlfDtLCJLhUS70Xta4JB8jfmtdbroS8YNwlSsP5c5Dlk6wW_p1j8nr_4n3cuQvnfBucms8/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448126.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947753.2173" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Mississippi (no date).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Will Henry Stevens grew up in Indiana, but studied and worked in Ohio, New York, and Kentucky before winding up teaching at Newcomb College in New Orleans from 1921 through 1948. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aZVWbsgY1fI/WFAojaNIMGI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/uY7CLfqQgaQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448132.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aZVWbsgY1fI/WFAojaNIMGI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/uY7CLfqQgaQ/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448132.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947799.443" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Untitled (1945).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">He was a naturalist, mainly drawing and painting in the outdoors, and so adapted his media away from studio easel painting, including developing his own pastels (having the benefit of growing up with a chemist father).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iTGR-XoWCVw/WFAolDc9WwI/AAAAAAAAGEU/YgWyBJdoqdE/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448137.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iTGR-XoWCVw/WFAolDc9WwI/AAAAAAAAGEU/YgWyBJdoqdE/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448137.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947723.9927" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Untitled (no date).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">He was interested in the Sung painting of the 12th century, in particular because of its philosophy of the artist as an extension of nature.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ytq3k-OS1dM/WFAomwEG6bI/AAAAAAAAGEY/EfN3ZmQPwmc/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448147.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ytq3k-OS1dM/WFAomwEG6bI/AAAAAAAAGEY/EfN3ZmQPwmc/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448147.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947751.7754" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Pyramid (1995).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Over at the New Orleans Museum of Art we wanted to catch the special show featuring George Dunbar, New Orleans born and bred (art school at the Tyler School in Philadelphia), and his massive highly structured pieces. Being a land developer as a second day job, Dunbar is fascinated with land forms, bridges, canals and the like.<br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6yAlKac4VYg/WFAopIU8qII/AAAAAAAAGEc/WmlCO49lTkE/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448150.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6yAlKac4VYg/WFAopIU8qII/AAAAAAAAGEc/WmlCO49lTkE/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448150.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947789.4573" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Marsh grass XXVI (2007).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Exploring the tension between order and chaos, Dunbar buried coils of red canvas in brown clay with red gold overlaid and then filed patterns into the surface to expose some of the underlying material.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OzTTT_-Em7A/WFAoqzWhsRI/AAAAAAAAGEg/CJaYYcnBxJg/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448155.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OzTTT_-Em7A/WFAoqzWhsRI/AAAAAAAAGEg/CJaYYcnBxJg/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448155.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947760.961" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Coin du Lestin XXXVI (1997).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In this earlier work Dunbar had also created a base of clay overlaid with gold that has been incised or filed off.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wzyDk2QGTKs/WFAotEdEkzI/AAAAAAAAGEk/DbF8F6sVJsE/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448160.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wzyDk2QGTKs/WFAotEdEkzI/AAAAAAAAGEk/DbF8F6sVJsE/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448160.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947801.9124" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Glad to be outside again, we wandered the Sculpture Garden at the NOMA</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X1n4aZHo3i8/WFAowLYlbPI/AAAAAAAAGEo/zA3koQgxhm0/s2048/Photo%25252020161213115448165.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X1n4aZHo3i8/WFAowLYlbPI/AAAAAAAAGEo/zA3koQgxhm0/s500/Photo%25252020161213115448165.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947802.6282" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We Stand Together (2005).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">George Rodrigue's iconic Blue Dog image is also found in a gallery on Royal Street (as well as galleries in Lafayette, LA, and Carmel, CA). That dog sure showed up in a lot of ways. He is, of course, a native son.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vaRn0IPkv04/WFH91Al37GI/AAAAAAAAGFg/CNtJOLubO2U/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910671.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vaRn0IPkv04/WFH91Al37GI/AAAAAAAAGFg/CNtJOLubO2U/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910671.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947784.3103" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="668"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Back downtown, close to the cathedral, we visited the Cabildo, the old seat of the colonial government and now a state historical museum. Among its holdings is this death mask of Napoleon, the man who wheedled the former French possessions out of the Spanish with a promise to not sell them to the Americans and who, naturally, turned around and cut the famous deal with Jefferson. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XEkrBizP0Fc/WFH93J18AvI/AAAAAAAAGFk/-jGH0_YTX2o/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910641.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XEkrBizP0Fc/WFH93J18AvI/AAAAAAAAGFk/-jGH0_YTX2o/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910641.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947796.493" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In a private antiques gallery nearby we found the desk at which Napoleon wrote his memoirs while imprisoned on St. Helena (and that's his footbath). It seems conditions weren't overly harsh for him.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bMbJpJmKSus/WFH95KAoU_I/AAAAAAAAGFo/xm1O1iL8Rs8/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910676.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bMbJpJmKSus/WFH95KAoU_I/AAAAAAAAGFo/xm1O1iL8Rs8/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910676.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947743.6965" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Back at the Cabildo, Jim was tempted by new career options, </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2sicWTBhW-I/WFH96-CdJ5I/AAAAAAAAGFs/j-mCYXvLF_E/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910680.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2sicWTBhW-I/WFH96-CdJ5I/AAAAAAAAGFs/j-mCYXvLF_E/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910680.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947733.315" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">while Ken wasn't sure that was such a good idea.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m87xaKjlnmI/WFH98wdD5fI/AAAAAAAAGFw/F8SDW1qcP1U/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910684.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m87xaKjlnmI/WFH98wdD5fI/AAAAAAAAGFw/F8SDW1qcP1U/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910684.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947806.496" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We think of New Orleans as a city built by the French and Spanish, but in reality there was also very significant immigration from Germany (which is easy to see in the cemeteries). Much to our surprise, it was the German immigrants who introduced the accordion to the culture, providing some vindication for Jim's side of the family.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uIkavLgmetI/WFH9-21x9eI/AAAAAAAAGF0/wOJ60d_hFaI/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910690.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uIkavLgmetI/WFH9-21x9eI/AAAAAAAAGF0/wOJ60d_hFaI/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910690.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947755.1394" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The museum at the Cabildo provides a very clear-eyed overview of the history of Louisiana, including the successful effort to overturn Reconstruction and reestablish white rule after the Civil War. Artifacts like a New Orleans slave auction block from around 1850 make it tangible and remind us that all of this occurred not long ago. Jim, for example, remembers his great grandfather Billy who, as a young boy, hid under the porch as Confederate troops made their way to Gettysburg.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-meZcpOaVL9w/WFH-AxE15cI/AAAAAAAAGF4/o0vh8HCT0Yc/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910696.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-meZcpOaVL9w/WFH-AxE15cI/AAAAAAAAGF4/o0vh8HCT0Yc/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910696.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947797.134" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It was, however, the World War II museum that was the big surprise of our visit to New Orleans. We are all quite well versed in that war, thank you. But, everywhere we turned we were advised by locals that it was an outstanding museum, that everyone raved about it, that it is consistently rated as one of the best museums in the world, and that at least 4 to 6 hours are needed for a visit, if not more. They were right.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xOXKjXUiCoo/WFH-ChPM5dI/AAAAAAAAGF8/spp16NdvQ4w/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910700.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xOXKjXUiCoo/WFH-ChPM5dI/AAAAAAAAGF8/spp16NdvQ4w/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910700.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947762.4424" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The exhibit spaces are filled with documentary footage on the walls, compelling and carefully explained artifacts, oral history recordings running continuously as you move through the spaces, and fascinating detail on all of the more minor missions, engagements and battles you actually haven't learned about before.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rvMWHP0Gn5k/WFH-EdhZaLI/AAAAAAAAGGA/8w7zjGRYegI/s2048/Photo%25252020161214211910706.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rvMWHP0Gn5k/WFH-EdhZaLI/AAAAAAAAGGA/8w7zjGRYegI/s500/Photo%25252020161214211910706.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947775.5835" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's a museum experience taken to new heights (actually, Jim had a tough time on the catwalk way up here!).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uQ4PhY1Va_A/WFKj-YTHXeI/AAAAAAAAGGY/v0hRYr1TnsI/s2048/Photo%25252020161215090844111.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uQ4PhY1Va_A/WFKj-YTHXeI/AAAAAAAAGGY/v0hRYr1TnsI/s500/Photo%25252020161215090844111.jpg" id="blogsy-1481810947802.8796" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Finally, you can't think of New Orleans without thinking about food. Wonderful food. Muffuletta. Po-boys. Jambalaya. Gumbo. Sausages. Lots of pork. Here, Amanda enjoys a beignet at the Cafe du Monde. From very upscale eateries to absolute dives there are plenty of great places to grab a delicious bite to eat, including delis with smokers in the back. People are proud of their food heritage and, don't forget, if there's tomatoes in there it's not Cajun, it's Creole.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There you have it. Four days. The Big Easy. Hard to forget. <br></div>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-76963630456477469522016-11-01T18:50:00.000-07:002016-11-01T18:50:52.661-07:00San Sebastián. Life is good, and the food even better.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D6X8WaHj4uY/WBd9LoYW_0I/AAAAAAAAF4I/DaZCSP7iAVY/s2048/Photo%25252020161031131854967.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D6X8WaHj4uY/WBd9LoYW_0I/AAAAAAAAF4I/DaZCSP7iAVY/s500/Photo%25252020161031131854967.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844582.1775" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><p> Here, twelve miles from the French border, you are in the real heart of Basque Country, and it is entrancing.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0Bb0SwVZsNg/WBd9PT01vBI/AAAAAAAAF4Q/WM9KH2R7jKY/s2048/Photo%25252020161031131855004.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0Bb0SwVZsNg/WBd9PT01vBI/AAAAAAAAF4Q/WM9KH2R7jKY/s500/Photo%25252020161031131855004.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844593.1655" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GlJ5tERNSc8/WBd9NqMS65I/AAAAAAAAF4M/Clo-wkn7zdU/s2048/Photo%25252020161031131854996.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GlJ5tERNSc8/WBd9NqMS65I/AAAAAAAAF4M/Clo-wkn7zdU/s500/Photo%25252020161031131854996.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844644.3542" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y3-PSwnNWEQ/WBeAM0FVFPI/AAAAAAAAF48/0k1DpUjfxD8/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111416.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y3-PSwnNWEQ/WBeAM0FVFPI/AAAAAAAAF48/0k1DpUjfxD8/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111416.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844569.197" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nFWY5kmjzkc/WBd9Q1ei0pI/AAAAAAAAF4U/utC8q697i7Q/s2048/Photo%25252020161031131855011.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nFWY5kmjzkc/WBd9Q1ei0pI/AAAAAAAAF4U/utC8q697i7Q/s500/Photo%25252020161031131855011.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844617.5693" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wMFpaiwKAsA/WBd9UPqUt5I/AAAAAAAAF4c/u-TELmYcQJw/s2048/Photo%25252020161031131855028.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wMFpaiwKAsA/WBd9UPqUt5I/AAAAAAAAF4c/u-TELmYcQJw/s500/Photo%25252020161031131855028.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844604.1475" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gTdQWOsxU6o/WBd9SUc0DrI/AAAAAAAAF4Y/hCFe8uvY_SM/s2048/Photo%25252020161031131855020.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gTdQWOsxU6o/WBd9SUc0DrI/AAAAAAAAF4Y/hCFe8uvY_SM/s500/Photo%25252020161031131855020.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844624.839" class="alignnone" width="500" height="358" alt=""></a></div><p> People have been living in the area for around 25,000 years and the city was chartered in the 12th century, but a catastrophic fire following the breach of the town's walls and the fall of the city in 1813 to an Anglo-Portuguese force has given it a 19th century look.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zA3wwnZieN0/WBd-8vSB5sI/AAAAAAAAF4k/6UQNX-Aa_5c/s2048/Photo%25252020161031132612583.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zA3wwnZieN0/WBd-8vSB5sI/AAAAAAAAF4k/6UQNX-Aa_5c/s500/Photo%25252020161031132612583.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844590.9744" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OvZHHyDfdyM/WBd--Aq-poI/AAAAAAAAF4o/_XhRT1fW5Fw/s2048/Photo%25252020161031132612579.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OvZHHyDfdyM/WBd--Aq-poI/AAAAAAAAF4o/_XhRT1fW5Fw/s500/Photo%25252020161031132612579.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844650.6526" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--dT-nH5HOzA/WBd-_z7wA2I/AAAAAAAAF4s/4ZdfS2iJNSE/s2048/Photo%25252020161031132612573.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--dT-nH5HOzA/WBd-_z7wA2I/AAAAAAAAF4s/4ZdfS2iJNSE/s500/Photo%25252020161031132612573.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844652.1582" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> It's a town that makes its living largely from tourism and international festivals and as a cultural magnet for the people of the region. Tourism improved dramatically when separatist violence from the ETA ended.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGQ4ggsl1TevUk_2TMKZRQ1zxuOllp_KGvY9ABi9RT6Qx1X5Fj5idzGAWPRUmurYYEv-8Hbzy3xnV_0sa0Xj9IGfFaGltHhych51ax9AYMnjmKJrXbI8e4K1q2jnyATc1bnwUQO0OV8rY/s2048/Photo%25252020161031132612569.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGQ4ggsl1TevUk_2TMKZRQ1zxuOllp_KGvY9ABi9RT6Qx1X5Fj5idzGAWPRUmurYYEv-8Hbzy3xnV_0sa0Xj9IGfFaGltHhych51ax9AYMnjmKJrXbI8e4K1q2jnyATc1bnwUQO0OV8rY/s500/Photo%25252020161031132612569.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844681.5657" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ad-L9nH1w1U/WBd_DEWAriI/AAAAAAAAF40/UoF1MNDP1Mc/s2048/Photo%25252020161031132612565.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ad-L9nH1w1U/WBd_DEWAriI/AAAAAAAAF40/UoF1MNDP1Mc/s500/Photo%25252020161031132612565.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844647.4553" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Where it's easy to kick off your shoes and enjoy yourself, even on an overcast day in late October.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--yaeMqzaFAg/WBeAYuK5Z8I/AAAAAAAAF5Y/DiBdVqR0wPc/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111452.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--yaeMqzaFAg/WBeAYuK5Z8I/AAAAAAAAF5Y/DiBdVqR0wPc/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111452.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844670.4607" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X8raRf4pvok/WBeAW1kKNkI/AAAAAAAAF5U/6cTscs_kTPc/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111447.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X8raRf4pvok/WBeAW1kKNkI/AAAAAAAAF5U/6cTscs_kTPc/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111447.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844612.5051" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M1Uz3YsmxsE/WBeAVDGPGFI/AAAAAAAAF5Q/2lR0SExaw1k/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111442.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M1Uz3YsmxsE/WBeAVDGPGFI/AAAAAAAAF5Q/2lR0SExaw1k/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111442.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844634.2908" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p>A stroll along either side of the river </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1xM_Lsk8ggM/WBeAR3hMFqI/AAAAAAAAF5I/AvmaEGhYbr8/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111434.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1xM_Lsk8ggM/WBeAR3hMFqI/AAAAAAAAF5I/AvmaEGhYbr8/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111434.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844673.185" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b-mkVlBacg8/WBeAOV4cj1I/AAAAAAAAF5A/CEVgISAWym8/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111422.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b-mkVlBacg8/WBeAOV4cj1I/AAAAAAAAF5A/CEVgISAWym8/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111422.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844634.3179" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tMsNK5DyHrc/WBeATs4jZCI/AAAAAAAAF5M/MWsJFm3j4E4/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133111438.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tMsNK5DyHrc/WBeATs4jZCI/AAAAAAAAF5M/MWsJFm3j4E4/s500/Photo%25252020161031133111438.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844671.6382" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> Or in the old city</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q7RicAsn85U/WBeAcYTz4FI/AAAAAAAAF5g/mpRsX4pE6lc/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133205341.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q7RicAsn85U/WBeAcYTz4FI/AAAAAAAAF5g/mpRsX4pE6lc/s500/Photo%25252020161031133205341.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844684.5232" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> Will bring you to places like Constitution Square (where the numbers over the apartment doors harken back to when owners were forced to rent balcony space to their betters to watch the bullfights in the square)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--9tk9-XVhf4/WBeAd1jy8XI/AAAAAAAAF5k/n1E517A5tpU/s2048/Photo%25252020161031133205364.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--9tk9-XVhf4/WBeAd1jy8XI/AAAAAAAAF5k/n1E517A5tpU/s500/Photo%25252020161031133205364.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844642.7249" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Or a sunset over the Atlantic.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iVw7kMXIq10/WBeCfSdFrnI/AAAAAAAAF50/GF5kT1MxQpw/s2048/Photo%25252020161031134138694.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iVw7kMXIq10/WBeCfSdFrnI/AAAAAAAAF50/GF5kT1MxQpw/s500/Photo%25252020161031134138694.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844720.3713" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Xdc7Ov8zlmI/WBeChC4XwVI/AAAAAAAAF54/4jv8WopgQUc/s2048/Photo%25252020161031134138690.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Xdc7Ov8zlmI/WBeChC4XwVI/AAAAAAAAF54/4jv8WopgQUc/s500/Photo%25252020161031134138690.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844678.9055" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> But, what has really put San Sebastián (Donostia, in Basque) on the map is food.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qnM7CbrNMF8/WBeDR2K6JdI/AAAAAAAAF6A/-m6CrWDTDsY/s2048/Photo%25252020161031134439636.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qnM7CbrNMF8/WBeDR2K6JdI/AAAAAAAAF6A/-m6CrWDTDsY/s500/Photo%25252020161031134439636.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844684.5767" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> In what turned out to be a stroke of genius, we hired a guide to take us around to a few bars in the city for pintxos. Although we could have survived with a bit of pointing and taken advantage of the reasonable amount of English and the substantial amount of friendliness found in the Donostiarra who live here, our guide enriched our experience immeasurably.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UaWc2CikiwA/WBeDQM3bCEI/AAAAAAAAF58/UYednmteUO0/s2048/Photo%25252020161031134439632.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UaWc2CikiwA/WBeDQM3bCEI/AAAAAAAAF58/UYednmteUO0/s500/Photo%25252020161031134439632.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844733.5754" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kzpmGNLKEO0/WBeDT22X_aI/AAAAAAAAF6E/W53SyVTyo4o/s2048/Photo%25252020161031134439646.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kzpmGNLKEO0/WBeDT22X_aI/AAAAAAAAF6E/W53SyVTyo4o/s500/Photo%25252020161031134439646.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844666.1318" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Donostia is a city obsessed with food and gastronomy. Especially on Thursdays, people go out with friends and family to a series of bars offering both cold and hot pintxos. They order a couple, together with a drink they never finish, enjoy them and move on to the next establishment. People almost always stand, as this is a snack, not a meal. Kids are typically in tow.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lXS9E9iMG84/WBeDVqH2KnI/AAAAAAAAF6I/jXHtT2TTHv4/s2048/Photo%25252020161031134439629.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lXS9E9iMG84/WBeDVqH2KnI/AAAAAAAAF6I/jXHtT2TTHv4/s500/Photo%25252020161031134439629.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844700.55" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Our first pintxo was a Gilda. Olives (yes, but only-available-in-Spain really good ones), anchovies (a revelation), and peppers (one in ten is hot). Eaten in one bite & it was extraordinary. The Gilda was apparently named after Rita Hayworth's 1946 movie of the same name. Franco banned it. Reason enough.</p><p>Within sight of this first pintxo bar were three gastronomical societies, of which the city of barely more than 180,000 people is reported to have around 140. We were told that in their matrilineal society, Basque men value a place of their own, especially one in which they can cook and can claim the kitchen as exclusively theirs. Men may belong to 2 or 3 of the societies, maintaining connections to childhood friends, work colleagues, and so forth. The city has an embarrassment of riches in terms of food. Of Spain's five restaurants with 3 Michelin stars (the highest rating), three are in San Sebastián. But, back to the food.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FB0lKdA0eMQ/WBeJvwLUbaI/AAAAAAAAF6o/yX0NdwmowZ0/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141245149.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FB0lKdA0eMQ/WBeJvwLUbaI/AAAAAAAAF6o/yX0NdwmowZ0/s500/Photo%25252020161031141245149.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844662.234" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nULCSlkIUjQ/WBeJxmoZ3tI/AAAAAAAAF6s/yPQQ0djDL-Q/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141245153.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nULCSlkIUjQ/WBeJxmoZ3tI/AAAAAAAAF6s/yPQQ0djDL-Q/s500/Photo%25252020161031141245153.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844683.5957" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">At our next stop, we had squid in its own ink, as well as beef cheeks.</span><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OposbDFCWLs/WBeJzC9VQRI/AAAAAAAAF6w/kmydrIDioic/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141245156.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OposbDFCWLs/WBeJzC9VQRI/AAAAAAAAF6w/kmydrIDioic/s500/Photo%25252020161031141245156.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844653.714" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p>One of the pintxos at our third stop was Brie coated in poppy seeds and lightly fried. By the third stop it was raining a bit, so we huddled close under the umbrellas as we stood at the tables, but the eating was enough of a distraction that it really didn't bother us.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rbBEB7ICQwA/WBeK-lJG3XI/AAAAAAAAF68/6dijuFc-xE4/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707200.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rbBEB7ICQwA/WBeK-lJG3XI/AAAAAAAAF68/6dijuFc-xE4/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707200.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844684.1523" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> As befits a pilgrimage to San Sebastián, we reported for our course in Basque cooking.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iatvIISJo8k/WBeLAPB1IKI/AAAAAAAAF7A/mIjAZ9zIAMI/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141703697.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iatvIISJo8k/WBeLAPB1IKI/AAAAAAAAF7A/mIjAZ9zIAMI/s500/Photo%25252020161031141703697.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844710.5095" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Our instructor Augus (holding the bag) took us through the paces.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJav9osj_ePzat24-RQcIN4ApWBP5MM8UmcIqZmCVaAoWSwbjdym9Q4yVpcSrL3b6d5tKRXzqYzF8_NRhunKv-Lgd32x1tI-dCE7zvmixlwfR3TjP_3bi1zv9jWcPsal6FjrnG9abBQlOO/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707209.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJav9osj_ePzat24-RQcIN4ApWBP5MM8UmcIqZmCVaAoWSwbjdym9Q4yVpcSrL3b6d5tKRXzqYzF8_NRhunKv-Lgd32x1tI-dCE7zvmixlwfR3TjP_3bi1zv9jWcPsal6FjrnG9abBQlOO/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707209.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844707.7483" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Proper cleaning and deboning means you don't over handle the fish</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AkSqFEs46Y8/WBeLDX5cUQI/AAAAAAAAF7I/wExX5sm1cHM/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707206.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AkSqFEs46Y8/WBeLDX5cUQI/AAAAAAAAF7I/wExX5sm1cHM/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707206.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844733.8728" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hQKqG30Hi9Y/WBeLB-ivIrI/AAAAAAAAF7E/8Z-c7BB_ugs/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707203.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hQKqG30Hi9Y/WBeLB-ivIrI/AAAAAAAAF7E/8Z-c7BB_ugs/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707203.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844727.3806" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> But carefully remove both the skin and the inner membrane which otherwise will cause the cooked fish to curl. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QTtYdGsFrUY/WBeQRLet3MI/AAAAAAAAF8Y/ySdFv4OeI0I/s2048/Photo%25252020161031144053756.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QTtYdGsFrUY/WBeQRLet3MI/AAAAAAAAF8Y/ySdFv4OeI0I/s500/Photo%25252020161031144053756.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844755.9153" class="alignnone" width="500" height="668" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Oh, and don't forget the cheek, the real delicacy.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VdepKcgcLco/WBeLGM6UgBI/AAAAAAAAF7Q/ou-wcjkXqq0/s1420/Photo%25252020161031141707213.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VdepKcgcLco/WBeLGM6UgBI/AAAAAAAAF7Q/ou-wcjkXqq0/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707213.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844737.5227" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The fish is cooked gently by swirling the pan (for hours, if you don't know the chef's shortcut).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUWUnltGZVJ6v_PEYz_gb5wvLadJFee-ISwUBReN0PR2Lj47N9gP9jgXbeGZ7YciALKHYWS0X99O5g8fRn-f0DXCa4IQdG1Yp4JKlt5i8dKHhdfCAocbHlljSMopdO4wbnFn6BMYGG-rF/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707217.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUWUnltGZVJ6v_PEYz_gb5wvLadJFee-ISwUBReN0PR2Lj47N9gP9jgXbeGZ7YciALKHYWS0X99O5g8fRn-f0DXCa4IQdG1Yp4JKlt5i8dKHhdfCAocbHlljSMopdO4wbnFn6BMYGG-rF/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707217.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844715.4558" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VwGtSA4fMqQ/WBeLJHxEnnI/AAAAAAAAF7Y/3vVPQ81qx8o/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707220.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VwGtSA4fMqQ/WBeLJHxEnnI/AAAAAAAAF7Y/3vVPQ81qx8o/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707220.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844724.8052" class="alignnone" width="500" height="700" alt=""></a></div><p> The peppers must be correctly sautéed. And, yes, Adrianne from Miami was recording pretty much every technique.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-spxoHk2H74I/WBeLK9xyUcI/AAAAAAAAF7c/_DUFIXxXKj4/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141707223.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-spxoHk2H74I/WBeLK9xyUcI/AAAAAAAAF7c/_DUFIXxXKj4/s500/Photo%25252020161031141707223.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844693.7249" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Frank, the Basque-American whose mother witnessed the attack on Guernica, tries his hand at one of the chef's secrets. Whisking with a colander.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh63mHhE3B-xlhj5RZj2Q6Qp5eKkkSREsz04sA40Kgln_NMaDHfDJAk9Hd8-EUzaMP0J-5r6Tz8ikMGR4ftgyt3kT66Aa3jqGDOKSFjPMwC10BqnPM8lt945a30M0tG2dnywTVlVAzXyDEP/s2048/Photo%25252020161031141812323.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh63mHhE3B-xlhj5RZj2Q6Qp5eKkkSREsz04sA40Kgln_NMaDHfDJAk9Hd8-EUzaMP0J-5r6Tz8ikMGR4ftgyt3kT66Aa3jqGDOKSFjPMwC10BqnPM8lt945a30M0tG2dnywTVlVAzXyDEP/s500/Photo%25252020161031141812323.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844771.0938" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><p> The team begins to assemble one of the dishes.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xMHoXkJMj7M/WBeOrIA408I/AAAAAAAAF7w/JG0hXEw9Ck8/s1263/Photo%25252020161031143333428.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xMHoXkJMj7M/WBeOrIA408I/AAAAAAAAF7w/JG0hXEw9Ck8/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333428.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844737.0469" class="alignnone" width="500" height="666" alt=""></a></div><p> This one.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PWSw9yWhe_YvTMJGthtrUhMTpNDWmAkfHc2Vr8-OBeCThs3nCbM5ygPRrXNPLAckOXcDUNGfsEPtOrXFYLa3cz2MD12e7MLZILv8q4NlbLNTkb2vBJwsVKgyjOLa0pMRCsE2np6iit_w/s2048/Photo%25252020161031143333436.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PWSw9yWhe_YvTMJGthtrUhMTpNDWmAkfHc2Vr8-OBeCThs3nCbM5ygPRrXNPLAckOXcDUNGfsEPtOrXFYLa3cz2MD12e7MLZILv8q4NlbLNTkb2vBJwsVKgyjOLa0pMRCsE2np6iit_w/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333436.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844741.2605" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HmO5cA_JP78/WBeOwDKC0bI/AAAAAAAAF78/vcPdUeh93e0/s1788/Photo%25252020161031143333441.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HmO5cA_JP78/WBeOwDKC0bI/AAAAAAAAF78/vcPdUeh93e0/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333441.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844779.4404" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cWCOwM6tQHI/WBeOs1NCFeI/AAAAAAAAF70/vS2GzO1WA80/s2048/Photo%25252020161031143333431.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cWCOwM6tQHI/WBeOs1NCFeI/AAAAAAAAF70/vS2GzO1WA80/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333431.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844757.9783" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6q--UFpvLZI/WBeOwxm1EWI/AAAAAAAAF8A/FkCalEp-pCg/s1203/Photo%25252020161031143333444.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6q--UFpvLZI/WBeOwxm1EWI/AAAAAAAAF8A/FkCalEp-pCg/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333444.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844714.1182" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HfUCkjlEciQ/WBeOzo0y_SI/AAAAAAAAF8I/M99fGVzth-c/s2048/Photo%25252020161031143333451.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HfUCkjlEciQ/WBeOzo0y_SI/AAAAAAAAF8I/M99fGVzth-c/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333451.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844747.9172" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gxn8ChnsoxU/WBeO1YohMFI/AAAAAAAAF8M/ZWuYUSRb2pE/s2048/Photo%25252020161031143333455.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gxn8ChnsoxU/WBeO1YohMFI/AAAAAAAAF8M/ZWuYUSRb2pE/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333455.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844701.8003" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Truly delicious.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ja4WUbxVrls/WBeOyOk3LTI/AAAAAAAAF8E/at7UUHIZhUM/s2048/Photo%25252020161031143333447.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ja4WUbxVrls/WBeOyOk3LTI/AAAAAAAAF8E/at7UUHIZhUM/s500/Photo%25252020161031143333447.jpg" id="blogsy-1478049844778.1897" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> And reason enough for a visit to Donostia (San Sebastián). </p><p>On egin! (Bon appetit!)</p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-86068240083053979002016-10-30T15:46:00.000-07:002016-10-30T15:50:54.994-07:00Being so close . . .<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Il1p4OaH5GQ/WBZQDd3CpaI/AAAAAAAAF1Q/vuQls42Cyf8/s2048/Photo%25252020161030155351818.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Il1p4OaH5GQ/WBZQDd3CpaI/AAAAAAAAF1Q/vuQls42Cyf8/s500/Photo%25252020161030155351818.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194727.4075" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">When planning our trip to northern Spain, it occurred to us to wonder how far off the beaten path we would find the famous Paleolithic cave paintings. As it turned out, not far. From Bilbao, we rented another car and headed west towards the mountains, making for Altamira, El Castillo, and La Moneda. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KCBV9TR81UA/WBZQFvTDyYI/AAAAAAAAF1U/oAN2RgLHF5M/s2048/Photo%25252020161030155351824.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KCBV9TR81UA/WBZQFvTDyYI/AAAAAAAAF1U/oAN2RgLHF5M/s500/Photo%25252020161030155351824.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194746.2349" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r21nmXms1o4/WBZQHgqfTOI/AAAAAAAAF1Y/Ce_XmHv-b5s/s2048/Photo%25252020161030155351832.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r21nmXms1o4/WBZQHgqfTOI/AAAAAAAAF1Y/Ce_XmHv-b5s/s500/Photo%25252020161030155351832.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194697.772" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sBpJBnBG_7g/WBZQBYolxbI/AAAAAAAAF1M/--zQEOE53Qw/s2048/Photo%25252020161030155351794.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sBpJBnBG_7g/WBZQBYolxbI/AAAAAAAAF1M/--zQEOE53Qw/s500/Photo%25252020161030155351794.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194775.364" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">El Castillo (the Castle) and La Moneda (the Money) are minutes away from each other along a mountain path. La Moneda is mostly interesting for its rock formations, but El Castillo contains the oldest known cave art in Europe (at over 40,000 years old). They are discs and stencils of hands made by blowing pigment onto the rock surfaces. There's also representational art in the cave, although it is a little more recent (but, not much). We were impressed with the skillfulness of the execution and how the artists incorporated the naturally occurring contours of the rock surface into the compositions. The back or stomach or haunch of the animal wouldn't actually be drawn, for example, but the artist would enhance the animal form one might see in the rock contours by using pigment to fill in the "missing" elements of the design. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6QeqA_JUnMiOr0LFzRIDI1E4UMuw-zJ1Si9Kc97B5lATT5nyh8ywEpA1Jvui1zJGGhJ0FOVtl4IHbEaLSrg87zCVNHu93BgZP00cV1c_x4pIn0VY4T0QnCU7yjWKS1JJcF9Kl_4B5LzCw/s2048/Photo%25252020161030155351837.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6QeqA_JUnMiOr0LFzRIDI1E4UMuw-zJ1Si9Kc97B5lATT5nyh8ywEpA1Jvui1zJGGhJ0FOVtl4IHbEaLSrg87zCVNHu93BgZP00cV1c_x4pIn0VY4T0QnCU7yjWKS1JJcF9Kl_4B5LzCw/s500/Photo%25252020161030155351837.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194730.081" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><p> The most (justifiably) famous Spanish cave is Altamira. It is open only to a few visitors who are chosen by lottery in order to conserve the artwork. In fact, we met two young men during our visit of El Castillo, one of whom had been fortunate enough to have been chosen to go into the cave. His friend showed us a video showing how visitors are suited up in what look like hazmat suits for their tours. However, a "Neocave" has been built that is a faithful, life-size replica of the cave and the paintings, visits to which are controlled with timed tickets. There's also a sizable display covering cave art and other early human topics that could take most of a day to thoroughly consume. </p><p>Altamira's art was produced at different eras ranging from 36,000 years ago to 13,000 years ago. It was the areas further into the cave (rather than closer to the entrance) that were used for the paintings. To Jim's question why the cave walls and ceiling weren't smudged with soot from the fires or torches used to see inside the caves, the guide at El Castillo explained that animal fats were used for lighting because they burned much cleaner than wood and didn't produce that kind of smoke. To make the paintings, the artists used charcoal and ochre (iron oxide). They are very cleanly and precisely rendered, so that it's clear that the painters must have practiced extensively elsewhere before committing their art to the cave walls and ceilings.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLwXRMd3bB6MeXDdjHm6vnObRn5pR0rK5BC3E9fB3NnGTxaMqJpDqIF0fnk7S04baSL_n2J70vnKqYUsCk969sASr82yncSbWL_mleEBpB2CITvhWZXZzY_ibEdLEdfVPjCNtR0ayAv29/s2048/Photo%25252020161030164832378.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLwXRMd3bB6MeXDdjHm6vnObRn5pR0rK5BC3E9fB3NnGTxaMqJpDqIF0fnk7S04baSL_n2J70vnKqYUsCk969sASr82yncSbWL_mleEBpB2CITvhWZXZzY_ibEdLEdfVPjCNtR0ayAv29/s500/Photo%25252020161030164832378.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194730.9185" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Being already in Cantabria, how could we not visit one of the small towns in the hills?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hs7BBzFCJEM/WBZeoxA40qI/AAAAAAAAF2Y/IEI2Dx6ba74/s2048/Photo%25252020161030165641877.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hs7BBzFCJEM/WBZeoxA40qI/AAAAAAAAF2Y/IEI2Dx6ba74/s500/Photo%25252020161030165641877.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194770.477" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D_t7hiygceY/WBZeq3m9CsI/AAAAAAAAF2c/DdJdsf-khU0/s2048/Photo%25252020161030165641881.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D_t7hiygceY/WBZeq3m9CsI/AAAAAAAAF2c/DdJdsf-khU0/s500/Photo%25252020161030165641881.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194795.3552" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We chose the one Sartre called the prettiest town in Spain in one of his novels (it's amazing the research promotional people do), Santillana del Mar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zOXb8SedRbc/WBZdw8RntUI/AAAAAAAAF2A/peakJF_Sw8U/s2048/Photo%25252020161030164832391.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zOXb8SedRbc/WBZdw8RntUI/AAAAAAAAF2A/peakJF_Sw8U/s500/Photo%25252020161030164832391.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194733.2322" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vOu6qF2Cqhs/WBZc6m7Ks2I/AAAAAAAAF14/h_G5qOmLa_Q/s2048/Photo%25252020161030164832386.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vOu6qF2Cqhs/WBZc6m7Ks2I/AAAAAAAAF14/h_G5qOmLa_Q/s500/Photo%25252020161030164832386.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194724.8271" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We even managed to have a nice lunch, after once again confirming that we couldn't find anywhere to eat lunch that opened earlier than 1:00 (we must confess to never fully adapting to Spanish dining hours).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GVxeuMkM3K0/WBZdyhhhU4I/AAAAAAAAF2E/XlslzpPGXxg/s2048/Photo%25252020161030164832395.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GVxeuMkM3K0/WBZdyhhhU4I/AAAAAAAAF2E/XlslzpPGXxg/s500/Photo%25252020161030164832395.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194779.3787" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4NjOr9GhgAs/WBZd1HXO3SI/AAAAAAAAF2I/hJXOFQA7X30/s2048/Photo%25252020161030164832399.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4NjOr9GhgAs/WBZd1HXO3SI/AAAAAAAAF2I/hJXOFQA7X30/s500/Photo%25252020161030164832399.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194775.9275" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EMqgOJf-j8k/WBZd3NA0dhI/AAAAAAAAF2M/zKHaEJ_GLpI/s2048/Photo%25252020161030164832403.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EMqgOJf-j8k/WBZd3NA0dhI/AAAAAAAAF2M/zKHaEJ_GLpI/s500/Photo%25252020161030164832403.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194750.148" class="alignnone" width="500" height="700" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And we visited the town's Romanesque church and (no longer functioning) monastery before making our way to our house in the countryside.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sn9NSZAkbgQ/WBZhnT2rdjI/AAAAAAAAF28/7EVIFcf4Rjo/s2048/Photo%25252020161030170849193.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sn9NSZAkbgQ/WBZhnT2rdjI/AAAAAAAAF28/7EVIFcf4Rjo/s500/Photo%25252020161030170849193.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194733.8796" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">A house along a lane in a tiny farming village </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gJAJQyJGD_I/WBZhdu8iq_I/AAAAAAAAF2o/dQxxuHZHXhs/s2048/Photo%25252020161030170812020.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gJAJQyJGD_I/WBZhdu8iq_I/AAAAAAAAF2o/dQxxuHZHXhs/s500/Photo%25252020161030170812020.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194720.5986" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g7AQn0G3Eb8/WBZhfzHtIwI/AAAAAAAAF2s/jCGM9LhGYHY/s2048/Photo%25252020161030170812024.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g7AQn0G3Eb8/WBZhfzHtIwI/AAAAAAAAF2s/jCGM9LhGYHY/s500/Photo%25252020161030170812024.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194771.3887" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p>In the midst of fields with the pungent smells of country life </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-whcvLg2krhY/WBZhjlg1y2I/AAAAAAAAF20/xgmcXoFghro/s1536/Photo%25252020161030170812032.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-whcvLg2krhY/WBZhjlg1y2I/AAAAAAAAF20/xgmcXoFghro/s500/Photo%25252020161030170812032.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194820.1484" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><p> A house we couldn't find without first rendezvousing with our host at the bar along the "main" road and following her along a narrow lane to the edge of the village.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bjm982Tn1-Y/WBZhh6yTiFI/AAAAAAAAF2w/NdSSS7NNK-4/s2048/Photo%25252020161030170812028.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bjm982Tn1-Y/WBZhh6yTiFI/AAAAAAAAF2w/NdSSS7NNK-4/s500/Photo%25252020161030170812028.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194777.109" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Where Amanda put together a meal for us with ingredients purchased in the nearest town, including hake cut to her order by the fish monger in the supermarket, and fresh figs just pulled from the tree in the garden.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-72UpAzIPn8I/WBZlaDGbDuI/AAAAAAAAF3U/Cl8ivnGFYgo/s2048/Photo%25252020161030172525400.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-72UpAzIPn8I/WBZlaDGbDuI/AAAAAAAAF3U/Cl8ivnGFYgo/s500/Photo%25252020161030172525400.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194737.808" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><p> Knowing of our interest in food and plan to next visit San Sebastián, our host pushed us to drive into the city of Santander for lunch, as she maintained that the food was just as good and cost half of what we would pay in San Sebastián.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bgeynmkiN9o/WBZlY0YADzI/AAAAAAAAF3Q/tYu3nGblXUw/s2048/Photo%25252020161030172525394.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bgeynmkiN9o/WBZlY0YADzI/AAAAAAAAF3Q/tYu3nGblXUw/s500/Photo%25252020161030172525394.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194770.9995" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> So, we took the plunge and had a great meal</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4AaK7OHMdiw/WBZmnzunqqI/AAAAAAAAF3k/zd2_eE8JTXE/s1220/Photo%25252020161030173055683.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4AaK7OHMdiw/WBZmnzunqqI/AAAAAAAAF3k/zd2_eE8JTXE/s500/Photo%25252020161030173055683.jpg" id="blogsy-1477864194763.5054" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">At a restaurant that hands out a little dictionary with the names of foods in eight languages. We think we'll keep it!</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-36147957671076999662016-10-30T07:09:00.000-07:002016-10-30T07:09:02.013-07:00Bilbao and the Beginning of the Basque Country<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dbUfPdJnu5Y/WBSiKsqkNMI/AAAAAAAAFww/0RoFacUJDcY/s2048/Photo%25252020161029091913178.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dbUfPdJnu5Y/WBSiKsqkNMI/AAAAAAAAFww/0RoFacUJDcY/s500/Photo%25252020161029091913178.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941936.8237" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Let's face it, most people come to Bilbao to see the Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim Museum.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RzfLXl3uRo0/WBSiMtdMeLI/AAAAAAAAFw0/5OzareoXCdo/s2048/Photo%25252020161029091907732.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RzfLXl3uRo0/WBSiMtdMeLI/AAAAAAAAFw0/5OzareoXCdo/s500/Photo%25252020161029091907732.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941980.919" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And to groan at the huge flower covered dog</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ANMDXBssya4/WBSiPeZnpcI/AAAAAAAAFw4/CEP8MVV4tcw/s2048/Photo%25252020161029091907799.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ANMDXBssya4/WBSiPeZnpcI/AAAAAAAAFw4/CEP8MVV4tcw/s500/Photo%25252020161029091907799.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942000.6113" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Created by (it's not hard to guess) Jeff Koons.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VwzTUFel2Qg/WBSiRa9oFSI/AAAAAAAAFw8/ZyD965KjFcU/s2048/Photo%25252020161029091907794.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VwzTUFel2Qg/WBSiRa9oFSI/AAAAAAAAFw8/ZyD965KjFcU/s500/Photo%25252020161029091907794.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942002.9272" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> That was certainly the case when we planned the trip with our friends Philip and Catherine.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XwBwHfFnSsk/WBSjpq07B4I/AAAAAAAAFxI/yOyFVwRqjdM/s2048/Photo%25252020161029092559417.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XwBwHfFnSsk/WBSjpq07B4I/AAAAAAAAFxI/yOyFVwRqjdM/s500/Photo%25252020161029092559417.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942008.8613" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KLtOeEHsGsM/WBSjvupm9mI/AAAAAAAAFxU/K5f5AgtwBoI/s2048/Photo%25252020161029092559432.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KLtOeEHsGsM/WBSjvupm9mI/AAAAAAAAFxU/K5f5AgtwBoI/s500/Photo%25252020161029092559432.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942026.3586" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">After all, it is a beautiful thing to behold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jHLVosp5et4/WBSjrpZi4pI/AAAAAAAAFxM/jF-BBAyJrQ8/s2048/Photo%25252020161029092559411.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jHLVosp5et4/WBSjrpZi4pI/AAAAAAAAFxM/jF-BBAyJrQ8/s500/Photo%25252020161029092559411.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941997.6082" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y9O1JNrYznY/WBSjtz9a2tI/AAAAAAAAFxQ/5UgkUaEohrc/s2048/Photo%25252020161029092559423.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y9O1JNrYznY/WBSjtz9a2tI/AAAAAAAAFxQ/5UgkUaEohrc/s500/Photo%25252020161029092559423.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942024.5603" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WD6IJ6JYd04/WBSjz9iKxII/AAAAAAAAFxc/VOnPZ8Xuxqk/s2048/Photo%25252020161029092559445.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WD6IJ6JYd04/WBSjz9iKxII/AAAAAAAAFxc/VOnPZ8Xuxqk/s500/Photo%25252020161029092559445.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941985.5605" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VO6ndHcf6fM/WBSjxxnGrMI/AAAAAAAAFxY/QcyH4fnz8DU/s2048/Photo%25252020161029092559427.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VO6ndHcf6fM/WBSjxxnGrMI/AAAAAAAAFxY/QcyH4fnz8DU/s500/Photo%25252020161029092559427.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942028.7046" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And provides oodles of visual interest along the river in the heart of the city.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lQJuXjx6zvk/WBSk0ps6hmI/AAAAAAAAFxk/B97Em6_OBKI/s1985/Photo%25252020161029093114676.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lQJuXjx6zvk/WBSk0ps6hmI/AAAAAAAAFxk/B97Em6_OBKI/s500/Photo%25252020161029093114676.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942035.6255" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It has also done a remarkably effective job in spurring the revitalization of this mountain-wrapped, industrial port city (founded in 1300) that is the gateway to Basque Country.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d1HD6CPLVTM/WBSl9kLDBwI/AAAAAAAAFxw/MllK8DM8Bwg/s2048/Photo%25252020161029093557035.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d1HD6CPLVTM/WBSl9kLDBwI/AAAAAAAAFxw/MllK8DM8Bwg/s500/Photo%25252020161029093557035.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941937.826" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qmx8hTf5gPA/WBSl_9_a7MI/AAAAAAAAFx0/XKY0XXfkyH4/s2048/Photo%25252020161029093557030.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qmx8hTf5gPA/WBSl_9_a7MI/AAAAAAAAFx0/XKY0XXfkyH4/s500/Photo%25252020161029093557030.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942006.577" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q3bL3IdXJWM/WBSmB3KTzZI/AAAAAAAAFx4/-BNDuwH0l38/s2048/Photo%25252020161029093618054.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q3bL3IdXJWM/WBSmB3KTzZI/AAAAAAAAFx4/-BNDuwH0l38/s500/Photo%25252020161029093618054.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942007.288" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dOo1OZwkzC4/WBSmDwmJl7I/AAAAAAAAFx8/qPNuYRQj6vw/s2048/Photo%25252020161029093618059.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dOo1OZwkzC4/WBSmDwmJl7I/AAAAAAAAFx8/qPNuYRQj6vw/s500/Photo%25252020161029093618059.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942002.3918" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CUjfkYi-ORM/WBSmF_O4SbI/AAAAAAAAFyA/VnNcswWc0kU/s2048/Photo%25252020161029093618063.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CUjfkYi-ORM/WBSmF_O4SbI/AAAAAAAAFyA/VnNcswWc0kU/s500/Photo%25252020161029093618063.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941949.375" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The recently spruced up market, further along the river by the old part of the city, is also a great place to feast on tapas or pintxos (in Basque). Sitting in a common area, you check out the wares at the different vendors and try different plates of extravagant compositions. There are lots of anchovies.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WGvsV9_83WQ/WBSnsf9aCCI/AAAAAAAAFyU/8f-i5ARzBew/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094312162.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WGvsV9_83WQ/WBSnsf9aCCI/AAAAAAAAFyU/8f-i5ARzBew/s500/Photo%25252020161029094312162.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942023.3262" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ST_vlMBaWx0/WBSnuY3nx5I/AAAAAAAAFyY/V_l4fCdb1sw/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094312155.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ST_vlMBaWx0/WBSnuY3nx5I/AAAAAAAAFyY/V_l4fCdb1sw/s500/Photo%25252020161029094312155.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941984.6868" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="357"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A0SX8LU2xAo/WBSnwL1U1HI/AAAAAAAAFyc/cW8u-aHM7IQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094336414.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A0SX8LU2xAo/WBSnwL1U1HI/AAAAAAAAFyc/cW8u-aHM7IQ/s500/Photo%25252020161029094336414.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942014.4067" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vm4iCDwvcYE/WBSnyFW7n1I/AAAAAAAAFyg/it5c9ro-ZaE/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094336417.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vm4iCDwvcYE/WBSnyFW7n1I/AAAAAAAAFyg/it5c9ro-ZaE/s500/Photo%25252020161029094336417.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942047.2915" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="668"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W1EO6wWUK-Y/WBSn0Bw6RlI/AAAAAAAAFyk/VW5605X86ao/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094336426.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W1EO6wWUK-Y/WBSn0Bw6RlI/AAAAAAAAFyk/VW5605X86ao/s500/Photo%25252020161029094336426.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942043.897" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVaH4zijhZ99L-aUWJ-miPxhoQIl_LDQ7Xu5oW8k5QlSttmOVycOiTUZvSC7POllW2zKhP9UMZZ-RTvhWNHHFTR1vNZtJPmCy8Ee5sL68V12shkNqMnvD3QICyGuTLhvwRIsfVQSCg7vbS/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094336435.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVaH4zijhZ99L-aUWJ-miPxhoQIl_LDQ7Xu5oW8k5QlSttmOVycOiTUZvSC7POllW2zKhP9UMZZ-RTvhWNHHFTR1vNZtJPmCy8Ee5sL68V12shkNqMnvD3QICyGuTLhvwRIsfVQSCg7vbS/s500/Photo%25252020161029094336435.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942037.5862" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5-raQcap0sI/WBSn6FQMlAI/AAAAAAAAFyw/TBvla5Lb3Fo/s2048/Photo%25252020161029094336445.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5-raQcap0sI/WBSn6FQMlAI/AAAAAAAAFyw/TBvla5Lb3Fo/s500/Photo%25252020161029094336445.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941982.4783" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Wandering the city has its own visual rewards. This last imposing looking palace was, in fact, a palace. Philip and Jim walked in and talked with the guard who explained that the building houses the official presence of Spain in the city. Hmmm. We understand that both the Basque territory (comprised in a few different provinces) and Catalonia have more autonomy than other provinces.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-APTtUZ7_Sv4/WBSp2A_n3oI/AAAAAAAAFzE/YGRxJ5ruD-w/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095258282.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-APTtUZ7_Sv4/WBSp2A_n3oI/AAAAAAAAFzE/YGRxJ5ruD-w/s500/Photo%25252020161029095258282.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942025.6523" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We also visited the Basque museum where this iconic representation of Basque identity is given pride of place. Looks kind of like a . . . some kind of a . . . boar (?) with a disc. It's known as the Mikeldi and is from the Iron Age.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ONN4Nw1Y4Cg/WBSp4SPLgfI/AAAAAAAAFzI/VuR_bgpSYF0/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095258286.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ONN4Nw1Y4Cg/WBSp4SPLgfI/AAAAAAAAFzI/VuR_bgpSYF0/s500/Photo%25252020161029095258286.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941971.9" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The museum features displays on the seafaring and shepherding life of the Basque (who curiously have a cultural center in Boise, Idaho where many Basque seem to wind up). This wolf trap was easier to understand in a museum with signage only in Basque and Spanish. It was also grimly interesting.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jNVpkL5BTC4/WBSqn5qmt-I/AAAAAAAAFzM/SgMiSA-OT5I/s1503/Photo%25252020161029095544659.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jNVpkL5BTC4/WBSqn5qmt-I/AAAAAAAAFzM/SgMiSA-OT5I/s500/Photo%25252020161029095544659.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942035.2705" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CoJSe1ZV7OI/WBSqp8O6quI/AAAAAAAAFzQ/9-DWyNRgVBM/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095544678.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CoJSe1ZV7OI/WBSqp8O6quI/AAAAAAAAFzQ/9-DWyNRgVBM/s500/Photo%25252020161029095544678.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942007.558" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x_JjUcjvDSU/WBSqr12a7qI/AAAAAAAAFzU/Fxn3McqeEiA/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095544673.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x_JjUcjvDSU/WBSqr12a7qI/AAAAAAAAFzU/Fxn3McqeEiA/s500/Photo%25252020161029095544673.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941961.272" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xdN8bA4i7DY/WBSqt6rnlNI/AAAAAAAAFzc/KmxakKXBDgw/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095544663.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xdN8bA4i7DY/WBSqt6rnlNI/AAAAAAAAFzc/KmxakKXBDgw/s500/Photo%25252020161029095544663.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941977.772" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N3n1WBEyaVg/WBSqyb9uhoI/AAAAAAAAFzk/iO4QSM7A9hU/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095544654.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N3n1WBEyaVg/WBSqyb9uhoI/AAAAAAAAFzk/iO4QSM7A9hU/s500/Photo%25252020161029095544654.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942004.4277" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ldvu2jF-h7U/WBSqwZOAhmI/AAAAAAAAFzg/O6omLe98VEM/s2048/Photo%25252020161029095544669.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ldvu2jF-h7U/WBSqwZOAhmI/AAAAAAAAFzg/O6omLe98VEM/s500/Photo%25252020161029095544669.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942030.4097" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, back to that art theme suggested by the Guggenheim - don't expect a lot of art inside Mr. Gehry's sculptural tour-de-force. For one thing, the design doesn't allow much interior exhibit space (although there are some interesting installations that make a visit worthwhile). To see art in Bilbao, all you need to do is go next door to the art museum where the collection is varied and of a very high quality. We enjoyed it quite a bit, especially because we saw artists with whom we weren't as familiar, such as Joaquin Sorolla (the scene of Granada in the last photo).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4fGFx_NceW0/WBUA1lT3z_I/AAAAAAAAF0Q/oWc7Ut32O84/s2048/Photo%25252020161029160349170.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4fGFx_NceW0/WBUA1lT3z_I/AAAAAAAAF0Q/oWc7Ut32O84/s500/Photo%25252020161029160349170.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941971.0833" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> The ceramicist Francisco Durrio</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bKcMprmZkEg/WBUAzpl4-rI/AAAAAAAAF0M/-X1rr4Fy-Eo/s2048/Photo%25252020161029160349167.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bKcMprmZkEg/WBUAzpl4-rI/AAAAAAAAF0M/-X1rr4Fy-Eo/s500/Photo%25252020161029160349167.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942023.0186" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Dario de Regoyas</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hu2IEAAVTkg/WBUAxYjqZAI/AAAAAAAAF0I/zxD8rhOcgpM/s2048/Photo%25252020161029160349160.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hu2IEAAVTkg/WBUAxYjqZAI/AAAAAAAAF0I/zxD8rhOcgpM/s500/Photo%25252020161029160349160.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834941987.435" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hY4p3Rokhlk/WBUBYUyIyQI/AAAAAAAAF0U/4vWgrY_tSj0/s2048/Photo%25252020161029160631961.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hY4p3Rokhlk/WBUBYUyIyQI/AAAAAAAAF0U/4vWgrY_tSj0/s500/Photo%25252020161029160631961.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942029.926" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_IfnFDo467s/WBUBaujo-5I/AAAAAAAAF0Y/mJWsZG2eOD0/s2048/Photo%25252020161029160631971.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_IfnFDo467s/WBUBaujo-5I/AAAAAAAAF0Y/mJWsZG2eOD0/s500/Photo%25252020161029160631971.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942048.4465" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And some interesting pieces from the 15th and 16th centuries. Something for everyone. By the way, the enormous painting of the matador by Ignatio Zuloaga is on loan from the Hispanic Society of America. Interesting.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q8nA2vM9FGQ/WBX2tEtsPfI/AAAAAAAAF00/grvCtO_0l6U/s350/Photo%25252020161030093321322.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q8nA2vM9FGQ/WBX2tEtsPfI/AAAAAAAAF00/grvCtO_0l6U/s350/Photo%25252020161030093321322.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942017.1567" class="alignnone" alt="" width="350" height="157"></a><span style="text-align: center;"> </span></div><p> No, Picasso's Guernica is not in Bilbao. Having lived its own life in exile until it was reluctantly returned by the MoMA to Spain under the terms of Picasso's will, it is now installed in its own gallery in Madrid. However, the art museum in Bilbao (not far from the town of Guernica, "Gernika" in Basque) maintains a fascinating exhibit of a number of Picasso's sketches for the work, as well as other anti-war art, including some pieces inspired by Picasso's work.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_S2gEK3BZHg/WBX2vNYdHCI/AAAAAAAAF04/9cX0Ecv2NWs/s2048/Photo%25252020161030093321318.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_S2gEK3BZHg/WBX2vNYdHCI/AAAAAAAAF04/9cX0Ecv2NWs/s500/Photo%25252020161030093321318.jpg" id="blogsy-1477834942018.869" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">These included an untitled painting by Jackson Pollack from 1951 in a size (roughly 12"x15") we weren't used to seeing from him.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In yet another proof of the theory of "six degrees of separation," we later met an American (Frank, or "Patxo") in a cooking class in San Sebastián (or "Donostia" in Basque) whose mother hid in an orchard during the attack on Guernica by Italian Fascist and Nazi German warplanes (at the request of Franco and the Spanish Nationalists).</div>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-90023400738852854972016-10-28T11:55:00.000-07:002016-10-28T11:55:44.792-07:00A Day on the Mountain of Montserrat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t1meAZpAN2M/WBOSbpqxGnI/AAAAAAAAFvQ/mhrPIb7tp6g/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020674.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t1meAZpAN2M/WBOSbpqxGnI/AAAAAAAAFvQ/mhrPIb7tp6g/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020674.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302297.0347" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Getting to the Abbey of Santa Maria de Montserrat has an element of drama. We started with a metro ride to the train station, then a train to the cable car station, and finally a ride up the mountain in the little yellow box.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AsFN8RXgh-U/WBOSZn3ctNI/AAAAAAAAFvM/pckSV7JkeXY/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020667.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AsFN8RXgh-U/WBOSZn3ctNI/AAAAAAAAFvM/pckSV7JkeXY/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020667.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302293.7239" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tTuwCfGS0Ws/WBOSXfBTe9I/AAAAAAAAFvI/x0UefUDl5QA/s1607/Photo%25252020161028140020639.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tTuwCfGS0Ws/WBOSXfBTe9I/AAAAAAAAFvI/x0UefUDl5QA/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020639.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302355.196" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WtEPvROI858/WBOSfOIy0JI/AAAAAAAAFvY/M4T55nUzsLM/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020689.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WtEPvROI858/WBOSfOIy0JI/AAAAAAAAFvY/M4T55nUzsLM/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020689.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302311.4866" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It affords a good view. "Montserrat" is, of course, "serrated mountain" and its name seems apt enough.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6lRaj8b9Sm8/WBOShb-rJ7I/AAAAAAAAFvc/xAMyPhLo3zE/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020697.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6lRaj8b9Sm8/WBOShb-rJ7I/AAAAAAAAFvc/xAMyPhLo3zE/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020697.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302365.9438" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">There are also funiculars and a cog railway. Apparently, there is also a road. Whether that affords more or less of a sense of adventure we couldn't say without checking it out. It does seem like cheating, though.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5VgrkFhRwhg/WBOSji722OI/AAAAAAAAFvg/ZhaSy85H8ls/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020705.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5VgrkFhRwhg/WBOSji722OI/AAAAAAAAFvg/ZhaSy85H8ls/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020705.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302286.6484" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> The Benedictine monastery was founded in the 10th century and still has over 150 monks in residence. We didn't see any. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xlpf27Krp1s/WBOSl2jIztI/AAAAAAAAFvk/V64ObdPZv2Q/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020710.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xlpf27Krp1s/WBOSl2jIztI/AAAAAAAAFvk/V64ObdPZv2Q/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020710.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302358.984" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> The Abbey has played an important role in the religious and political life of Catalonia. In more recent times, the monks were persecuted during the Civil War by Republican forces and then also persecuted by Franco given their ties to Catalan separatists and left wing politics and habit of providing sanctuary.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GhmJEY21Ddo/WBOSn2boFXI/AAAAAAAAFvo/kBpptdYLhCw/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020717.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GhmJEY21Ddo/WBOSn2boFXI/AAAAAAAAFvo/kBpptdYLhCw/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020717.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302332.5903" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a><span style="text-align: center;"> </span></div><p> In a basilica partly built into the mountain, the Virgin of Montserrat is the principle attraction for both the curious and the faithful. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hrKjhuxoyfo/WBOciLdvPTI/AAAAAAAAFwA/2Ka32C7JWyo/s171/Photo%25252020161028144412321.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hrKjhuxoyfo/WBOciLdvPTI/AAAAAAAAFwA/2Ka32C7JWyo/s171/Photo%25252020161028144412321.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302326.0554" class="alignnone" alt="" width="171" height="170"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">(Thank you to Wikipedia for the image.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">She is a likely-Romanesque statue of Mary holding an infant Jesus with blackened skin, known as the Black Madonna or La Moreneta. Various legends are attached to the statue, including that it was carved during the early days of the Church in Jerusalem and spirited away for safe keeping in the 8th century. Even in the middle of October there was a long line as people made their way along a passageway that led behind the altar to an elevated area overlooking the interior of the church. There the Madonna was behind glass, except for her hand which can be touched or kissed in veneration.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z1EVFSTwgb8/WBOSp58YSII/AAAAAAAAFvs/4XdpDhHNRcY/s2048/Photo%25252020161028140020726.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z1EVFSTwgb8/WBOSp58YSII/AAAAAAAAFvs/4XdpDhHNRcY/s500/Photo%25252020161028140020726.jpg" id="blogsy-1477680302359.133" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">After mailing a postcard, it was down the mountain and back to Barcelona.</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-24873948879556865052016-10-28T10:36:00.000-07:002016-10-28T10:36:27.535-07:00Miro, Picasso & the Essence of Catalonia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4nuNeVojjeY/WBNOIs3ppNI/AAAAAAAAFrg/5ShzRknoWy4/s2048/Photo%25252020161028090900016.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4nuNeVojjeY/WBNOIs3ppNI/AAAAAAAAFrg/5ShzRknoWy4/s500/Photo%25252020161028090900016.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100439.0347" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="889"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><span style="text-align: right;">It is that white star in a blue triangle that changes the Catalan flag into a separatist flag. You see them often, as it had been our intent to visit the two regions of Spain that don't really want to be a part of Spain: Catalonia and the Basque Country.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qRyoH57wmO4/WBNOK4CY02I/AAAAAAAAFrk/3bPWgwYPfRA/s2048/Photo%25252020161028090900041.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qRyoH57wmO4/WBNOK4CY02I/AAAAAAAAFrk/3bPWgwYPfRA/s500/Photo%25252020161028090900041.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100382.8252" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S-KIGRytgg4/WBNONzu_fDI/AAAAAAAAFro/d4mLoydU4wo/s2048/Photo%25252020161028090900021.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S-KIGRytgg4/WBNONzu_fDI/AAAAAAAAFro/d4mLoydU4wo/s500/Photo%25252020161028090900021.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100465.078" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VckjY-Iw3jA/WBNOPr7p0XI/AAAAAAAAFrs/prMJuq3ESP8/s2048/Photo%25252020161028090900030.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VckjY-Iw3jA/WBNOPr7p0XI/AAAAAAAAFrs/prMJuq3ESP8/s500/Photo%25252020161028090900030.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100398.685" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9wuAvvfaShs/WBNOR1r1QAI/AAAAAAAAFrw/N3pXX3_95pM/s2048/Photo%25252020161028090900034.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9wuAvvfaShs/WBNOR1r1QAI/AAAAAAAAFrw/N3pXX3_95pM/s500/Photo%25252020161028090900034.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100454.8862" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6vadxft2NVU/WBNOTxwZ_0I/AAAAAAAAFr0/SYFdkQvFB6k/s2048/Photo%25252020161028090900025.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6vadxft2NVU/WBNOTxwZ_0I/AAAAAAAAFr0/SYFdkQvFB6k/s500/Photo%25252020161028090900025.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100456.162" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Barcelona has long been the vibrant heart of Catalonia. It's currently one of the "it" cities of Europe, full of energy and personality. It was that cultural energy that drew 15 year old Pablo Picasso to Barcelona in 1896 from his native Malaga and kept him anchored to Spain as he maintained residences in both Barcelona and Paris until his self-exile in 1939 when Francisco Franco prevailed in the Spanish Civil War (remember Picasso's 1937 painting of Guernica?). From exile he donated hundreds of his early works and some works of his final years (The Pigeons series) to a dedicated Picasso museum in Barcelona which Franco forbade to bear Picasso's name. Picasso never saw the museum because he died before Franco met his own end. Our visit (no photographs allowed) was somewhat disappointing. The early works clearly show his gifts, but the collection somehow seemed as if it were comprised of all the paintings that didn't sell. So, it was interesting, but not inspiring.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N0RpXZC4iSE/WBNSimpsgOI/AAAAAAAAFsE/M65jDJZqrWM/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716193.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N0RpXZC4iSE/WBNSimpsgOI/AAAAAAAAFsE/M65jDJZqrWM/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716193.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100410.698" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We went up to the Monjuic neighborhood to visit the Joan Miro Foundation out of a sense of obligation to check out another museum dedicated to another acknowledged modern master, even though we had low expectations. We had a different kind of experience. We liked it. This 1919 painting (Miro was 26) of the village of Mont-roig captures Miro's interest in primitivism, his Catalan roots, nature and the objects of everyday life.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yPXh2dqNU24/WBNSktIQnrI/AAAAAAAAFsI/TVJCZZIUv_U/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716205.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yPXh2dqNU24/WBNSktIQnrI/AAAAAAAAFsI/TVJCZZIUv_U/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716205.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100450.216" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">From there on the canvas continues to loosen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pYwXhxE5E9g/WBNSmkpEreI/AAAAAAAAFsM/gPyf_2RTeQA/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716212.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pYwXhxE5E9g/WBNSmkpEreI/AAAAAAAAFsM/gPyf_2RTeQA/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716212.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100394.3335" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jyS8uck2lHE/WBNSoD5U4lI/AAAAAAAAFsQ/t7r1JFPgFaA/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716218.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jyS8uck2lHE/WBNSoD5U4lI/AAAAAAAAFsQ/t7r1JFPgFaA/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716218.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100449.451" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8g3kr1nba5_lk6reNtLtJ5A95b0uplbt1xv9Y-JENZS_9pKFl6TWI74epy7mFpoCHRow0M0zWMAeQURCV8mySPgLwfAxufvSzD73xvjQT4AhYIwGS7O_EU7veKptBKqo_MYyvMBHzmMvn/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716224.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8g3kr1nba5_lk6reNtLtJ5A95b0uplbt1xv9Y-JENZS_9pKFl6TWI74epy7mFpoCHRow0M0zWMAeQURCV8mySPgLwfAxufvSzD73xvjQT4AhYIwGS7O_EU7veKptBKqo_MYyvMBHzmMvn/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716224.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100412.0708" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFdR8vcH4otP0jzyfrKASj4zYqswQQTAVQDZGlhyphenhyphenDe-roBFf8H8i8SpzLcbdV9TQ1cQ3BZuRzhnu08sRkLtwZqC1baAfAaTgkVEukYd7hc1HzGLFTYAod6LDGJea9Aios-MEGOs3S9Ifs/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716229.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFdR8vcH4otP0jzyfrKASj4zYqswQQTAVQDZGlhyphenhyphenDe-roBFf8H8i8SpzLcbdV9TQ1cQ3BZuRzhnu08sRkLtwZqC1baAfAaTgkVEukYd7hc1HzGLFTYAod6LDGJea9Aios-MEGOs3S9Ifs/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716229.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100451.478" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Miro often thought of his art as "anti-painting," although he also said: "I make no distinction between painting and poetry."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qOPRsWFqx1c/WBNSuaT5R5I/AAAAAAAAFsc/Y3ueQLCKSNM/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716237.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qOPRsWFqx1c/WBNSuaT5R5I/AAAAAAAAFsc/Y3ueQLCKSNM/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716237.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100459.1323" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-18Ib_XxAM2U/WBNSwXnTB1I/AAAAAAAAFsg/xGg_1u8CkcI/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716244.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-18Ib_XxAM2U/WBNSwXnTB1I/AAAAAAAAFsg/xGg_1u8CkcI/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716244.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100497.4053" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tk5d_ye3qHk/WBOMGBJkywI/AAAAAAAAFu0/rTdQfrsyiso/s2048/Photo%25252020161028133353139.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tk5d_ye3qHk/WBOMGBJkywI/AAAAAAAAFu0/rTdQfrsyiso/s500/Photo%25252020161028133353139.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100417.339" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PIkkXqnKHso/WBOMH6Zh7BI/AAAAAAAAFu4/zZF3pWjwxsY/s2048/Photo%25252020161028133353142.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PIkkXqnKHso/WBOMH6Zh7BI/AAAAAAAAFu4/zZF3pWjwxsY/s500/Photo%25252020161028133353142.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100502.35" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> He was fascinated with body language and graffiti. He was also influenced by Japanese art and the approach to calligraphy characterized by rapid execution following a period of intense concentration. He visited Japan a couple of times, as well as the United States where he met with the abstract expressionists, including Pollack.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PdL4oZeR2Q4/WBNSyDZ9edI/AAAAAAAAFsk/Cz3PfOWubvc/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716251.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PdL4oZeR2Q4/WBNSyDZ9edI/AAAAAAAAFsk/Cz3PfOWubvc/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716251.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100415.708" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8qXeazYo8Zw/WBNS0GR0emI/AAAAAAAAFso/BMcsz4iJS54/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716258.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8qXeazYo8Zw/WBNS0GR0emI/AAAAAAAAFso/BMcsz4iJS54/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716258.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100420.5078" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-95tX91Ybl1c/WBNS11CXQuI/AAAAAAAAFss/FxrMmSoIN-E/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716265.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-95tX91Ybl1c/WBNS11CXQuI/AAAAAAAAFss/FxrMmSoIN-E/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716265.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100451.547" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UvPSU5awuUw/WBNS378BSPI/AAAAAAAAFsw/Haja1UFHHFo/s2048/Photo%25252020161028092716271.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UvPSU5awuUw/WBNS378BSPI/AAAAAAAAFsw/Haja1UFHHFo/s500/Photo%25252020161028092716271.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100415.5989" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> The beauty of the Miro Foundation museum is that it actually does provide such as wide perspective on his work that you begin to have the illusion that you understand him.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xzVmcZhQmcM/WBNY3f5BtEI/AAAAAAAAFtE/vMgHGTnFjoI/s2048/Photo%25252020161028095428717.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xzVmcZhQmcM/WBNY3f5BtEI/AAAAAAAAFtE/vMgHGTnFjoI/s500/Photo%25252020161028095428717.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100487.4453" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> From the Miro Foundation we walked over to the National Art Museum of Catalonia with its commanding view of the city (hi, Catherine!).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1HZdCm4SKAY/WBNnRjkyZhI/AAAAAAAAFts/QPS1Bgci9Kw/s2048/Photo%25252020161028105644493.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1HZdCm4SKAY/WBNnRjkyZhI/AAAAAAAAFts/QPS1Bgci9Kw/s500/Photo%25252020161028105644493.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100424.4" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Among other things, the Catalan museum houses the preeminent collection of Romanesque Art in Europe, featuring murals and panels from rural Catalan churches from the 11th - 13th centuries. In the early twentieth century, a mass purchase of the art was being orchestrated by American institutions. The Catalan government stepped in and organized a conservation effort to preserve them for Catalonia.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h_oEGAEVVoY/WBNY5g3AjXI/AAAAAAAAFtI/D9B1kfKbXbQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161028095428722.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h_oEGAEVVoY/WBNY5g3AjXI/AAAAAAAAFtI/D9B1kfKbXbQ/s500/Photo%25252020161028095428722.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100462.6118" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mvWe3HHN9wE/WBNY7yfe1CI/AAAAAAAAFtM/XtCVw8pR0EY/s2048/Photo%25252020161028095428727.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mvWe3HHN9wE/WBNY7yfe1CI/AAAAAAAAFtM/XtCVw8pR0EY/s500/Photo%25252020161028095428727.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100428.957" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tY2ZFxJ3C60/WBNY9-Tss9I/AAAAAAAAFtQ/mvG52er_eOs/s2048/Photo%25252020161028095428732.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tY2ZFxJ3C60/WBNY9-Tss9I/AAAAAAAAFtQ/mvG52er_eOs/s500/Photo%25252020161028095428732.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100473.6365" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_I8BbpJu6Lc/WBNZADq2TYI/AAAAAAAAFtU/3nCjmzSLqIY/s2048/Photo%25252020161028095428736.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_I8BbpJu6Lc/WBNZADq2TYI/AAAAAAAAFtU/3nCjmzSLqIY/s500/Photo%25252020161028095428736.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100418.8547" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7fze8UigkgM/WBNZB3qLD7I/AAAAAAAAFtY/bwNzorx8eWk/s2048/Photo%25252020161028095428739.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7fze8UigkgM/WBNZB3qLD7I/AAAAAAAAFtY/bwNzorx8eWk/s500/Photo%25252020161028095428739.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100470.204" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> It's again a very impressive collection that, makes you reassess how you feel about an entire epoque in art.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QIgurEGglDs/WBNpJaUUAAI/AAAAAAAAFt8/PSPunJTcYgs/s2048/Photo%25252020161028110418362.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QIgurEGglDs/WBNpJaUUAAI/AAAAAAAAFt8/PSPunJTcYgs/s500/Photo%25252020161028110418362.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100420.9377" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Our heads filled with art, we headed down towards the Placa d'Espanya</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rmA-4h6mv2w/WBNpLm8nAkI/AAAAAAAAFuA/gMv9Txr6XWo/s2048/Photo%25252020161028110429073.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rmA-4h6mv2w/WBNpLm8nAkI/AAAAAAAAFuA/gMv9Txr6XWo/s500/Photo%25252020161028110429073.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100423.0637" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BDZZ-LJAuyw/WBNqO3-3jDI/AAAAAAAAFuI/SdxQQkv9xHM/s2048/Photo%25252020161028110929384.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BDZZ-LJAuyw/WBNqO3-3jDI/AAAAAAAAFuI/SdxQQkv9xHM/s500/Photo%25252020161028110929384.jpg" id="blogsy-1477676100424.89" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="281"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And the heart of Barcelona.</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-74966109156044788822016-10-27T16:00:00.000-07:002016-10-28T04:33:22.275-07:00The Modernist Masterpieces of Barcelona<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yls3YuOFe4E/WBIZJAxAuvI/AAAAAAAAFnY/bV1OlCMvRL0/s2048/Photo%25252020161027111054080.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yls3YuOFe4E/WBIZJAxAuvI/AAAAAAAAFnY/bV1OlCMvRL0/s500/Photo%25252020161027111054080.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403094.3013" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dbi6eRSeLRk/WBIZE-OgXEI/AAAAAAAAFnQ/xh4laFM5x-M/s2048/Photo%25252020161027111054070.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dbi6eRSeLRk/WBIZE-OgXEI/AAAAAAAAFnQ/xh4laFM5x-M/s500/Photo%25252020161027111054070.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403056.9377" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> It was thanks to a street demonstration (no one could tell us why) that we had a view of two of the modernist masterpieces of Barcelona, unobstructed by trucks, buses or cars whizzing by.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOR366owoY8/WBIXo8BYcoI/AAAAAAAAFm0/OxDo99lwRh0/s2048/Photo%25252020161027110426664.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOR366owoY8/WBIXo8BYcoI/AAAAAAAAFm0/OxDo99lwRh0/s500/Photo%25252020161027110426664.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403084.6191" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S8MaTFrVfbc/WBIXr6unW4I/AAAAAAAAFm4/TlcUSOYC03Y/s1862/Photo%25252020161027110426651.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S8MaTFrVfbc/WBIXr6unW4I/AAAAAAAAFm4/TlcUSOYC03Y/s500/Photo%25252020161027110426651.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403020.2175" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RpUor-8m7uQ/WBIXtrM22fI/AAAAAAAAFm8/YP462WBUkRM/s2048/Photo%25252020161027110426660.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RpUor-8m7uQ/WBIXtrM22fI/AAAAAAAAFm8/YP462WBUkRM/s500/Photo%25252020161027110426660.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403023.435" class="alignnone" width="500" height="889" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Nearby our apartment in the Eixample neighborhood, on Passeig de Gracia, two masterpieces of Antoni Gaudi (on the right) and Joseph Puig i Cadafalch stand side by side. The ubiquitous "A's" in the Puig window ornamentation commemorates his client, the Amattler family. Two doors down, but difficult to photograph, is a gorgeous house by Lluis Domenech i Montaner (otherwise, well-represented, below).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CGjJBofvwx0/WBIXwO8ZUtI/AAAAAAAAFnA/OrUXhTwHzuA/s2048/Photo%25252020161027110426669.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CGjJBofvwx0/WBIXwO8ZUtI/AAAAAAAAFnA/OrUXhTwHzuA/s500/Photo%25252020161027110426669.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403030.7903" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dh1eyd-T8Rs/WBIXyEYNFwI/AAAAAAAAFnE/ybUNq9KA74o/s2048/Photo%25252020161027110426674.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dh1eyd-T8Rs/WBIXyEYNFwI/AAAAAAAAFnE/ybUNq9KA74o/s500/Photo%25252020161027110426674.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403109.0405" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> We toured Gaudi's La Pedrera, an apartment building whose current tenants must tolerate large crowds gathering out front and touring parts of the building and the roof, where functional components continue to get the Gaudi treatment.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Fw_caXJU4Ik/WBIX0Eyak0I/AAAAAAAAFnI/lPLxTh4-BAQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161027110426678.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Fw_caXJU4Ik/WBIX0Eyak0I/AAAAAAAAFnI/lPLxTh4-BAQ/s500/Photo%25252020161027110426678.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403031.14" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> From the roof, Gaudi's most famous work, La Sagrada Familia, can be seen under construction (as always) in the distance.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cxDtBx989Cw/WBIekKIElBI/AAAAAAAAFn8/GfiXafp9BVM/s2048/Photo%25252020161027113251706.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cxDtBx989Cw/WBIekKIElBI/AAAAAAAAFn8/GfiXafp9BVM/s500/Photo%25252020161027113251706.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403075.2878" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-16FDf5r6q_8/WBIemPDNYCI/AAAAAAAAFoA/Fg0kPCR6J38/s2048/Photo%25252020161027113251716.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-16FDf5r6q_8/WBIemPDNYCI/AAAAAAAAFoA/Fg0kPCR6J38/s500/Photo%25252020161027113251716.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403039.444" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a>'</div><p> The exterior of the cathedral has a few artistically restrained features.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2HtMjbwD8xQ/WBIefRJ3cJI/AAAAAAAAFn0/zcmdVe8daD0/s2048/Photo%25252020161027113251692.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2HtMjbwD8xQ/WBIefRJ3cJI/AAAAAAAAFn0/zcmdVe8daD0/s500/Photo%25252020161027113251692.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403095.6724" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GbVxGpCGgeo/WBIebaVxYUI/AAAAAAAAFns/KzJHI6l99yg/s2048/Photo%25252020161027113251670.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GbVxGpCGgeo/WBIebaVxYUI/AAAAAAAAFns/KzJHI6l99yg/s500/Photo%25252020161027113251670.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403066.9243" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AfR1CKZ8UdY/WBIedpnMksI/AAAAAAAAFnw/7JtTdk3mpYc/s2048/Photo%25252020161027113251682.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AfR1CKZ8UdY/WBIedpnMksI/AAAAAAAAFnw/7JtTdk3mpYc/s500/Photo%25252020161027113251682.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403103.077" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> But, not many. The exterior is exuberant beyond description and a reminder of how we got the English word "gaudy."</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3DNSpxJRStk/WBIhGBAiFrI/AAAAAAAAFos/w9J7FnFx1Zg/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443036.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3DNSpxJRStk/WBIhGBAiFrI/AAAAAAAAFos/w9J7FnFx1Zg/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443036.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403086.6348" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BoKWbMk9RXY/WBIhISNGU4I/AAAAAAAAFow/t4cNZi5Bm3M/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443040.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BoKWbMk9RXY/WBIhISNGU4I/AAAAAAAAFow/t4cNZi5Bm3M/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443040.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403128.131" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> The interior, on the other hand, is an intensely spiritual space, even though packed with hundreds of awestruck tourists craning their necks, transfixed by the magic. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6XweEESal98/WBIhKjt49uI/AAAAAAAAFo0/CpM2pBrd8Vg/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443044.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6XweEESal98/WBIhKjt49uI/AAAAAAAAFo0/CpM2pBrd8Vg/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443044.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403044.392" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8GITmt9XlYU/WBIhM8n4LNI/AAAAAAAAFo4/XpcIUa0vyd8/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443048.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8GITmt9XlYU/WBIhM8n4LNI/AAAAAAAAFo4/XpcIUa0vyd8/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443048.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403055.9788" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ifHgCZmVAmc/WBIhPN0pY-I/AAAAAAAAFo8/RFxbYbEMkRE/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443053.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ifHgCZmVAmc/WBIhPN0pY-I/AAAAAAAAFo8/RFxbYbEMkRE/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443053.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403056.1152" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LeqLGv-BSG8/WBIhRs3ae6I/AAAAAAAAFpA/eW5hXBV3KsY/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443057.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LeqLGv-BSG8/WBIhRs3ae6I/AAAAAAAAFpA/eW5hXBV3KsY/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443057.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403132.871" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UyY1GOG783k/WBIhTrSPVYI/AAAAAAAAFpE/hb54kRjtvUk/s2048/Photo%25252020161027114443061.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UyY1GOG783k/WBIhTrSPVYI/AAAAAAAAFpE/hb54kRjtvUk/s500/Photo%25252020161027114443061.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403134.5752" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> The soaring verticality of the space fulfills Gaudi's vision of the interior as being like a woods to invite prayer, introspection and the taking of the Eucharist. Both inside and out, every detail has a meaning, every architectural feature a liturgical or religious significance. The central tower represents Jesus, four towers surrounding it represent the gospels, when completed (projected for 2026, nearly 150 years after construction commenced) there will be 12 towers representing each of the apostles. You can't help but feel that Gaudi has created a temple without equal in reflecting the magnificent nature of God. It is no still small voice. It is the heavens opening wide in their glory.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pDnBA34CPsk/WBJMGrR9YdI/AAAAAAAAFpo/SFbH0Q1_Rgk/s2048/Photo%25252020161027144819387.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pDnBA34CPsk/WBJMGrR9YdI/AAAAAAAAFpo/SFbH0Q1_Rgk/s500/Photo%25252020161027144819387.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403125.4326" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a>'</div><p> Barcelona's temple of music is the Palao de la Musica. We took a short taxi ride there from our apartment for a performance of flamenco music and dance by a troupe from Malaga.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6KTSHRyk6T0/WBJMI2CoMnI/AAAAAAAAFps/dTojaLWVTl0/s2048/Photo%25252020161027144819394.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6KTSHRyk6T0/WBJMI2CoMnI/AAAAAAAAFps/dTojaLWVTl0/s500/Photo%25252020161027144819394.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403127.3777" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The Palau de la Musica was designed by Lluis Domenech i Montaner, another master of Catalan Modernisme.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7RtRXf_LqC8/WBJMLK-AuwI/AAAAAAAAFpw/uZT6KBlDiQE/s2048/Photo%25252020161027144819400.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7RtRXf_LqC8/WBJMLK-AuwI/AAAAAAAAFpw/uZT6KBlDiQE/s500/Photo%25252020161027144819400.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403144.9338" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9oHIuwGdFQA/WBJMNiKUNuI/AAAAAAAAFp0/Hd97sN2xZfk/s2048/Photo%25252020161027144819406.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9oHIuwGdFQA/WBJMNiKUNuI/AAAAAAAAFp0/Hd97sN2xZfk/s500/Photo%25252020161027144819406.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403130.3125" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> As with most of the modernist architecture we saw, the ornamention on each surface (for instance, each pillar or column) is unique and designs are not repeated.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mbMD4vqotKs/WBJMQB83lDI/AAAAAAAAFp4/yZgjCl1fslc/s2048/Photo%25252020161027144819412.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mbMD4vqotKs/WBJMQB83lDI/AAAAAAAAFp4/yZgjCl1fslc/s500/Photo%25252020161027144819412.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403105.1252" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a>'</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJb8rWOS5uNHOmu59YpLXjTFMOL5ttTTucCzLEyVnW4fdne9alA15474Uc6z8_YWco2C2NJuOpNP2WRW5Ti_Kpa8ad8OTnTWQbpgM2bjMjT9pZxvSdnYo59hr6ixjCWe1crdOIelwAYzcW/s2048/Photo%25252020161027144819418.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJb8rWOS5uNHOmu59YpLXjTFMOL5ttTTucCzLEyVnW4fdne9alA15474Uc6z8_YWco2C2NJuOpNP2WRW5Ti_Kpa8ad8OTnTWQbpgM2bjMjT9pZxvSdnYo59hr6ixjCWe1crdOIelwAYzcW/s500/Photo%25252020161027144819418.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403118.0737" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> Inside the hall, performers should be happy that the lights are turned down. Otherwise, patrons would be distracted by the dizzying array of what there is to see. Fortunately, the performance was quite good. The low wooden platform accentuated the percussion from the performers' feet.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lg_m7WMDBAU/WBJP_bX0tII/AAAAAAAAFqg/V79WjTeVrmw/s2048/Photo%25252020161027150400256.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lg_m7WMDBAU/WBJP_bX0tII/AAAAAAAAFqg/V79WjTeVrmw/s500/Photo%25252020161027150400256.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403094.2295" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Back in 1401 the Barcelona's Consell de Cent ("Council of One Hundred") merged six hospitals into one to improve the free care provided to the city's poor as the Hospital de la Santa Creu. By the turn of the 20th century, the facilities had become inadequate and a wealthy banker (Pau Gil) stepped up with a very large donation and a commission to Lluis Domenech i Montaner to design a new hospital to modern standards. His only demand was that the hospital be renamed to honor his patron saint, Saint Paul, so that it is now the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau. Of course, the architect did frequently include the donor's initials as decoration. We didn't mind.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B89XeS-Yljo/WBJP7eqcZZI/AAAAAAAAFqY/3NsQ__Yp2Ow/s2048/Photo%25252020161027150400238.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B89XeS-Yljo/WBJP7eqcZZI/AAAAAAAAFqY/3NsQ__Yp2Ow/s500/Photo%25252020161027150400238.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403098.7568" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The hospital is comprised of many individual buildings linked by tunnels. The buildings are absolutely beautiful.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EtodGl3jrGw/WBJbk_viKsI/AAAAAAAAFq8/hF4CKMI3SCA/s2048/Photo%25252020161027155438741.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EtodGl3jrGw/WBJbk_viKsI/AAAAAAAAFq8/hF4CKMI3SCA/s500/Photo%25252020161027155438741.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403135.3184" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7fIoOyCsQTc/WBJbCPOdr2I/AAAAAAAAFq0/33kXzpgKZGE/s2048/Photo%25252020161027155208502.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7fIoOyCsQTc/WBJbCPOdr2I/AAAAAAAAFq0/33kXzpgKZGE/s500/Photo%25252020161027155208502.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403133.618" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ghF4x9QTUc4XSzbgiwnKsQYRr6QiYiR9Ps9MlY6DNYpErZ9knIWZxNQgYJn6Pka5M3l9I2SptMViCHnd3jpiTgj13bXm_D56bHuUm7l4XiR3jmsCxc6jhp1KqEVPeSckuiPsjn9oDbg4/s2048/Photo%25252020161027155208505.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ghF4x9QTUc4XSzbgiwnKsQYRr6QiYiR9Ps9MlY6DNYpErZ9knIWZxNQgYJn6Pka5M3l9I2SptMViCHnd3jpiTgj13bXm_D56bHuUm7l4XiR3jmsCxc6jhp1KqEVPeSckuiPsjn9oDbg4/s500/Photo%25252020161027155208505.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403088.2307" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BbLcqzBudGA/WBJP9VUN4FI/AAAAAAAAFqc/d9yNt9EwN3A/s2048/Photo%25252020161027150400246.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BbLcqzBudGA/WBJP9VUN4FI/AAAAAAAAFqc/d9yNt9EwN3A/s500/Photo%25252020161027150400246.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403144.1895" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> They have also been restored in an ongoing project.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vjq7neKNqTg/WBJPztnjJOI/AAAAAAAAFqI/FM6NLuv23V8/s2048/Photo%25252020161027150400203.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vjq7neKNqTg/WBJPztnjJOI/AAAAAAAAFqI/FM6NLuv23V8/s500/Photo%25252020161027150400203.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403146.149" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p>By the turn of the 21st century, it was clear that the hospital was again inadequate. It had been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997, but it was time to move. In fact, the hospital continued to serve as a hospital until 2008 when a new hospital opened that had been built on a portion of the same large tract of land originally set aside. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jX3ktPmgSd0/WBJP1qaL6xI/AAAAAAAAFqM/T-cPa4jQabU/s2048/Photo%25252020161027150400211.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jX3ktPmgSd0/WBJP1qaL6xI/AAAAAAAAFqM/T-cPa4jQabU/s500/Photo%25252020161027150400211.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403077.1843" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qcz74ykTw_w/WBJP3ckcliI/AAAAAAAAFqQ/SGZqOhXPh6w/s2048/Photo%25252020161027150400220.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qcz74ykTw_w/WBJP3ckcliI/AAAAAAAAFqQ/SGZqOhXPh6w/s500/Photo%25252020161027150400220.jpg" id="blogsy-1477607403139.1394" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> So, now the hospital is a museum with spaces that can also be rented out for functions. It's new on the tourist circuit, but well worth a visit, as is Barcelona for its architectural treasures alone.</p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-2883772286026682052016-10-19T08:21:00.000-07:002016-10-19T08:21:34.141-07:00A Dali Day<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OGJZL3DEfr0/WAUfS7rEMRI/AAAAAAAAFgg/KKkUJMPCb4Q/s2048/Photo%25252020161017205803890.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OGJZL3DEfr0/WAUfS7rEMRI/AAAAAAAAFgg/KKkUJMPCb4Q/s500/Photo%25252020161017205803890.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209521.4905" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p>Salvador Dali had a special fondness for his birthplace of Figueras and a seaside resort, nestled like a forgotten land protected from the outside by precipitous drops along the edges of innumerable switchbacks, the small city of Cadaques where he made his home with his beloved Gala. After driving all the way to Cadaques the previous day, we backtracked to Figueras to look for him at the Dali Theater and Museum, a project founded and created by the man himself.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m_IlglNcsik/WAZG4nGzVSI/AAAAAAAAFg8/7S5jAdV3A2I/s2048/Photo%25252020161018175817350.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m_IlglNcsik/WAZG4nGzVSI/AAAAAAAAFg8/7S5jAdV3A2I/s500/Photo%25252020161018175817350.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209490.7896" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p>You can find Dali by looking for eggs.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9bCMCfXEVYU/WAZHPMRjXdI/AAAAAAAAFhA/Tn1Jk59_bpA/s2048/Photo%25252020161018175817320.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9bCMCfXEVYU/WAZHPMRjXdI/AAAAAAAAFhA/Tn1Jk59_bpA/s500/Photo%25252020161018175817320.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209500.295" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mT_vUK0wxEw/WAZHcmvBOuI/AAAAAAAAFhE/NJ7i46EcZIk/s2048/Photo%25252020161018175817330.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mT_vUK0wxEw/WAZHcmvBOuI/AAAAAAAAFhE/NJ7i46EcZIk/s500/Photo%25252020161018175817330.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209553.7773" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yt1qm9-rEXM/WAZHtY7E5bI/AAAAAAAAFhI/vML_E0bcxTk/s2048/Photo%25252020161018175817341.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yt1qm9-rEXM/WAZHtY7E5bI/AAAAAAAAFhI/vML_E0bcxTk/s500/Photo%25252020161018175817341.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209506.1362" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> The "and Theater" was not an error. Our Day with Dali led to respect for his genius as a self-promoting provocateur who was also exceptionally talented. His art is massively entertaining with layers of symbols and meaning. And, by the way, he's buried in a very traditional crypt beneath the theater, being a devout Catholic.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YVqLwaBECNY/WAZLK9DRB2I/AAAAAAAAFhU/sv9obtGMiZc/s2048/Photo%25252020161018181615778.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YVqLwaBECNY/WAZLK9DRB2I/AAAAAAAAFhU/sv9obtGMiZc/s500/Photo%25252020161018181615778.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209508.411" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SkukrfAZf34/WAZLZ2YGyfI/AAAAAAAAFhY/LGj00cZ44XQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161018181615789.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SkukrfAZf34/WAZLZ2YGyfI/AAAAAAAAFhY/LGj00cZ44XQ/s500/Photo%25252020161018181615789.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209461.9753" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kkoGQ0yJQI8/WAZLzZJwbjI/AAAAAAAAFhc/k3y_JWiJ7F8/s2048/Photo%25252020161018181905949.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kkoGQ0yJQI8/WAZLzZJwbjI/AAAAAAAAFhc/k3y_JWiJ7F8/s500/Photo%25252020161018181905949.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209522.1733" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3yR5ldalB7w/WAZL_qG0oaI/AAAAAAAAFhg/cDiABkqIODQ/s2048/Photo%25252020161018181905960.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3yR5ldalB7w/WAZL_qG0oaI/AAAAAAAAFhg/cDiABkqIODQ/s500/Photo%25252020161018181905960.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209549.085" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ID38zHj-GFI/WAZO50LZHZI/AAAAAAAAFh8/a8laBeACwC8/s2048/Photo%25252020161018183235552.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ID38zHj-GFI/WAZO50LZHZI/AAAAAAAAFh8/a8laBeACwC8/s500/Photo%25252020161018183235552.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209474.2769" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZlqiCWIv2xo/WAZPGj84XQI/AAAAAAAAFiA/ndqdOuS56Xg/s2048/Photo%25252020161018183235556.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZlqiCWIv2xo/WAZPGj84XQI/AAAAAAAAFiA/ndqdOuS56Xg/s500/Photo%25252020161018183235556.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209531.4814" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_kxS8I-rDQY/WAZNRNNDgfI/AAAAAAAAFho/ZjaxdoaG3lI/s2048/Photo%25252020161018182535376.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_kxS8I-rDQY/WAZNRNNDgfI/AAAAAAAAFho/ZjaxdoaG3lI/s500/Photo%25252020161018182535376.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209487.1003" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0RRtAfSzxrE/WAZNc-if0hI/AAAAAAAAFhs/MGo7FpRRyeo/s2048/Photo%25252020161018182535383.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0RRtAfSzxrE/WAZNc-if0hI/AAAAAAAAFhs/MGo7FpRRyeo/s500/Photo%25252020161018182535383.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209518.487" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ngrOSRuxKds/WAZSShqqNpI/AAAAAAAAFic/831vo_df-oI/s2048/Photo%25252020161018184713734.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ngrOSRuxKds/WAZSShqqNpI/AAAAAAAAFic/831vo_df-oI/s500/Photo%25252020161018184713734.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209491.9626" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nxjjWP407tU/WAZSf8OjiRI/AAAAAAAAFig/BnUKe5VrzFM/s2048/Photo%25252020161018184714129.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nxjjWP407tU/WAZSf8OjiRI/AAAAAAAAFig/BnUKe5VrzFM/s500/Photo%25252020161018184714129.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209533.6682" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HvEvZwU7ulA/WAZSrpUthcI/AAAAAAAAFio/EJdSoWNeBYc/s2048/Photo%25252020161018184714527.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HvEvZwU7ulA/WAZSrpUthcI/AAAAAAAAFio/EJdSoWNeBYc/s500/Photo%25252020161018184714527.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209477.9143" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o0yB0gAIhAg/WAcsNQXkvcI/AAAAAAAAFjI/cK4qshL4ugA/s2048/Photo%25252020161019101638617.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o0yB0gAIhAg/WAcsNQXkvcI/AAAAAAAAFjI/cK4qshL4ugA/s500/Photo%25252020161019101638617.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209513.2092" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uFWgVHtCMa4/WAZQnsmbxQI/AAAAAAAAFiI/pGXJUyrIVWA/s2048/Photo%25252020161018184012278.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uFWgVHtCMa4/WAZQnsmbxQI/AAAAAAAAFiI/pGXJUyrIVWA/s500/Photo%25252020161018184012278.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209515.7253" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p>Confused? Taking in the works Dali chose for his museum is mind boggling. They exhibit an incredibly restless exuberance that can't seem to be either contained or adequately expressed. The place fairly bursts apart and is packed with curious visitors (even in October) as they make their way, trying to comprehend Dali.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f10kJq6Q1LY/WAcsY72wJGI/AAAAAAAAFjM/wpWMvW7yn0s/s2048/Photo%25252020161019101638625.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f10kJq6Q1LY/WAcsY72wJGI/AAAAAAAAFjM/wpWMvW7yn0s/s500/Photo%25252020161019101638625.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209572.11" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xTztxkBX7kA/WAd-mmOVxfI/AAAAAAAAFjk/qWMTpJxIMOo/s2048/Photo%25252020161019160823138.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xTztxkBX7kA/WAd-mmOVxfI/AAAAAAAAFjk/qWMTpJxIMOo/s500/Photo%25252020161019160823138.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209566.7617" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wVCl_02OQzA/WAd-Okx1OcI/AAAAAAAAFjg/V7e_AtS-5Vs/s2048/Photo%25252020161019160514783.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wVCl_02OQzA/WAd-Okx1OcI/AAAAAAAAFjg/V7e_AtS-5Vs/s500/Photo%25252020161019160514783.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209510.4739" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="668"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And then there's more. Jewelry, including a pulsating heart.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--PPMxrKocEY/WAeBOyWNEOI/AAAAAAAAFjs/TDpOK8f_PN8/s2048/Photo%25252020161019161834953.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--PPMxrKocEY/WAeBOyWNEOI/AAAAAAAAFjs/TDpOK8f_PN8/s500/Photo%25252020161019161834953.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209487.1152" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> So it was back over the mountains to find the heart of the matter, where Salvador and Gala called home,</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I6UniTQDNck/WAeBdAoFuzI/AAAAAAAAFj0/UdT6xkFcFQY/s2048/Photo%25252020161019161842614.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I6UniTQDNck/WAeBdAoFuzI/AAAAAAAAFj0/UdT6xkFcFQY/s500/Photo%25252020161019161842614.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209534.6265" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--60ajasduT0/WAeBqu3qovI/AAAAAAAAFj4/b-8ByGRz-9k/s2048/Photo%25252020161019161842595.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--60ajasduT0/WAeBqu3qovI/AAAAAAAAFj4/b-8ByGRz-9k/s500/Photo%25252020161019161842595.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209501.9768" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XYIuzdyp8nU/WAeB31w-ceI/AAAAAAAAFj8/bJUzTaBpGEE/s2048/Photo%25252020161019161842605.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XYIuzdyp8nU/WAeB31w-ceI/AAAAAAAAFj8/bJUzTaBpGEE/s500/Photo%25252020161019161842605.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209518.2678" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> A comfortable one-bedroom place by the sea,</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PgO2kZwBPXE/WAeDufxIBfI/AAAAAAAAFkQ/WEY3vUoMZZI/s2048/Photo%25252020161019162853703.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PgO2kZwBPXE/WAeDufxIBfI/AAAAAAAAFkQ/WEY3vUoMZZI/s500/Photo%25252020161019162853703.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209570.0051" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7g52ylNdgSc/WAeD-3DCxBI/AAAAAAAAFkU/cmo6m9eZdDk/s2048/Photo%25252020161019162853693.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7g52ylNdgSc/WAeD-3DCxBI/AAAAAAAAFkU/cmo6m9eZdDk/s500/Photo%25252020161019162853693.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209538.8901" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixt58BMqZypdZMueUkgfXw2Dg1CQHgrd7BzMZT_KeDRVtcHpHXCIMaw3vVWz6rm1iHV7o-kgHOYo0-3vvw3cecf6gtq0Cqt6mxWF__P9-mbsCYeed_wWaesd9-OoPiw0f4XRxKecA3Jm0A/s2048/Photo%25252020161019162853713.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixt58BMqZypdZMueUkgfXw2Dg1CQHgrd7BzMZT_KeDRVtcHpHXCIMaw3vVWz6rm1iHV7o-kgHOYo0-3vvw3cecf6gtq0Cqt6mxWF__P9-mbsCYeed_wWaesd9-OoPiw0f4XRxKecA3Jm0A/s500/Photo%25252020161019162853713.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209496.9846" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> Where he left us plenty of eggs,</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkWvWgF9B2oRgZQoVyZo_A26_owM7arojTbOFmuqxfc9B8ctPAhwsOTu5izuULSXRZq-pIKbKndHbfP1fpBbnrYA11HR6kjfUKCDb8wxVMvZGZ-my4AgoXLpyOqM6YKaPYGDl4LowdvOTs/s2048/Photo%25252020161019163640845.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkWvWgF9B2oRgZQoVyZo_A26_owM7arojTbOFmuqxfc9B8ctPAhwsOTu5izuULSXRZq-pIKbKndHbfP1fpBbnrYA11HR6kjfUKCDb8wxVMvZGZ-my4AgoXLpyOqM6YKaPYGDl4LowdvOTs/s500/Photo%25252020161019163640845.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209539.525" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jBKu1rtPWDM/WAeFrpVgWuI/AAAAAAAAFkk/-zcMTq4pVV8/s2048/Photo%25252020161019163640824.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jBKu1rtPWDM/WAeFrpVgWuI/AAAAAAAAFkk/-zcMTq4pVV8/s500/Photo%25252020161019163640824.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209545.3743" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-71bXsrbjsQI/WAeGEIOLavI/AAAAAAAAFkw/YICCoOt9CKs/s2048/Photo%25252020161019163640835.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-71bXsrbjsQI/WAeGEIOLavI/AAAAAAAAFkw/YICCoOt9CKs/s500/Photo%25252020161019163640835.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209497.84" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> And enigmatic images,</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OZ6h2TdV-1A/WAeHq3kmB8I/AAAAAAAAFk4/OVx71bJYDeI/s2048/Photo%25252020161019164315640.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OZ6h2TdV-1A/WAeHq3kmB8I/AAAAAAAAFk4/OVx71bJYDeI/s500/Photo%25252020161019164315640.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209567.172" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> To ponder.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TbsTUFYgk4Q/WAeNNwAu7QI/AAAAAAAAFlY/ivO60-zXhDM/s2048/Photo%25252020161019170957518.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TbsTUFYgk4Q/WAeNNwAu7QI/AAAAAAAAFlY/ivO60-zXhDM/s500/Photo%25252020161019170957518.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209598.965" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> After we left the Dali home, we explored the coast</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5OKKCDIBKqs/WAeNtws9TwI/AAAAAAAAFlc/-QPHb0wAV-M/s2048/Photo%25252020161019171303834.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5OKKCDIBKqs/WAeNtws9TwI/AAAAAAAAFlc/-QPHb0wAV-M/s500/Photo%25252020161019171303834.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209511.517" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-axvTgWK8ajo/WAeN5TdxMCI/AAAAAAAAFlg/kCfPyFqtzQ0/s2048/Photo%25252020161019171303837.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-axvTgWK8ajo/WAeN5TdxMCI/AAAAAAAAFlg/kCfPyFqtzQ0/s500/Photo%25252020161019171303837.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209585.444" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> And then walked down into Cadaques in the midst of a torrential downpour</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dOG-xTHPPTo/WAeOFeZmWFI/AAAAAAAAFlk/extPAzUCQ7E/s2048/Photo%25252020161019171303842.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dOG-xTHPPTo/WAeOFeZmWFI/AAAAAAAAFlk/extPAzUCQ7E/s500/Photo%25252020161019171303842.jpg" id="blogsy-1476890209524.2478" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">To take a look at the route we drove on first coming into town. And, yes, the street is completely submerged in the surf and the red Audi drove through it.</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-36424697797854129382016-10-16T13:25:00.000-07:002016-10-16T13:25:59.461-07:00Passing Through Girona<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u1laRjzCG-s/WAMy45AyFZI/AAAAAAAAFeQ/pM0lhvdTNxo/s2048/Photo%25252020161016095622497.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u1laRjzCG-s/WAMy45AyFZI/AAAAAAAAFeQ/pM0lhvdTNxo/s500/Photo%25252020161016095622497.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846452.8267" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uiKs4a5-rqA/WAMy6sHGCLI/AAAAAAAAFeU/1js0tuyUgQA/s2048/Photo%25252020161016095559651.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uiKs4a5-rqA/WAMy6sHGCLI/AAAAAAAAFeU/1js0tuyUgQA/s500/Photo%25252020161016095559651.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846499.1729" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VZWIywQ0WL0/WAMy8FpUMGI/AAAAAAAAFeY/VpXXDmJr93E/s2048/Photo%25252020161016095559648.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VZWIywQ0WL0/WAMy8FpUMGI/AAAAAAAAFeY/VpXXDmJr93E/s500/Photo%25252020161016095559648.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846501.622" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jJM5TmMr1uI/WAMy-Feb--I/AAAAAAAAFec/bjOA0PvvdOE/s2048/Photo%25252020161016095559643.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jJM5TmMr1uI/WAMy-Feb--I/AAAAAAAAFec/bjOA0PvvdOE/s500/Photo%25252020161016095559643.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846506.094" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> People have been passing through Girona for thousands of years: the Iberians, the Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, and then a tussle back and forth with the entry of Charlemagne in 785 when he made it one of the 14 original counties of Catalonia. Of course, the Moors came crashing back in 793 and it was one siege and sack after another until 1492 when, in addition to expelling the Moors from Spain, the substantial Jewish community of Catalonia was also expelled, although the Jewish quarter of Girona would continue to be called the Jewish quarter. Now, of course, Catalan and Spanish are both spoken and many Catalans would like to sever ties with Spain. This is where we began our exploration of northern Spain.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z2qut77ilfU/WAM8egStmkI/AAAAAAAAFfU/15q5DSA30MI/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103801365.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z2qut77ilfU/WAM8egStmkI/AAAAAAAAFfU/15q5DSA30MI/s500/Photo%25252020161016103801365.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846492.991" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LeusvCrWJiE/WAM8hGjZufI/AAAAAAAAFfY/R48BNHMM28k/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103801676.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LeusvCrWJiE/WAM8hGjZufI/AAAAAAAAFfY/R48BNHMM28k/s500/Photo%25252020161016103801676.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846465.6099" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dgh2JJiFzeM/WAM8jAK2oaI/AAAAAAAAFfc/bk95cVGIYiE/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103801972.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dgh2JJiFzeM/WAM8jAK2oaI/AAAAAAAAFfc/bk95cVGIYiE/s500/Photo%25252020161016103801972.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846489.9004" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MPO6cHxUjUg/WAM8mFNMweI/AAAAAAAAFfg/yBHQ5Pzu0R0/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103802409.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MPO6cHxUjUg/WAM8mFNMweI/AAAAAAAAFfg/yBHQ5Pzu0R0/s500/Photo%25252020161016103802409.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846501.8865" class="alignnone" width="500" height="666" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v6rfEgOkViQ/WAM8o-jNKwI/AAAAAAAAFfk/6F8AdfJOGNo/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103802946.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v6rfEgOkViQ/WAM8o-jNKwI/AAAAAAAAFfk/6F8AdfJOGNo/s500/Photo%25252020161016103802946.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846520.6157" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The old city is a delightful area to wander.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cr7Qo-XHlxo/WAM8r5rxAtI/AAAAAAAAFfo/MtIgdejtVBU/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103803503.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cr7Qo-XHlxo/WAM8r5rxAtI/AAAAAAAAFfo/MtIgdejtVBU/s500/Photo%25252020161016103803503.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846485.6108" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y2b__acuTiE/WAM8uHsYA-I/AAAAAAAAFfs/KbHAkbK4P9Y/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103803940.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y2b__acuTiE/WAM8uHsYA-I/AAAAAAAAFfs/KbHAkbK4P9Y/s500/Photo%25252020161016103803940.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846491.7239" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n5EFC_lqCTI/WAM8w0qtnDI/AAAAAAAAFfw/BDV42WrAP3s/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103804402.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n5EFC_lqCTI/WAM8w0qtnDI/AAAAAAAAFfw/BDV42WrAP3s/s500/Photo%25252020161016103804402.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846497.7175" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qzCPFY9E4yA/WAM83WLydNI/AAAAAAAAFf4/4dUqx2bjPS4/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103804860.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qzCPFY9E4yA/WAM83WLydNI/AAAAAAAAFf4/4dUqx2bjPS4/s500/Photo%25252020161016103804860.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846494.0942" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The Cathedral and Cloister were the site of a Roman forum and of a mosque before being dedicated as a cathedral. Indeed, Roman fortifications remain.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B-TiG2jtRVg/WAM850a5EGI/AAAAAAAAFf8/5BzPf1udq_Q/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103805461.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B-TiG2jtRVg/WAM850a5EGI/AAAAAAAAFf8/5BzPf1udq_Q/s500/Photo%25252020161016103805461.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846517.3855" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The highlight of the Treasury is the 11th Century Tapestry of Creation of couched needlework in wool. Christ Pantocrator (in Eastern iconography) is in the center, surrounded by various themes, including those of the creation and of the seasons.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvpEZ0sr19-jeHPsgT2bHoRZSp-SXI2YDDGzOMWjdSJP78PKMCvD-eqfR75j9sRp3cSVaoa-5HsVwT07GEjJk07xzIxJewStfL0VolBKhN9ySLloSJ-vthZ_pljLNNa7czIqHQjlu8AOf/s2048/Photo%25252020161016102937691.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvpEZ0sr19-jeHPsgT2bHoRZSp-SXI2YDDGzOMWjdSJP78PKMCvD-eqfR75j9sRp3cSVaoa-5HsVwT07GEjJk07xzIxJewStfL0VolBKhN9ySLloSJ-vthZ_pljLNNa7czIqHQjlu8AOf/s500/Photo%25252020161016102937691.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846513.55" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a>"</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jbl_YCI14Io/WAM6lNiG0cI/AAAAAAAAFe0/dlMZ6nn4oTM/s2048/Photo%25252020161016102929176.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jbl_YCI14Io/WAM6lNiG0cI/AAAAAAAAFe0/dlMZ6nn4oTM/s500/Photo%25252020161016102929176.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846446.571" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><p> The primary purpose of our stop over in Girona was, of course, lunch. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhOQpp8a29MTppkuXUf1Pu8nR2OuvUo4y78qL5TP37WV4z9n5WZR4OnqRX1p5ZaTO1ochQb97NkQiH-dnW8Gt1YKsiYY5_kMkxs90w7PTGcRjhYNLLsmhoCksjD0xg6mDyvvbcr9nZb0A/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103244580.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhOQpp8a29MTppkuXUf1Pu8nR2OuvUo4y78qL5TP37WV4z9n5WZR4OnqRX1p5ZaTO1ochQb97NkQiH-dnW8Gt1YKsiYY5_kMkxs90w7PTGcRjhYNLLsmhoCksjD0xg6mDyvvbcr9nZb0A/s500/Photo%25252020161016103244580.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846544.9556" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W3q6J8J1fKk/WAM7bv7CSjI/AAAAAAAAFfA/P7GKT8PlKe4/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103244570.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W3q6J8J1fKk/WAM7bv7CSjI/AAAAAAAAFfA/P7GKT8PlKe4/s500/Photo%25252020161016103244570.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846467.3994" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SnZqBOGn4VQ/WAM7eBrwoKI/AAAAAAAAFfE/qhf4QZBcm7E/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103244572.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SnZqBOGn4VQ/WAM7eBrwoKI/AAAAAAAAFfE/qhf4QZBcm7E/s500/Photo%25252020161016103244572.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846496.136" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uJ-nyLvZcoY/WAM7fkn98GI/AAAAAAAAFfI/1ToaNmqQnfo/s2048/Photo%25252020161016103244595.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uJ-nyLvZcoY/WAM7fkn98GI/AAAAAAAAFfI/1ToaNmqQnfo/s500/Photo%25252020161016103244595.jpg" id="blogsy-1476648846488.007" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Properly fortified, we explored the Roman ruins and old city walls to enjoy the views before hitting the road again.</div>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-48257809376158468582016-09-10T11:52:00.000-07:002016-09-11T09:15:48.891-07:00Chasing Schooners at Provincetown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The Great Provincetown Schooner Regatta's Long Point Schooner & Yacht Race pits schooners that have raced from Gloucester to Provincetown earlier in the week against local boats. During the week, rides are available on the schooners, including during races.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6dLD83UZ934/V9MmAYGVgzI/AAAAAAAAFZk/9CXiR8ahHx0/s1769/Photo%25252020160909171216561.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6dLD83UZ934/V9MmAYGVgzI/AAAAAAAAFZk/9CXiR8ahHx0/s500/Photo%25252020160909171216561.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525475.1814" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> Passengers get their safety briefing on board the Hindu, a 75' schooner built in 1925. A schooner, of course, is a two (or more) masted sailing vessel where the foremast is usually shorter than the main.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ImNs-WGFeL8/V9MmDwcYrTI/AAAAAAAAFZo/VKfT9Fsrq_w/s2048/Photo%25252020160909171216575.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ImNs-WGFeL8/V9MmDwcYrTI/AAAAAAAAFZo/VKfT9Fsrq_w/s500/Photo%25252020160909171216575.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525468.5854" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The Hindu joins other boats in motoring out into the harbor.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lLyytcU8W4U/V9MmFf7estI/AAAAAAAAFZs/CJMk3Ai9gFc/s2048/Photo%25252020160909171216583.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lLyytcU8W4U/V9MmFf7estI/AAAAAAAAFZs/CJMk3Ai9gFc/s500/Photo%25252020160909171216583.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525521.01" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xCJZQE5ECEM/V9MmHffCAYI/AAAAAAAAFZw/HtIcAflfo18/s2048/Photo%25252020160909171216589.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xCJZQE5ECEM/V9MmHffCAYI/AAAAAAAAFZw/HtIcAflfo18/s500/Photo%25252020160909171216589.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525431.4016" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aUF69fZUtE0/V9MmI7mInGI/AAAAAAAAFZ0/RjjCZ4n8FJo/s1648/Photo%25252020160909171216599.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aUF69fZUtE0/V9MmI7mInGI/AAAAAAAAFZ0/RjjCZ4n8FJo/s500/Photo%25252020160909171216599.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525430.5837" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0alcRx2FkpmCXi3iiAKv2lu9Y1S6zR0G3yoj2BOLsYA424DIH5xx8WSDD7eJUsHR1QQurbTlP1IrAxLOrYenWKQB9Galx32kbrfIRXGga6EZgNA5BuGhQ6kI13kJk6_scxR2l2KvBzjY/s2048/Photo%25252020160909171216609.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0alcRx2FkpmCXi3iiAKv2lu9Y1S6zR0G3yoj2BOLsYA424DIH5xx8WSDD7eJUsHR1QQurbTlP1IrAxLOrYenWKQB9Galx32kbrfIRXGga6EZgNA5BuGhQ6kI13kJk6_scxR2l2KvBzjY/s500/Photo%25252020160909171216609.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525475.6997" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> On a relatively windless day, the schooners and other boats mill about waiting for the beginning of the race.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iaOeo4ajcI4/V9MtIbGmVKI/AAAAAAAAFaM/xvRDRyG0wFs/s2048/Photo%25252020160909174229690.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iaOeo4ajcI4/V9MtIbGmVKI/AAAAAAAAFaM/xvRDRyG0wFs/s500/Photo%25252020160909174229690.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525494.2537" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We opted for spots on a whale watching boat that would shadow the race, a boat billed as an opportunity to "paint the race."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m_Ziwatm1KM/V9MtKOfgx0I/AAAAAAAAFaQ/1OaMb0G-2r8/s2048/Photo%25252020160909174224113.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m_Ziwatm1KM/V9MtKOfgx0I/AAAAAAAAFaQ/1OaMb0G-2r8/s500/Photo%25252020160909174224113.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525444.1494" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Philip and Catherine set up quickly in the stern, while photographers roamed along the railings.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gyM2x3osd6U/V9MtL-NFphI/AAAAAAAAFaU/0uMn5qPyg5Q/s2048/Photo%25252020160909174224148.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gyM2x3osd6U/V9MtL-NFphI/AAAAAAAAFaU/0uMn5qPyg5Q/s500/Photo%25252020160909174224148.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525501.0203" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o09MJCDRi6I/V9RLG5Pff4I/AAAAAAAAFas/UnPco7_Dp3E/s2048/Photo%25252020160910140348540.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o09MJCDRi6I/V9RLG5Pff4I/AAAAAAAAFas/UnPco7_Dp3E/s500/Photo%25252020160910140348540.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525485.827" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><p> With sails aloft but nothing to power them, most of the action seemed to be happening behind the easels.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LtoWH5uxkbI/V9RN-1iyf3I/AAAAAAAAFa0/8ZtIFlCBrr0/s2048/Photo%25252020160910141543416.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LtoWH5uxkbI/V9RN-1iyf3I/AAAAAAAAFa0/8ZtIFlCBrr0/s500/Photo%25252020160910141543416.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525477.1992" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The race course was moved a few times to try to find some wind and the starting time delayed. Finally, the starting line was moved up to Truro.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3L9tf-WwSFI/V9ROAmIqrsI/AAAAAAAAFa4/1FWc9RwTDkI/s2048/Photo%25252020160910141543439.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3L9tf-WwSFI/V9ROAmIqrsI/AAAAAAAAFa4/1FWc9RwTDkI/s500/Photo%25252020160910141543439.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525523.4263" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And . . . They're Off!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fG17FTw_H4A/V9ROClR8EyI/AAAAAAAAFa8/JnMGQ_fnR3g/s2048/Photo%25252020160910141606460.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fG17FTw_H4A/V9ROClR8EyI/AAAAAAAAFa8/JnMGQ_fnR3g/s500/Photo%25252020160910141606460.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525525.4749" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Looks like the Spirit of South Carolina (thanks for the flag, guys) gaining on the (hmm, I don't know) and followed by the (gee, it's hard to tell them apart, isn't it?).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R5xe-hzITx8/V9RRF2EMNUI/AAAAAAAAFbM/EPhsw9plpF8/s2048/Photo%25252020160910142826793.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R5xe-hzITx8/V9RRF2EMNUI/AAAAAAAAFbM/EPhsw9plpF8/s500/Photo%25252020160910142826793.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525496.0476" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EI7rloEXAhU/V9RRJq-UTiI/AAAAAAAAFbU/CXYnhuQHbg4/s2048/Photo%25252020160910142826802.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EI7rloEXAhU/V9RRJq-UTiI/AAAAAAAAFbU/CXYnhuQHbg4/s500/Photo%25252020160910142826802.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525475.1123" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5eLRO93LjPU/V9RRNb1yusI/AAAAAAAAFbc/v5hz_wYCOl0/s2048/Photo%25252020160910142826809.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5eLRO93LjPU/V9RRNb1yusI/AAAAAAAAFbc/v5hz_wYCOl0/s500/Photo%25252020160910142826809.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525520.783" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q7QiGYYBpxQ/V9RRRyVBFhI/AAAAAAAAFbk/hB-ol7ULavk/s2048/Photo%25252020160910142826816.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q7QiGYYBpxQ/V9RRRyVBFhI/AAAAAAAAFbk/hB-ol7ULavk/s500/Photo%25252020160910142826816.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525531.1758" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x2yTAR4udSM/V9RRThAi82I/AAAAAAAAFbo/-PGUWbC8434/s2048/Photo%25252020160910142826819.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x2yTAR4udSM/V9RRThAi82I/AAAAAAAAFbo/-PGUWbC8434/s500/Photo%25252020160910142826819.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525447.1755" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zsHTBpBjwZQ/V9RRXBazcTI/AAAAAAAAFbw/nEpQ0zFvpP0/s2048/Photo%25252020160910142826825.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zsHTBpBjwZQ/V9RRXBazcTI/AAAAAAAAFbw/nEpQ0zFvpP0/s500/Photo%25252020160910142826825.jpg" id="blogsy-1473610525471.721" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Finally, the consensus of the boat's passengers was that we should go look for some whales. That worked nicely. We saw a humpback, a few finbacks and a mola mola which, for you uninitiated, is an ocean sunfish. It's a big round fish that weighs in at about 400 pounds and 8 feet across and swims on its side at the surface waving its fin above the water. Weird and wonderful.</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-89735462726164869512016-05-28T18:44:00.000-07:002016-05-28T18:44:33.496-07:00A Week in May in Maine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-irYczrLHfYk/V0nb0vZYpwI/AAAAAAAAFKU/38aucrVIn0A/s2048/Photo%25252020160528135457787.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-irYczrLHfYk/V0nb0vZYpwI/AAAAAAAAFKU/38aucrVIn0A/s500/Photo%25252020160528135457787.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547384.102" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Maine is where people from Cape Cod go to escape the crowds. Of course, if you head out to Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park - legendary retreat of the Rockefellers, Fords and Vanderbilts - you are bound for summertime gridlock. The secret is to visit in the month of May.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ViI9Xk4CoXs/V0nb4bpHt_I/AAAAAAAAFKc/7AsYRsUKWks/s2048/Photo%25252020160528135601299.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ViI9Xk4CoXs/V0nb4bpHt_I/AAAAAAAAFKc/7AsYRsUKWks/s500/Photo%25252020160528135601299.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547363.6248" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We opted for a fenced-in yard with a view, having two rambunctious dogs along with us. We were traveling with our friends Catherine and Philip. Ken decided to join us for the weekend. This is Bass Harbor.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u20Z6nH4-I4/V0nb2WkJSEI/AAAAAAAAFKY/41caa2PVpiE/s1952/Photo%25252020160528135457784.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u20Z6nH4-I4/V0nb2WkJSEI/AAAAAAAAFKY/41caa2PVpiE/s500/Photo%25252020160528135457784.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547357.2993" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CyMkxWCMvqM/V0ng2AQARwI/AAAAAAAAFKw/OVox5aSa1gs/s2048/Photo%25252020160528141658253.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CyMkxWCMvqM/V0ng2AQARwI/AAAAAAAAFKw/OVox5aSa1gs/s500/Photo%25252020160528141658253.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547351.7979" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V_201gS7dV4/V0ng3mGBpYI/AAAAAAAAFK0/rNObVNDSeDg/s2048/Photo%25252020160528141658245.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V_201gS7dV4/V0ng3mGBpYI/AAAAAAAAFK0/rNObVNDSeDg/s500/Photo%25252020160528141658245.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547443.1448" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It's very scenic - perfect for plein air painters (or photographers who aren't embarrassed to use Photoshop).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sxFW6nrUoHA/V0ngzn_jPMI/AAAAAAAAFKs/wFur4O6lUQg/s2048/Photo%25252020160528141549074.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sxFW6nrUoHA/V0ngzn_jPMI/AAAAAAAAFKs/wFur4O6lUQg/s500/Photo%25252020160528141549074.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547416.215" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S4_YlYK2wtA/V0nidvmAtQI/AAAAAAAAFLE/WwPo8orr2nA/s2048/Photo%25252020160528142149935.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S4_YlYK2wtA/V0nidvmAtQI/AAAAAAAAFLE/WwPo8orr2nA/s500/Photo%25252020160528142149935.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547438.1262" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eJat51f1t68/V0nifFjSkQI/AAAAAAAAFLI/_U9QfSs-cdQ/s2048/Photo%25252020160528142149970.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eJat51f1t68/V0nifFjSkQI/AAAAAAAAFLI/_U9QfSs-cdQ/s500/Photo%25252020160528142149970.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547418.3694" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">On other side of the harbor is the Bass Harbor Lighthouse, an iconic image of the National Park. Catherine ensconced herself well up into the rocks where she couldn't be pestered by the photographer. Wise choice, no doubt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BkVNRwcEyrs/V0nihg8ohKI/AAAAAAAAFLM/8B6E6zHYL3o/s2048/Photo%25252020160528142150027.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BkVNRwcEyrs/V0nihg8ohKI/AAAAAAAAFLM/8B6E6zHYL3o/s500/Photo%25252020160528142150027.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547420.8118" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">In the meantime, Amanda and Jim took the dogs down the road to Ship's Harbor Trail. Acadia is one of the few National Parks allowing leashed dogs on most hiking trails. That's our dog Momo, on the right, and her friend Brioche.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY8DuHubEBGrA7jBg_NeQ0ydozeXxGD_981ibW9OVRr8nb6bSVM0cpzuol016-GXWVWFIM_Hb138I6A5vlIHTegQIpnopJqhSt5LZ1vTb9i8dDd2_wlc5JFcJy7VvJ2PQs3OFGxkQyVlzl/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143810708.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY8DuHubEBGrA7jBg_NeQ0ydozeXxGD_981ibW9OVRr8nb6bSVM0cpzuol016-GXWVWFIM_Hb138I6A5vlIHTegQIpnopJqhSt5LZ1vTb9i8dDd2_wlc5JFcJy7VvJ2PQs3OFGxkQyVlzl/s500/Photo%25252020160528143810708.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547425.1023" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3iBrf_DRlns/V0nnQ3PbBAI/AAAAAAAAFLg/1MQnlRkw8Z0/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143810715.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3iBrf_DRlns/V0nnQ3PbBAI/AAAAAAAAFLg/1MQnlRkw8Z0/s500/Photo%25252020160528143810715.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547395.3625" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jYF6GNMVn8fJ9gtXDJ16QSLSpsolhtF8wvba8gHSDNOBHIHMnFuhB1Wx8CaWdMJgJGHAEjLgLVeMaba9PJCq_lkpobKv1cf3BkifXDQFub71HmrQELg9imIgXDOlmunCY1CDXVTpyHhP/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143810737.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jYF6GNMVn8fJ9gtXDJ16QSLSpsolhtF8wvba8gHSDNOBHIHMnFuhB1Wx8CaWdMJgJGHAEjLgLVeMaba9PJCq_lkpobKv1cf3BkifXDQFub71HmrQELg9imIgXDOlmunCY1CDXVTpyHhP/s500/Photo%25252020160528143810737.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547438.8877" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeKlWnyamVTihEAFmNpnOytlH8HGRP53BbePqO7WMllnpfbfcPEf-_9ihvVKG8aQPYa9gNfEgErIk-mG25BaAWkbHR8bPVrh_Wx3pftwzETYHOKRi4XTZam2BJxF54Cq9JR-3nc86JvYTk/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143801543.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeKlWnyamVTihEAFmNpnOytlH8HGRP53BbePqO7WMllnpfbfcPEf-_9ihvVKG8aQPYa9gNfEgErIk-mG25BaAWkbHR8bPVrh_Wx3pftwzETYHOKRi4XTZam2BJxF54Cq9JR-3nc86JvYTk/s500/Photo%25252020160528143801543.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547399.0715" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b-VD338R4tk/V0nnXjQv5xI/AAAAAAAAFLs/9zA1bofHU6Y/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143801619.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b-VD338R4tk/V0nnXjQv5xI/AAAAAAAAFLs/9zA1bofHU6Y/s500/Photo%25252020160528143801619.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547373.9988" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnxGLsiDPwyStgsyHNF6FX61X4i40Yq4IgDqPn9QeiBWqKkgG3I_jjb-7nbrvEyWvFK0x4lC_HYDh4Z9jFZV_5WjDsBVT6sH-PMXqzMBJuFdiNfxaWCxHLPlPEoYS32gmKXE9OgQpB7ew/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143754157.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnxGLsiDPwyStgsyHNF6FX61X4i40Yq4IgDqPn9QeiBWqKkgG3I_jjb-7nbrvEyWvFK0x4lC_HYDh4Z9jFZV_5WjDsBVT6sH-PMXqzMBJuFdiNfxaWCxHLPlPEoYS32gmKXE9OgQpB7ew/s500/Photo%25252020160528143754157.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547382.3682" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQ_ghNYzpJ8/V0nnb8VfASI/AAAAAAAAFL0/cWIlQHFwqio/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143754183.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQ_ghNYzpJ8/V0nnb8VfASI/AAAAAAAAFL0/cWIlQHFwqio/s500/Photo%25252020160528143754183.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547413.222" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OfP5YRpcarc/V0nndXwNu_I/AAAAAAAAFL4/H34X_7iGNzA/s2048/Photo%25252020160528143754233.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OfP5YRpcarc/V0nndXwNu_I/AAAAAAAAFL4/H34X_7iGNzA/s500/Photo%25252020160528143754233.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547421.8574" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">It certainly packs in a lot of scenery.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5UxyeOOxSl0/V0noqNOCgwI/AAAAAAAAFMY/Sft01jM8icI/s2048/Photo%25252020160528145002061.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5UxyeOOxSl0/V0noqNOCgwI/AAAAAAAAFMY/Sft01jM8icI/s500/Photo%25252020160528145002061.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547424.026" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zQ8YAMKFAGM/V0noodcOeUI/AAAAAAAAFMU/WwNmtR6ALl4/s2048/Photo%25252020160528145002083.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zQ8YAMKFAGM/V0noodcOeUI/AAAAAAAAFMU/WwNmtR6ALl4/s500/Photo%25252020160528145002083.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547459.4543" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5G8zl_I7UV0/V0nokhH37iI/AAAAAAAAFMM/tTK3JEIM6UQ/s2048/Photo%25252020160528144833219.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5G8zl_I7UV0/V0nokhH37iI/AAAAAAAAFMM/tTK3JEIM6UQ/s500/Photo%25252020160528144833219.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547407.2483" class="alignnone" width="500" height="357" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And, the dogs were on their best behavior.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2627gFhW7CI/V0n0fgH4ZtI/AAAAAAAAFOA/0w_RpoqtO0E/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849786.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2627gFhW7CI/V0n0fgH4ZtI/AAAAAAAAFOA/0w_RpoqtO0E/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849786.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547395.4346" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The next day, we pried the brushes from the painters' hands and all headed to Wonderland Trail with the dogs. Philip spotted the squirrel. We were hoping for a moose, but were told that it's not really suitable habitat for them or for bears. The moose are partial to freshwater wetlands.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cXf1Sd2ObGI/V0n09KgZsDI/AAAAAAAAFOw/NjPfaeq4p5Y/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153842743.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cXf1Sd2ObGI/V0n09KgZsDI/AAAAAAAAFOw/NjPfaeq4p5Y/s500/Photo%25252020160528153842743.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547443.11" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">This pine looked like something from a Japanese garden.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5kule669LAo/V0n0hiy8_-I/AAAAAAAAFOE/2H4_rHHDn1M/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849814.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5kule669LAo/V0n0hiy8_-I/AAAAAAAAFOE/2H4_rHHDn1M/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849814.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547408.098" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ipb6utD_hXc/V0n005MCtLI/AAAAAAAAFOg/dZQS3liFVP0/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849911.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ipb6utD_hXc/V0n005MCtLI/AAAAAAAAFOg/dZQS3liFVP0/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849911.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547395.4373" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DKWX99NEquo/V0n0ytlnGBI/AAAAAAAAFOc/IKKWz_mjyBA/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849879.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DKWX99NEquo/V0n0ytlnGBI/AAAAAAAAFOc/IKKWz_mjyBA/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849879.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547449.6697" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">But, it's the views of rocky shores that make Arcadia special.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E7VcVunMItM/V0n02kWHD1I/AAAAAAAAFOk/-aXVsvOCbvE/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153842700.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E7VcVunMItM/V0n02kWHD1I/AAAAAAAAFOk/-aXVsvOCbvE/s500/Photo%25252020160528153842700.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547421.2847" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KYHnf8Y_Q_Y/V0n045dZOwI/AAAAAAAAFOo/KYKBcmmFYh0/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153842711.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KYHnf8Y_Q_Y/V0n045dZOwI/AAAAAAAAFOo/KYKBcmmFYh0/s500/Photo%25252020160528153842711.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547434.3494" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W2HRalNHsQE/V0n0ufbcVOI/AAAAAAAAFOU/dhR3OdzUtsI/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849864.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W2HRalNHsQE/V0n0ufbcVOI/AAAAAAAAFOU/dhR3OdzUtsI/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849864.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547457.643" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Kcq1NTFN4M/V0n0suc4m7I/AAAAAAAAFOQ/FCJM-a3rR5g/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849860.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Kcq1NTFN4M/V0n0suc4m7I/AAAAAAAAFOQ/FCJM-a3rR5g/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849860.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547420.6228" class="alignnone" width="500" height="700" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vmhy8TovxXw/V0n0oxCjhEI/AAAAAAAAFOM/dtNQ06Vb2sY/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849853.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vmhy8TovxXw/V0n0oxCjhEI/AAAAAAAAFOM/dtNQ06Vb2sY/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849853.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547452.1477" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">That, and the close up magic of tidal pools.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A4OzxXwi8dc/V0n063PrXYI/AAAAAAAAFOs/ukJab_3fjlc/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153842725.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A4OzxXwi8dc/V0n063PrXYI/AAAAAAAAFOs/ukJab_3fjlc/s500/Photo%25252020160528153842725.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547455.7874" class="alignnone" width="500" height="668" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And the things you can do with rocks.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-as6ZTF76V6c/V0n0wv0EqTI/AAAAAAAAFOY/_ohiVAtQ3GI/s1978/Photo%25252020160528153849872.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-as6ZTF76V6c/V0n0wv0EqTI/AAAAAAAAFOY/_ohiVAtQ3GI/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849872.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547472.1038" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Er8qYdMxmJI/V0n3k8K6q9I/AAAAAAAAFPA/2DSHoh_U0Hc/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155439703.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Er8qYdMxmJI/V0n3k8K6q9I/AAAAAAAAFPA/2DSHoh_U0Hc/s500/Photo%25252020160528155439703.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547434.3794" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RoWOAIUzNfk/V0n0kdWww2I/AAAAAAAAFOI/JJKApPmHfcY/s2048/Photo%25252020160528153849843.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RoWOAIUzNfk/V0n0kdWww2I/AAAAAAAAFOI/JJKApPmHfcY/s500/Photo%25252020160528153849843.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547452.7793" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And friends.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zh4qOAI6pPI/V0n4bVRhl-I/AAAAAAAAFPg/bE1tEBvnvIc/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155631169.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zh4qOAI6pPI/V0n4bVRhl-I/AAAAAAAAFPg/bE1tEBvnvIc/s500/Photo%25252020160528155631169.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547418.5596" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T1TJVlS1PqI/V0n4dLlP2KI/AAAAAAAAFPk/yhN4xE6K6tw/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155635907.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T1TJVlS1PqI/V0n4dLlP2KI/AAAAAAAAFPk/yhN4xE6K6tw/s500/Photo%25252020160528155635907.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547415.2446" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Cadillac Mountain is the big-deal mountain on an island with plenty of terrain. Thanks to the early "rusticators" (wealthy people with a yearning for nature) there has long been a road up to something close to the summit and paved walking paths with jaw dropping views.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iuuY-6CmOv4/V0n4ZP2wsoI/AAAAAAAAFPc/eL6cvu_uY1E/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155631166.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iuuY-6CmOv4/V0n4ZP2wsoI/AAAAAAAAFPc/eL6cvu_uY1E/s500/Photo%25252020160528155631166.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547436.122" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jE8YL-ew1To/V0n4XDXYOXI/AAAAAAAAFPY/mw_e7gW9dHI/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155635915.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jE8YL-ew1To/V0n4XDXYOXI/AAAAAAAAFPY/mw_e7gW9dHI/s500/Photo%25252020160528155635915.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547418.4143" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha4XkOnX5NG3KxZlgyYZnww0fgtk5YqDxAdrJzffMyKCgIix69TeM1ReprNP9GVIlW93zFRhnGev7hYBbLvrspJhiCpZionK8sbrPFx-vQytWA1BlYRH72PDtU5ThmGUh6yiHLN9nQwpui/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155635912.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha4XkOnX5NG3KxZlgyYZnww0fgtk5YqDxAdrJzffMyKCgIix69TeM1ReprNP9GVIlW93zFRhnGev7hYBbLvrspJhiCpZionK8sbrPFx-vQytWA1BlYRH72PDtU5ThmGUh6yiHLN9nQwpui/s500/Photo%25252020160528155635912.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547455.361" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1jXqMb_H68w/V0n4TXVQ46I/AAAAAAAAFPM/soa5FkTk3PI/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155635910.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1jXqMb_H68w/V0n4TXVQ46I/AAAAAAAAFPM/soa5FkTk3PI/s500/Photo%25252020160528155635910.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547418.2024" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--j1B9RP5uVk/V0n4Rb1uAnI/AAAAAAAAFPI/ysOMFx9b2nA/s2048/Photo%25252020160528155635905.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--j1B9RP5uVk/V0n4Rb1uAnI/AAAAAAAAFPI/ysOMFx9b2nA/s500/Photo%25252020160528155635905.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547514.018" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Nope, not even this last one was photoshopped (which even your faithful photographer finds hard to believe).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpwudLk-V76UrXg06rRwHGj0CFEAS-aRLmmyb423C5OZ78NpcfayNYWHzXm_B1PkWiFrKGvSPKaBmjnvmVPjrbwBPclgw3C9Aku3FoViXvy97qMH2k6x6oTptuyJt2r3CU2F7BGp1vJB7/s2048/Photo%25252020160528160811833.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpwudLk-V76UrXg06rRwHGj0CFEAS-aRLmmyb423C5OZ78NpcfayNYWHzXm_B1PkWiFrKGvSPKaBmjnvmVPjrbwBPclgw3C9Aku3FoViXvy97qMH2k6x6oTptuyJt2r3CU2F7BGp1vJB7/s500/Photo%25252020160528160811833.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547416.16" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Another unique feature of Acadia is the network of carriage roads, over fifty miles of them, that attracts horse and carriage fans from around the world. We have the Rockefeller family to thank for them, as well as for the existence of the park. None of the park was purchased by the government. It is all donated land, which accounts for the Swiss cheese appearance on a map. By the way, the stones lining the roadway are coping stones which John D. Jr. insisted be cut irregularly to look natural, and not as blocks. It does look beautiful.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-djsi3Rfx8aU/V0n7e4BkchI/AAAAAAAAFP8/IpUSpCgMVg0/s2048/Photo%25252020160528160820900.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-djsi3Rfx8aU/V0n7e4BkchI/AAAAAAAAFP8/IpUSpCgMVg0/s500/Photo%25252020160528160820900.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547455.5376" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Although our tour focused on the bridges built by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. (known as "Junior" to one and all), our guide provided a nice overview of the history of Acadia and the people involved in putting it all together, especially the Rockefeller family. Being good Baptists, the Rockefellers avoided the rampant hedonism of the wealthy crowd hanging out in Bar Harbor and created their estate in Seal Harbor, where they still maintain a home. The Rockefellers also, we're told, were modest about their wealth and the sons growing up had no idea how wealthy they were. Apparently, three of the boys had summer jobs and were hitch hiking home. When the man giving them the ride expressed surprise that they didn't have their own cars, he was met with "What? We're not Vanderbilts, you know!"</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hdvjd-qpogg/V0n7hOrcdwI/AAAAAAAAFQA/pGtP84SkYe4/s2048/Photo%25252020160528160820908.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hdvjd-qpogg/V0n7hOrcdwI/AAAAAAAAFQA/pGtP84SkYe4/s500/Photo%25252020160528160820908.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547475.8398" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MnUhFEyDhXw/V0n7iz4A6pI/AAAAAAAAFQE/C-SL7htaxwM/s2048/Photo%25252020160528160820924.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MnUhFEyDhXw/V0n7iz4A6pI/AAAAAAAAFQE/C-SL7htaxwM/s500/Photo%25252020160528160820924.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547434.445" class="alignnone" width="500" height="668" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_hLlJmS47P8/V0n7lLdlciI/AAAAAAAAFQI/tcy6vgkCxmE/s2048/Photo%25252020160528160820936.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_hLlJmS47P8/V0n7lLdlciI/AAAAAAAAFQI/tcy6vgkCxmE/s500/Photo%25252020160528160820936.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547431.3442" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We took a tour focused on the bridges Mr. Rockefeller built, painstakingly and beautifully. He obsessed over the smallest details to create a perfect place for riding a carriage in nature, carefully placing trees to shade the horses after more strenuous climbs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OiD5rQfi7qA/V0n7nE4RJvI/AAAAAAAAFQM/DWnhUYdhp9Y/s2048/Photo%25252020160528160820986.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OiD5rQfi7qA/V0n7nE4RJvI/AAAAAAAAFQM/DWnhUYdhp9Y/s500/Photo%25252020160528160820986.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547442.9004" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And creating gate houses to control entry to and from the carriage roads from the automobile roads he also laid out. The Rockefeller property remains private property, but is open to the public, complementing the National Park. Dogs are allowed. Bicycles are not (because they are more likely to spook the horses). And, you can tell when you are going back and forth from the Park to the Rockefeller property because the latter roads are still covered with crushed pink granite, which the Park Service cannot afford, opting instead for ordinary gray gravel.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3IRJCZO56l0/V0oBW_5FyZI/AAAAAAAAFQs/4nTT_KsqHFA/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215763.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3IRJCZO56l0/V0oBW_5FyZI/AAAAAAAAFQs/4nTT_KsqHFA/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215763.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547501.5186" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pkl1oyMa14w/V0oBZBbihII/AAAAAAAAFQw/w-p3We-WJ2s/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215771.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pkl1oyMa14w/V0oBZBbihII/AAAAAAAAFQw/w-p3We-WJ2s/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215771.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547470.13" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gtlys5z4BNU/V0oBcETCrBI/AAAAAAAAFQ0/_wvvnSFupHM/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215786.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gtlys5z4BNU/V0oBcETCrBI/AAAAAAAAFQ0/_wvvnSFupHM/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215786.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547437.5056" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IaU7p4P4pCo/V0oBeHbyYJI/AAAAAAAAFQ4/z3oM5q-Hgjs/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215795.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IaU7p4P4pCo/V0oBeHbyYJI/AAAAAAAAFQ4/z3oM5q-Hgjs/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215795.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547508.4978" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_70MT75Dm3o/V0oBfzWKjeI/AAAAAAAAFQ8/IfyZo023_4Y/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215801.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_70MT75Dm3o/V0oBfzWKjeI/AAAAAAAAFQ8/IfyZo023_4Y/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215801.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547519.7332" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bII-yrSVCpA/V0oBhs4fNbI/AAAAAAAAFRA/L8qBg6-XFDA/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215805.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bII-yrSVCpA/V0oBhs4fNbI/AAAAAAAAFRA/L8qBg6-XFDA/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215805.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547467.558" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ggx70WsIJsk/V0oBjezMOjI/AAAAAAAAFRE/bLNaU7FtJLE/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163215809.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ggx70WsIJsk/V0oBjezMOjI/AAAAAAAAFRE/bLNaU7FtJLE/s500/Photo%25252020160528163215809.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547469.5398" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOEzaEqWheAwdO6Cvk6lNTvclIW_Zxjg-7E7VAuq3_c8mREgalvWVVAI-IRyqsPsPHsCV8IWE57np_7Hi6NRJxwplkMKSFqaGBSXCa0zjY-HfeK_hdxQcwlvbO8ZDcsZvqxat_jQRwM_hx/s2048/Photo%25252020160528163205557.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOEzaEqWheAwdO6Cvk6lNTvclIW_Zxjg-7E7VAuq3_c8mREgalvWVVAI-IRyqsPsPHsCV8IWE57np_7Hi6NRJxwplkMKSFqaGBSXCa0zjY-HfeK_hdxQcwlvbO8ZDcsZvqxat_jQRwM_hx/s500/Photo%25252020160528163205557.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547494.5195" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We enjoyed Ship's Harbor Trail so much, we talked Catherine and Philip into seeing it with us and were then surprised at how much more you can see on a second look. The small bit of fog also helped to create a different feel to the scenery.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aPsqgjISfJI/V0oHg2ks9PI/AAAAAAAAFRc/YcILsRSy9gM/s2048/Photo%25252020160528170109556.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aPsqgjISfJI/V0oHg2ks9PI/AAAAAAAAFRc/YcILsRSy9gM/s500/Photo%25252020160528170109556.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547496.0754" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SMYg-kxOPfw/V0oHijxC1UI/AAAAAAAAFRg/Gi5PbnDgwrg/s2048/Photo%25252020160528170109578.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SMYg-kxOPfw/V0oHijxC1UI/AAAAAAAAFRg/Gi5PbnDgwrg/s500/Photo%25252020160528170109578.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547482.2222" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">An Auto Museum? Well, yes, and Jim couldn't get enough of the one with the round windshield. We ended up at the Seal Cove Auto Museum because our landlady confused Seal Cove with Seal Harbor in providing directions to a Rockefeller property where dogs are permitted to run off-leash (yes, we pamper our dogs). Making no headway in finding any signage or likely place for a Rockefeller property, we stopped at the museum to ask for directions. The men at the Auto Museum had no idea what we were talking about, but phoned around, discovering for us the error of Cove versus Harbor. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nJBPis6acq0/V0oJ1GYmFMI/AAAAAAAAFRs/Ts4T2Li80Lc/s1954/Photo%25252020160528171229138.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nJBPis6acq0/V0oJ1GYmFMI/AAAAAAAAFRs/Ts4T2Li80Lc/s500/Photo%25252020160528171229138.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547469.1611" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">As long as we were in Seal Cove, we decided to explore a little and drive down some likely roads along the water. The first road we turned into shortly had a nice wharf down to the right and a handful of lobster boats at anchor. Catherine remembered that one of her son-in-law's best friends ran a lobster boat called the Lady Lauren and thought it would be funny to stumble upon it. So, we pulled out some binoculars and - it was the Lady Lauren.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AI_JhNw1Crs/V0oL3RELfGI/AAAAAAAAFSE/gZWMMmMIIPc/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820870.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AI_JhNw1Crs/V0oL3RELfGI/AAAAAAAAFSE/gZWMMmMIIPc/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820870.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547482.3486" class="alignnone" width="500" height="281" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bBWacyUIqHU/V0pD_q43KtI/AAAAAAAAFTs/-Z3n0ZbjPF4/s2048/Photo%25252020160528212043329.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bBWacyUIqHU/V0pD_q43KtI/AAAAAAAAFTs/-Z3n0ZbjPF4/s500/Photo%25252020160528212043329.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547496.5422" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JHzz3UWcfkQ/V0oL0VEnaiI/AAAAAAAAFR8/Aeia0VMz9tM/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171829089.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JHzz3UWcfkQ/V0oL0VEnaiI/AAAAAAAAFR8/Aeia0VMz9tM/s500/Photo%25252020160528171829089.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547545.0227" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">When they heard we were staying less than ten minutes away, Matt and Heather invited us to stop by to say hello and see their place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DsnjlQ7tY9E/V0oL8sTO5DI/AAAAAAAAFSQ/HnbEZR9uv9c/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820880.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DsnjlQ7tY9E/V0oL8sTO5DI/AAAAAAAAFSQ/HnbEZR9uv9c/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820880.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547565.9282" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n0oS26tp74Y/V0oL6n3qfMI/AAAAAAAAFSM/vYFMLdZ6z30/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820877.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n0oS26tp74Y/V0oL6n3qfMI/AAAAAAAAFSM/vYFMLdZ6z30/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820877.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547490.9075" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Matt's a fourth-generation lobsterman and shares the operation with his father and his uncle. He runs 500 traps himself. The family entered into a program restricting use of the land in perpetuity for fishing, as land prices are distorted by the popularity of second-homes, much as on the Cape.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hPQS5OWPzcE/V0oL12eLJPI/AAAAAAAAFSA/PceUuRos66M/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820868.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hPQS5OWPzcE/V0oL12eLJPI/AAAAAAAAFSA/PceUuRos66M/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820868.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547540.342" class="alignnone" width="500" height="357" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K-i3g4ehUzw/V0oL4yiDYII/AAAAAAAAFSI/DcejpQo9PII/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820875.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K-i3g4ehUzw/V0oL4yiDYII/AAAAAAAAFSI/DcejpQo9PII/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820875.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547572.8132" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTsqBr5Bfmyx7aq1lChhHon62UrHztrM_hGq0C-Kft_glkOztDxY18Gf12zFLVrbD2Y27wPNIRpoYys33-MWnf78CXpCBki4x4nsAIuWXEXo-8YzMsPQEZpwcoXnLVCjRx5TYU7Sjk9eZE/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820893.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTsqBr5Bfmyx7aq1lChhHon62UrHztrM_hGq0C-Kft_glkOztDxY18Gf12zFLVrbD2Y27wPNIRpoYys33-MWnf78CXpCBki4x4nsAIuWXEXo-8YzMsPQEZpwcoXnLVCjRx5TYU7Sjk9eZE/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820893.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547530.3403" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Waiting for us were eight lobsters, floating in the water off the dock.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2WySuRB942g/V0oMAZRR0gI/AAAAAAAAFSY/e_kcuQ8xFig/s2048/Photo%25252020160528171820900.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2WySuRB942g/V0oMAZRR0gI/AAAAAAAAFSY/e_kcuQ8xFig/s500/Photo%25252020160528171820900.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547491.1414" class="alignnone" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">They were superb. We also learned the trick to telling that a lobster is done cooking. The long feelers coming off the front of their heads should pull right out. Perfection. And, yes, we ate two lobsters each.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yiv7-KqKU50/V0oph5slNoI/AAAAAAAAFS4/W98fSyWai3M/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192334687.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yiv7-KqKU50/V0oph5slNoI/AAAAAAAAFS4/W98fSyWai3M/s500/Photo%25252020160528192334687.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547545.2612" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">As for the Rockefeller property in Seal Harbor, this is it. It wasn't particularly easy to find and there is no signage to direct you to it, just signage indicating it is private property open to the public. And no bicycles. This is the boat house.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LW_9P5Zqypo/V0opjkxQ3AI/AAAAAAAAFS8/nGGtSqjnvCs/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245736.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LW_9P5Zqypo/V0opjkxQ3AI/AAAAAAAAFS8/nGGtSqjnvCs/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245736.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547497.7568" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m6gXPtzqHAk/V0opmLWbYxI/AAAAAAAAFTA/g2nhngG372o/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245744.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m6gXPtzqHAk/V0opmLWbYxI/AAAAAAAAFTA/g2nhngG372o/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245744.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547587.2983" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oEhW2PNejLw/V0opn8ocXhI/AAAAAAAAFTE/wws7rYoSUlY/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245747.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oEhW2PNejLw/V0opn8ocXhI/AAAAAAAAFTE/wws7rYoSUlY/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245747.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547548.5452" class="alignnone" width="500" height="357" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uAREpAajmHc/V0opvUKsg8I/AAAAAAAAFTI/CgVR60Wgn-I/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245755.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uAREpAajmHc/V0opvUKsg8I/AAAAAAAAFTI/CgVR60Wgn-I/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245755.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547568.0288" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">We understand that David Rockefeller comes down with a dog on occasion. He has also been spotted recently driving a carriage on the carriage roads. He's now just a little over 100.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L_i0x1klW1I/V0opxOWqcjI/AAAAAAAAFTM/2XinynQfoNU/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192251295.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L_i0x1klW1I/V0opxOWqcjI/AAAAAAAAFTM/2XinynQfoNU/s500/Photo%25252020160528192251295.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547539.642" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2_XxWUTJ2EQ/V0opyxMloTI/AAAAAAAAFTQ/YHq87n2Nr3A/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245719.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2_XxWUTJ2EQ/V0opyxMloTI/AAAAAAAAFTQ/YHq87n2Nr3A/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245719.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547535.6892" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Dogs are welcome to go swimming.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SFf8bNDSpRY/V0op0ltDRDI/AAAAAAAAFTU/DJjSv4PiFpk/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245772.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SFf8bNDSpRY/V0op0ltDRDI/AAAAAAAAFTU/DJjSv4PiFpk/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245772.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547531.3179" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">Even the crazy ones.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u4rd_9ISLZI/V0op2Cgf2vI/AAAAAAAAFTY/sZ0mk6stGLU/s2048/Photo%25252020160528192245769.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u4rd_9ISLZI/V0op2Cgf2vI/AAAAAAAAFTY/sZ0mk6stGLU/s500/Photo%25252020160528192245769.jpg" id="blogsy-1464485547605.9495" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">And that's how it should be.</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-11713876508815523172016-03-15T15:46:00.000-07:002016-03-15T15:46:25.646-07:00And Back to Bergen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WQHWzJx5UEc/VuhXEo3qwuI/AAAAAAAAFFk/hpEU8tG54KI/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144007824.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WQHWzJx5UEc/VuhXEo3qwuI/AAAAAAAAFFk/hpEU8tG54KI/s500/Photo%25252020160315144007824.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077321942.8396" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The final days' passage down the coast to Bergen brought our only truly rough weather of the journey, with rain and choppy seas. This persisted as we drove around to take a look at the city, the steep-roofed warehouses along the water being the famous Bryggen or Hanseatic commercial buildings.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hJx7YQipxZo/VuhXGShpgeI/AAAAAAAAFFo/io0k3LalgOg/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144008227.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hJx7YQipxZo/VuhXGShpgeI/AAAAAAAAFFo/io0k3LalgOg/s500/Photo%25252020160315144008227.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077321976.7253" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> King Haakon Haakonsson had a less obstructed view of the fjord when he built his hall around 1250. It's believed to have been designed by the architect to Henry III of England, one of Haakon's allies, and it remains the largest secular medieval building in Norway.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yomgm5Z2VZA/VuhXIiZT2vI/AAAAAAAAFFs/JC5v9rOv0cw/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144008621.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yomgm5Z2VZA/VuhXIiZT2vI/AAAAAAAAFFs/JC5v9rOv0cw/s500/Photo%25252020160315144008621.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077321999.4778" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3cAv2N-jk8Y/VuhXKuOapbI/AAAAAAAAFFw/-6yMLBMtGXI/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144009051.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3cAv2N-jk8Y/VuhXKuOapbI/AAAAAAAAFFw/-6yMLBMtGXI/s500/Photo%25252020160315144009051.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077321950.2354" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HgX1MCdVDSE/VuhXNBJCIcI/AAAAAAAAFF0/Vk6k16WYGZk/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144009477.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HgX1MCdVDSE/VuhXNBJCIcI/AAAAAAAAFF0/Vk6k16WYGZk/s500/Photo%25252020160315144009477.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077322036.8955" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q6veIXj7C2E/VuhXO9iT1fI/AAAAAAAAFF4/Z5eODPh3Mq0/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144009875.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q6veIXj7C2E/VuhXO9iT1fI/AAAAAAAAFF4/Z5eODPh3Mq0/s500/Photo%25252020160315144009875.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077322016.6487" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QGftb0El5r4/VuhXREcGy-I/AAAAAAAAFF8/RnfKay-1n_c/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144010268.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QGftb0El5r4/VuhXREcGy-I/AAAAAAAAFF8/RnfKay-1n_c/s500/Photo%25252020160315144010268.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077321993.9128" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> The Bryggen are a ramshackle affair, built around 1702 and the outpost of the Hanseatic league at Bergen. It was largely a self-governing and protected enclave from which the league controlled the trade in, among other things, herring and cod, until the Dutch and others developed the muscle to break their monopoly. The league was a confederation of merchant guilds from member cities and essentially controlled trade in the area of the Baltic and North Sea and into the interior of Northern Europe from around 1400 to 1800. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnb1zAiyLl-XeuPCsvamChiL8t6u05xO3RtVQ_tblwpJ437oWXKUcJKvw6ziuFPnRZ825O2bUE8QcyT_c4U4LVCeDbKGai9fspvVKFhr06yNSeTl8N6-tFIi4fBVnP5lMR5y0Yl04v6edw/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144010672.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnb1zAiyLl-XeuPCsvamChiL8t6u05xO3RtVQ_tblwpJ437oWXKUcJKvw6ziuFPnRZ825O2bUE8QcyT_c4U4LVCeDbKGai9fspvVKFhr06yNSeTl8N6-tFIi4fBVnP5lMR5y0Yl04v6edw/s500/Photo%25252020160315144010672.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077322047.1497" class="alignnone" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> The oldest building in Bergen is St. Mary's church, from the 12th century. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s3StY3Hmr04/VuhXU878rtI/AAAAAAAAFGE/ZXF6poueuMQ/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144011024.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s3StY3Hmr04/VuhXU878rtI/AAAAAAAAFGE/ZXF6poueuMQ/s500/Photo%25252020160315144011024.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077322056.4592" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The Fantoft stave church was originally built around 1150, then moved twice to preserve it. However, it was destroyed by arson in 1992 by members of the early Norwegian black metal scene, purportedly in retaliation for building a church on sacred pagan land. It was reconstructed a few years later and is now protected by a chain link fence.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jl1akcqyk_0/VuhXXBfDLCI/AAAAAAAAFGI/ROqtwkW23jc/s2048/Photo%25252020160315144011397.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jl1akcqyk_0/VuhXXBfDLCI/AAAAAAAAFGI/ROqtwkW23jc/s500/Photo%25252020160315144011397.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077321959.2092" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pfPUvcsBFIE/VuhXZYqcH0I/AAAAAAAAFGM/guPIgfdbup4/s1935/Photo%25252020160315144011651.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pfPUvcsBFIE/VuhXZYqcH0I/AAAAAAAAFGM/guPIgfdbup4/s500/Photo%25252020160315144011651.jpg" id="blogsy-1458077322027.0718" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Completely unique to Bergen are the Buecorps or Archery Brigades, boy-run marching units organized at the neighborhood level. As you can see, they just march around in the midst of traffic. They seem to have been around from the 18th and 19th centuries, becoming formally organized around 1850, and can also do charitable work.</p><p> <u>Credit Where Credit's Due</u></p><p>Thanks to the experts who accompanied our group:</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/John-Haywood/e/B001IXNYQ0">http://www.amazon.com/John-Haywood/e/B001IXNYQ0</a><br></p><p><a href="http://www.ianridpath.com/">http://www.ianridpath.com/</a></p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-56478035395519190692016-03-13T01:11:00.000-08:002016-03-13T01:11:52.061-08:00Back to Trondheim<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-id0UYjTENuk/VuUt_lNuHgI/AAAAAAAAFEk/sY2fM7WgLp0/s1033/Photo%25252020160313100802774.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-id0UYjTENuk/VuUt_lNuHgI/AAAAAAAAFEk/sY2fM7WgLp0/s500/Photo%25252020160313100802774.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291168.0286" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> Yes, it's Olav Trygvasson again, this time favored by the early morning light. As the Hurtigruten express ships make their way up and down the coast, almost every port is visited twice, although at greatly different times of day. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTikd421UjAx9q876daw0CKrQ9P11sH3mv8jHUN8Wp4VT-GZ0tvp3__Z1o1tlGtmfKvOCeUioUR2z60pFfT9zrfSlFJvT6H-RMv9Bh7GfpdIDKmZmY7oqyFGPelgshB00CSVoV1m7q-df/s2048/Photo%25252020160313100803282.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTikd421UjAx9q876daw0CKrQ9P11sH3mv8jHUN8Wp4VT-GZ0tvp3__Z1o1tlGtmfKvOCeUioUR2z60pFfT9zrfSlFJvT6H-RMv9Bh7GfpdIDKmZmY7oqyFGPelgshB00CSVoV1m7q-df/s500/Photo%25252020160313100803282.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291166.933" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> The Royal Family maintains a residence in Trondheim, the ancient capital and the country's third largest city. We joined our group for a very chilly 7:30 walk about the city over sidewalks thick with ice. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R6yaRPiBvVI/VuUuNNVRWdI/AAAAAAAAFEs/n18e21W4hjU/s2048/Photo%25252020160313100803699.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R6yaRPiBvVI/VuUuNNVRWdI/AAAAAAAAFEs/n18e21W4hjU/s500/Photo%25252020160313100803699.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291097.0588" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bUam31Kyj9M/VuUuURGwscI/AAAAAAAAFEw/tqbbhVc5Vas/s2048/Photo%25252020160313100804104.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bUam31Kyj9M/VuUuURGwscI/AAAAAAAAFEw/tqbbhVc5Vas/s500/Photo%25252020160313100804104.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291173.5942" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zun7ARN8WEo/VuUudf56g6I/AAAAAAAAFE0/uODmHe08iKk/s2048/Photo%25252020160313100804500.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zun7ARN8WEo/VuUudf56g6I/AAAAAAAAFE0/uODmHe08iKk/s500/Photo%25252020160313100804500.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291120.3677" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> We walked over to Nidaros Cathedral again and through the arch to the Bishop's Residence. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3uNBImAPtqI/VuUumC9Kr0I/AAAAAAAAFE8/b-7f69zj2f0/s2048/Photo%25252020160313100804896.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3uNBImAPtqI/VuUumC9Kr0I/AAAAAAAAFE8/b-7f69zj2f0/s500/Photo%25252020160313100804896.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291121.4993" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Then over the Nidelva River on the Old Town Bridge (from 1861) through the Gate of Fortune to take a look at the world's first and only bicycle lift that ascends a hill on the other side of the river. Alas, it was closed for the winter, but here's the manufacturer's website. <a href="http://trampe.no/en/home">http://trampe.no/en/home</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2-eIxk-L13k/VuUuq9mfhKI/AAAAAAAAFFA/QJPyIj9tIlw/s1787/Photo%25252020160313100805123.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2-eIxk-L13k/VuUuq9mfhKI/AAAAAAAAFFA/QJPyIj9tIlw/s500/Photo%25252020160313100805123.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291166.7668" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> The bridge afforded a great view of some of the warehouses lining the river, now converted to apartments. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vVfIDfreU_c/VuUuwWfSixI/AAAAAAAAFFI/r8xq4qYClVY/s1955/Photo%25252020160313100805609.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vVfIDfreU_c/VuUuwWfSixI/AAAAAAAAFFI/r8xq4qYClVY/s500/Photo%25252020160313100805609.jpg" id="blogsy-1457860291125.4285" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Out in the fjord itself is Monk's Island, a storied piece of rock serving as a Viking execution ground, a monastery, a fortress, a prison, a WWII anti-aircraft installation, and most recently a place for locals to go for a swim in summer. </p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-46222662954315019402016-03-11T04:26:00.000-08:002016-03-11T04:26:54.478-08:00The Northern Lights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZsGRhsxKkEM/VuKSv2AGYnI/AAAAAAAAFDQ/Uj_jTuzsMh8/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103841613.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZsGRhsxKkEM/VuKSv2AGYnI/AAAAAAAAFDQ/Uj_jTuzsMh8/s500/Photo%25252020160311103841613.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505940.3936" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Mission Accomplished. We had wanted to see the coastline and fjords, learn more about the Vikings, and experience the Northern Lights, the Aurora Borealis. Not a particularly flattering picture, relying on an iPhone to illuminate Amanda's face, without which her head looked like a flaming red ball. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dMZ8UlCDQK8/VuKS1-h4U_I/AAAAAAAAFDU/GPMRGFDgrko/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103842048.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dMZ8UlCDQK8/VuKS1-h4U_I/AAAAAAAAFDU/GPMRGFDgrko/s500/Photo%25252020160311103842048.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505886.9316" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> The Northern Lights occur directly overhead and form great bands and arcs and ribbons and curtains across the entire sky when you are in the region where they occur in the ionosphere. That region is like an enormous narrow floppy donut plopped on top of the world. You are outside of the region if you are too far south or too far north. It's like two gigantic rings of fire, one in each polar region, north and south, because the auroras are the solar wind captured and directed by the earth's magnetic field and exciting the oxygen and nitrogen in the ionosphere at the altitudes in which satellites circle the world.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mX3dLXQ56q0/VuKS6lo7pXI/AAAAAAAAFDY/XH85IGZMHkU/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103842434.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mX3dLXQ56q0/VuKS6lo7pXI/AAAAAAAAFDY/XH85IGZMHkU/s500/Photo%25252020160311103842434.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505964.3655" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QugHAS1DaP8/VuKS_oYJiuI/AAAAAAAAFDc/r0-IEsHQBWg/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103842813.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QugHAS1DaP8/VuKS_oYJiuI/AAAAAAAAFDc/r0-IEsHQBWg/s500/Photo%25252020160311103842813.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505924.8538" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SL58mHWNGbQ/VuKTHRnCppI/AAAAAAAAFDg/z7K8j9vWvSo/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103843193.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SL58mHWNGbQ/VuKTHRnCppI/AAAAAAAAFDg/z7K8j9vWvSo/s500/Photo%25252020160311103843193.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505952.846" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0WuZDZuMfCU/VuKTMGPGHpI/AAAAAAAAFDk/7vRwEHe1FPI/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103843558.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0WuZDZuMfCU/VuKTMGPGHpI/AAAAAAAAFDk/7vRwEHe1FPI/s500/Photo%25252020160311103843558.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505977.0227" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3aNwC2J2oPo/VuKTQspuAVI/AAAAAAAAFDs/5R34OTuRr3U/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103843922.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3aNwC2J2oPo/VuKTQspuAVI/AAAAAAAAFDs/5R34OTuRr3U/s500/Photo%25252020160311103843922.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505945.2124" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--G5pDBzOmHY/VuKTUz8gmEI/AAAAAAAAFDw/RaGZo9Ql2h4/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103844255.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--G5pDBzOmHY/VuKTUz8gmEI/AAAAAAAAFDw/RaGZo9Ql2h4/s500/Photo%25252020160311103844255.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505953.9424" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5jsofWHhP0M/VuKTZ_SlciI/AAAAAAAAFD4/S1VWkaiPkg8/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103844621.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5jsofWHhP0M/VuKTZ_SlciI/AAAAAAAAFD4/S1VWkaiPkg8/s500/Photo%25252020160311103844621.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505962.9321" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4aVTCXFV0TEAiDPJvfkFH2lPUSLA5ikA7XsOEZ10r49XJnQSRErBGKPHE2dNq_2-sgO-63vMCrJMbzxJgCoq5GpcUwZq_AtnrrpBGXB66yQmwOiU83-vTmkBGRpJD0353Dr2zFmh-Lzfd/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103844985.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4aVTCXFV0TEAiDPJvfkFH2lPUSLA5ikA7XsOEZ10r49XJnQSRErBGKPHE2dNq_2-sgO-63vMCrJMbzxJgCoq5GpcUwZq_AtnrrpBGXB66yQmwOiU83-vTmkBGRpJD0353Dr2zFmh-Lzfd/s500/Photo%25252020160311103844985.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505964.5012" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bIF_7SdDncw/VuKTkOkK1kI/AAAAAAAAFEE/z6_tJxyleE0/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103845347.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bIF_7SdDncw/VuKTkOkK1kI/AAAAAAAAFEE/z6_tJxyleE0/s500/Photo%25252020160311103845347.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505993.5347" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> While the Northern Lights can be seen at lower latitudes, they are seen on the horizon, not spanning the entire sky. Whenever you see the Northern Lights with the naked eye they, to our surprise, don't look like this. The shapes and diaphanous appearance are true to nature, but the color is not. The strong green color is an artifact of photography and videography because cameras are more sensitive to the slight greenish cast that is inherent in the Aurora. When you see the Aurora the color is indistinguishable from the color of clouds or of light pollution. You determine that it is, in fact, an Aurora by photographing it. If it is light pollution it will look orangish, if it's a display of Aurora it will be green. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--G5pDBzOmHY/VuKTUz8gmEI/AAAAAAAAFDw/RaGZo9Ql2h4/s2048/Photo%25252020160311103844255.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E3OfOAH5Fgg/VuKToC6ItmI/AAAAAAAAFEM/pCIMhppJXKM/s500/Photo%25252020160311103845678.jpg" id="blogsy-1457689505899.7146" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> The purple color is also an indication of strong solar wind activity, for the key to a wonderful display is a lot of solar wind and a clear night. We were fortunate. It was a bit of a challenge to capture reasonable photographs of the Northern Lights aboard a ship. The star squiggles are evidence of both the movement of the ship and the strong winds buffeting us on deck in the open at the stern, behind the funnel. Had the weather cooperated before we exited the magic donut, we would have as a last attempt (for you photographers) dramatically increased the ISO in order to shorten the exposure time.</p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-36261618670735403082016-03-10T12:36:00.000-08:002016-03-10T12:36:43.281-08:00A Different Perspective<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzSSKbO7vZd6PD9VFnECxl71WoYdbWpFUxDsKNIQulGQYD02xCY4yvZLi19Hl1rAjCgy4IvSHfMt8m0WNL_UCEQDbo8FQTECCg3tK-bQ0fTZoNLZahAc8_pwzTSL8xcIojnt0Huryi9Ar/s2048/Photo%25252020160310213458335.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzSSKbO7vZd6PD9VFnECxl71WoYdbWpFUxDsKNIQulGQYD02xCY4yvZLi19Hl1rAjCgy4IvSHfMt8m0WNL_UCEQDbo8FQTECCg3tK-bQ0fTZoNLZahAc8_pwzTSL8xcIojnt0Huryi9Ar/s500/Photo%25252020160310213458335.jpg" id="blogsy-1457642178207.496" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cSAlPi--A5g/VuHan8AuZSI/AAAAAAAAFCw/9gVbTcZpZ2Y/s2048/Photo%25252020160310213458662.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cSAlPi--A5g/VuHan8AuZSI/AAAAAAAAFCw/9gVbTcZpZ2Y/s500/Photo%25252020160310213458662.jpg" id="blogsy-1457642178260.9148" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> Docking in Harstad, we began a well-timed bus trip over several islands, stopping along the way at the world's most northerly medieval stone church (1250) at Trondeness. The choir screen and pulpit are from 1762. Actually, it was a rather nice church and a pastor officiated at a supposedly ecumenical tri-lingual mini-service. Odd. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUvwsNPC5I7NskP2-JwAWacsEUkBpbed_bzlyH2N9bJW3XY42YrD37Y9Q4KTljWzA6Hfeh4vBiH8exhPp1zbuTtqI1KHde0yNDK4U0a0Mec3_QAs5N2AmsZo56AbeTwxeFElTfq0KxO65o/s2048/Photo%25252020160310213459042.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUvwsNPC5I7NskP2-JwAWacsEUkBpbed_bzlyH2N9bJW3XY42YrD37Y9Q4KTljWzA6Hfeh4vBiH8exhPp1zbuTtqI1KHde0yNDK4U0a0Mec3_QAs5N2AmsZo56AbeTwxeFElTfq0KxO65o/s500/Photo%25252020160310213459042.jpg" id="blogsy-1457642178209.702" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> With a three-hour bus trip, part of which was onboard a ferry, the most impressive part was the timing of the passage of our ship under a bridge as the bus drove across it. They almost deserve the free advertising, above. (We were catching up with the ship at the next port.)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ycyT34IYYI/VuHawG4Q-pI/AAAAAAAAFC4/nfAy8LKcSvY/s2048/Photo%25252020160310213459440.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ycyT34IYYI/VuHawG4Q-pI/AAAAAAAAFC4/nfAy8LKcSvY/s500/Photo%25252020160310213459440.jpg" id="blogsy-1457642178283.4875" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Back at sea, the weather turned to snow and rain, which dampened our plans for more northern lights gazing at night, but added more atmosphere to the late afternoon scenery. This is the Trollfjord previously shown in the night time photo in "On Our Way to a Viking Feast."</p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-88698233522884608612016-03-09T14:18:00.000-08:002016-03-09T14:18:15.666-08:00Hammerfest<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ruE5W-o0I9o/VuB1SOuMzKI/AAAAAAAAFBU/NsdLO2bGooU/s2048/Photo%25252020160309201031917.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ruE5W-o0I9o/VuB1SOuMzKI/AAAAAAAAFBU/NsdLO2bGooU/s500/Photo%25252020160309201031917.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653418.1865" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Hammerfest likes to call itself the northernmost town in the world, although to do so it must rely on definitions that exclude some rather substantial settlements. More legitimate claims to fame include that of being the Polar Bear city (although none have ever lived on the island on which it is located) and as the home of an obelisk marking a primary measurement point for the Struve Geodetic Arc (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Huh? From 1816 though 1855, the Russian astronomer Struve supervised a triangulation project northwards through Europe from Ismail on the Black Sea all the way to Hammerfest to prove that Newton was right and that the Earth isn't perfectly spherical, but is flattened a bit at the poles. So, this was the end of the road.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c2uskIXZ-Zw/VuB1Vx2TNfI/AAAAAAAAFBY/FqGYe4vlhy0/s2048/Photo%25252020160309201032217.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c2uskIXZ-Zw/VuB1Vx2TNfI/AAAAAAAAFBY/FqGYe4vlhy0/s500/Photo%25252020160309201032217.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653409.4707" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Hammerfest, suffering the same fate as Kirkennes, has only one building that survived WWII. It also boasts a church designed to look like cod drying racks. Oil and gas are tremendously important, with tax revenue pulling in US$20 million for a town of 10,000 inhabitants. All of the oil and gas is exported. Norwegians rely on hydropower and wind.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0hrw5KRI0-s/VuB1aanhdNI/AAAAAAAAFBc/RvtyrqzFFe8/s2048/Photo%25252020160309201032491.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0hrw5KRI0-s/VuB1aanhdNI/AAAAAAAAFBc/RvtyrqzFFe8/s500/Photo%25252020160309201032491.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653475.46" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> All along the coast you can see scatterings of houses that have only one way in or out.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GChmdiUZiyY/VuB1ivltSrI/AAAAAAAAFBg/nP56-bjiPBY/s2048/Photo%25252020160309201032715.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GChmdiUZiyY/VuB1ivltSrI/AAAAAAAAFBg/nP56-bjiPBY/s500/Photo%25252020160309201032715.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653468.4795" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-14eHQWDPoEc/VuB1ovU5hsI/AAAAAAAAFBk/ESdPsy0WatA/s2048/Photo%25252020160309201033067.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-14eHQWDPoEc/VuB1ovU5hsI/AAAAAAAAFBk/ESdPsy0WatA/s500/Photo%25252020160309201033067.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653421.779" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bfOgefescZk/VuB4qAkwlpI/AAAAAAAAFB0/h1w3Tp1Ozn0/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202422115.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bfOgefescZk/VuB4qAkwlpI/AAAAAAAAFB0/h1w3Tp1Ozn0/s500/Photo%25252020160309202422115.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653416.2295" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Acquaculture, primarily salmon farming, is another important industry.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu80eOGZswZE8yYOE5BD7Pc6WSUAJTKoGflDoHNUlVrl7Xl-34jc1npQ8kOUowiNmXeOTyh11DTMCsdanDZ2l7nE4ClcacQh4bLmhPlML6V4lV3FEM48pLkwp2GhsNqDVt0S8kYLhKWk46/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202422561.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu80eOGZswZE8yYOE5BD7Pc6WSUAJTKoGflDoHNUlVrl7Xl-34jc1npQ8kOUowiNmXeOTyh11DTMCsdanDZ2l7nE4ClcacQh4bLmhPlML6V4lV3FEM48pLkwp2GhsNqDVt0S8kYLhKWk46/s500/Photo%25252020160309202422561.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653419.083" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N--3PIX38zQ/VuB4x2FTS1I/AAAAAAAAFB8/7SZJq5yQh6E/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202422949.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N--3PIX38zQ/VuB4x2FTS1I/AAAAAAAAFB8/7SZJq5yQh6E/s500/Photo%25252020160309202422949.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653436.5642" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yqwk3J_22q4/VuB427814pI/AAAAAAAAFCA/0sCie2GzP9A/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202423334.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yqwk3J_22q4/VuB427814pI/AAAAAAAAFCA/0sCie2GzP9A/s500/Photo%25252020160309202423334.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653459.3293" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QpvS7x88sTo/VuB47tTQCYI/AAAAAAAAFCE/FtpndC5l7so/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202423734.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QpvS7x88sTo/VuB47tTQCYI/AAAAAAAAFCE/FtpndC5l7so/s500/Photo%25252020160309202423734.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653487.6875" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7_NiOLoY_vo/VuB4_pYozuI/AAAAAAAAFCI/0KFhtxCYu_8/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202424114.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7_NiOLoY_vo/VuB4_pYozuI/AAAAAAAAFCI/0KFhtxCYu_8/s500/Photo%25252020160309202424114.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653403.7156" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t7x9fPY2FAc/VuB5EzjM8TI/AAAAAAAAFCM/Ld0U4GpjLJQ/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202424496.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t7x9fPY2FAc/VuB5EzjM8TI/AAAAAAAAFCM/Ld0U4GpjLJQ/s500/Photo%25252020160309202424496.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653456.7053" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O7x2RcbL1zI/VuB5JByPLnI/AAAAAAAAFCQ/v97pAm3IJHM/s2048/Photo%25252020160309202424864.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O7x2RcbL1zI/VuB5JByPLnI/AAAAAAAAFCQ/v97pAm3IJHM/s500/Photo%25252020160309202424864.jpg" id="blogsy-1457551653488.6304" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> But, tourism due to scenery like this also helps keep the lights on through those long winter nights. This was a stretch of water we motored through at night on the way north. It was nice to see it at dusk.</p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-45311895613407787242016-03-08T13:22:00.000-08:002016-03-08T13:22:46.214-08:00Link to the East<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qcDgwH6MYwA/Vt8zeJRjgAI/AAAAAAAAFAM/te78Du0arew/s2048/Photo%25252020160308211727456.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qcDgwH6MYwA/Vt8zeJRjgAI/AAAAAAAAFAM/te78Du0arew/s500/Photo%25252020160308211727456.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110619.4438" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Kirkennes is the end of the line for the coastal ship line, the turnaround point. It's further east than St. Petersburg or Istanbul and the link to Russia and Finland in the north. In fact, the three countries have created a transit zone to benefit local residents of their countries, including the indigenous Sami people. So, Kirkennes has far more shopping centers than would be justified by its own population.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MLrosFcpdNc/Vt80PP6AdUI/AAAAAAAAFAU/3POqKJUP5Bo/s2048/Photo%25252020160308211727819.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MLrosFcpdNc/Vt80PP6AdUI/AAAAAAAAFAU/3POqKJUP5Bo/s500/Photo%25252020160308211727819.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110615.942" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> It is a city with no buildings from before the end of World War II because it was totally destroyed by a combination of the Allied bombing of the 100,000 German troops stationed there as the staging area for Operation Barbarosa, the Russian liberation of the city from the German's after the failure of the German invasion, and the complete destruction of what remained of the city by the final retreating SS troops.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fx2XOB1mJ7o/Vt80mnWb5vI/AAAAAAAAFAY/dtzPBigKhWo/s2048/Photo%25252020160308211728265.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fx2XOB1mJ7o/Vt80mnWb5vI/AAAAAAAAFAY/dtzPBigKhWo/s500/Photo%25252020160308211728265.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110637.3198" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XoADofXau8M/Vt80uxKoOSI/AAAAAAAAFAc/nJKPHTL033E/s2048/Photo%25252020160308211728747.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XoADofXau8M/Vt80uxKoOSI/AAAAAAAAFAc/nJKPHTL033E/s500/Photo%25252020160308211728747.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110637.2393" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> The civilians of the occupied city survived by hiding underground. 3,000 were in an old mine outside of town (where 11 babies were born) and 1,000 people lived in this tunnel (Andersgrotta) especially built for the emergency by the local people.</p><p>The people of Kirkennes consider the Russians to be heroes, their liberators from the Nazis, but worry this is omitted from history books. During the Cold War, the Norwegian government "improved" the tunnel by adding electricity and toilets, convinced that the Soviet Union would invade them. Our local guide made it clear that this was not a sentiment shared by the town.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvmImQz4RzQpqa-TulYcu1KacES_Sp8q3HBwHmznlw2FA2WXeJ2ZxLXbiu8S5UOitRvx0GvqCfdCOQrefufEncpyfvmjGtFtHng-wJyWvjGilgs_Gr7YaoOTyJpQMj55__sB2DDZAhi88O/s2048/Photo%25252020160308222044643.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvmImQz4RzQpqa-TulYcu1KacES_Sp8q3HBwHmznlw2FA2WXeJ2ZxLXbiu8S5UOitRvx0GvqCfdCOQrefufEncpyfvmjGtFtHng-wJyWvjGilgs_Gr7YaoOTyJpQMj55__sB2DDZAhi88O/s500/Photo%25252020160308222044643.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110615.5566" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Here, at the border with Russia is where over 5,000 refugees recently crossed into Norway from Syria, Afghanistan and other troubled spots in the midst of winter. People from Kirkennes welcomed them as best they could and brought clothes and blankets to help with the extreme cold. They, after all, think of themselves as border people who have all ended up here because their ancestors were fleeing as refugees. It's a blending of cultures and peoples and elementary school children are taught five languages simultaneously, Norwegian, Finnish, Russian, Sami & English. We did not enter Russia, the fine is over $500.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-78235OBHFpA/Vt9CTHdCqBI/AAAAAAAAFA0/-S_1n0tc_ic/s2048/Photo%25252020160308222045101.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-78235OBHFpA/Vt9CTHdCqBI/AAAAAAAAFA0/-S_1n0tc_ic/s500/Photo%25252020160308222045101.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110683.81" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> We coaxed our intrepid leader into demoing a really great sled. Actually, John is an amazing resource, especially concerning the Viking Age. He has 20 books to his credit and has an exceptional sense of humor.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KMOJPSnoiYo/Vt9CXHccHCI/AAAAAAAAFA4/yogVlxeh86c/s2048/Photo%25252020160308222045497.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KMOJPSnoiYo/Vt9CXHccHCI/AAAAAAAAFA4/yogVlxeh86c/s500/Photo%25252020160308222045497.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110645.413" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yOJz2mXWrdc/Vt9CbER-TjI/AAAAAAAAFA8/Adk8LbkybjI/s2048/Photo%25252020160308222045901.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yOJz2mXWrdc/Vt9CbER-TjI/AAAAAAAAFA8/Adk8LbkybjI/s500/Photo%25252020160308222045901.jpg" id="blogsy-1457472110632.3462" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> Beginning our trip back towards Bergen, we stopped briefly at Vardo and took a look at the world's most northerly fortress, built in 1734.</p><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-54339656877812836582016-03-07T11:26:00.000-08:002016-03-07T11:26:26.493-08:00Northernmost<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s7XedIAUeHo/Vt2wK-xECKI/AAAAAAAAE-0/6hmgNOQzAfA/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174511112.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s7XedIAUeHo/Vt2wK-xECKI/AAAAAAAAE-0/6hmgNOQzAfA/s500/Photo%25252020160307174511112.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343336.3435" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WLvbQ9mpeSk/Vt2wOZhFG0I/AAAAAAAAE-4/_hpSFJZytMI/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174511558.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WLvbQ9mpeSk/Vt2wOZhFG0I/AAAAAAAAE-4/_hpSFJZytMI/s500/Photo%25252020160307174511558.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343322.9368" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> In a land of fishing, reindeer herding, and tourism, we were headed to the northernmost point in Europe.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-52Ls1LlLI-k/Vt2wR3AlMTI/AAAAAAAAE-8/HlFOBVP7Ceg/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174511913.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-52Ls1LlLI-k/Vt2wR3AlMTI/AAAAAAAAE-8/HlFOBVP7Ceg/s500/Photo%25252020160307174511913.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343397.023" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Our familiar blue dot made its way through the various straits, headed to Honnigsvag and a bus ride up to Nordkapp (the North Cape).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ucXzStEBuqc/Vt2wVlKvkMI/AAAAAAAAE_A/ndXP3m8r4jI/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174512279.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ucXzStEBuqc/Vt2wVlKvkMI/AAAAAAAAE_A/ndXP3m8r4jI/s500/Photo%25252020160307174512279.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343415.2532" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Racks with drying cod were along the road, cod destined for mainly for Spain and Portugal as bacalao (known as klippfisk in Norwegian). The Norwegians harvest cod in winter. It's only when it is also fermented that it is known as lutefisk.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WRb8RfTXFl4/Vt2wZe5XC3I/AAAAAAAAE_E/aYznENcewYc/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174512593.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WRb8RfTXFl4/Vt2wZe5XC3I/AAAAAAAAE_E/aYznENcewYc/s500/Photo%25252020160307174512593.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343379.4111" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> On our way, we had passed the northernmost gas station and the northernmost supermarket.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zK4F_DfTHfg/Vt2wcuJqu6I/AAAAAAAAE_I/On3bUXsVfCk/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174512938.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zK4F_DfTHfg/Vt2wcuJqu6I/AAAAAAAAE_I/On3bUXsVfCk/s500/Photo%25252020160307174512938.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343419.7761" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="376"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2d2Qq76ZUxw/Vt2wf8hwCeI/AAAAAAAAE_M/OMCFZTRjJEk/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174513368.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2d2Qq76ZUxw/Vt2wf8hwCeI/AAAAAAAAE_M/OMCFZTRjJEk/s500/Photo%25252020160307174513368.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343332.3887" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V9ixK6K-G-4/Vt2wjvAQcEI/AAAAAAAAE_Q/CK9TDa9i2PE/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174513749.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V9ixK6K-G-4/Vt2wjvAQcEI/AAAAAAAAE_Q/CK9TDa9i2PE/s500/Photo%25252020160307174513749.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343350.6545" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9uvLDO_hZz8/Vt2wnDDio6I/AAAAAAAAE_U/4xuDOcf6PmM/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174514116.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9uvLDO_hZz8/Vt2wnDDio6I/AAAAAAAAE_U/4xuDOcf6PmM/s500/Photo%25252020160307174514116.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343369.3142" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> At great risk of being blown 1,000 feet off the cliff and into the sea, we tourists braced ourselves for the obligatory photo at the marker.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YbHPmBPqXyw/Vt2wquQVPpI/AAAAAAAAE_Y/OXFAedzkUYU/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174514513.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YbHPmBPqXyw/Vt2wquQVPpI/AAAAAAAAE_Y/OXFAedzkUYU/s500/Photo%25252020160307174514513.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343406.2913" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P3C4XwqCnac/Vt2wthLSTZI/AAAAAAAAE_c/QFOCyXMU0r4/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174514875.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P3C4XwqCnac/Vt2wthLSTZI/AAAAAAAAE_c/QFOCyXMU0r4/s500/Photo%25252020160307174514875.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343380.3025" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> But, it was breathtaking.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LWW1Quw9xgE/Vt2wxBeA7aI/AAAAAAAAE_k/8H8x01NBjug/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174515267.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LWW1Quw9xgE/Vt2wxBeA7aI/AAAAAAAAE_k/8H8x01NBjug/s500/Photo%25252020160307174515267.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343344.3604" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J6b4fekD8Ro/Vt2w0gCFkWI/AAAAAAAAE_o/B9Q3u-LlKPY/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174515668.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J6b4fekD8Ro/Vt2w0gCFkWI/AAAAAAAAE_o/B9Q3u-LlKPY/s500/Photo%25252020160307174515668.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343426.2678" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R3tD7rruCfw/Vt2w4GHjJ4I/AAAAAAAAE_s/CmacMw19p6A/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174516064.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R3tD7rruCfw/Vt2w4GHjJ4I/AAAAAAAAE_s/CmacMw19p6A/s500/Photo%25252020160307174516064.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343354.676" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fLEWcsxhHxc/Vt2w7Wox_bI/AAAAAAAAE_w/V4bGpp7yZvg/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174516405.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fLEWcsxhHxc/Vt2w7Wox_bI/AAAAAAAAE_w/V4bGpp7yZvg/s500/Photo%25252020160307174516405.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343364.481" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jxpcj02wnTk/Vt2w_Ba-uII/AAAAAAAAE_0/U4GAQjZ9Avc/s2048/Photo%25252020160307174516892.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jxpcj02wnTk/Vt2w_Ba-uII/AAAAAAAAE_0/U4GAQjZ9Avc/s500/Photo%25252020160307174516892.jpg" id="blogsy-1457369343423.722" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> As were the views on the way back to our ship.</p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3255262854432324879.post-77413024943499442016-03-06T12:31:00.001-08:002016-03-06T12:31:05.022-08:00And On We Go<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zM0fEE5DuGg/VtyPI3JioaI/AAAAAAAAE90/I8Tmmr-yExg/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211201754.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zM0fEE5DuGg/VtyPI3JioaI/AAAAAAAAE90/I8Tmmr-yExg/s500/Photo%25252020160306211201754.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261508.4482" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bxXGZG2WyBc/VtyPMJxE0hI/AAAAAAAAE94/PgCCkhTtpj8/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211202176.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bxXGZG2WyBc/VtyPMJxE0hI/AAAAAAAAE94/PgCCkhTtpj8/s500/Photo%25252020160306211202176.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261452.1492" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FQLiSLlI3l0/VtyPUfVY95I/AAAAAAAAE98/HFf7d4JjHfc/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211202562.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FQLiSLlI3l0/VtyPUfVY95I/AAAAAAAAE98/HFf7d4JjHfc/s500/Photo%25252020160306211202562.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261427.128" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> As we round the deck for exercise (5 times = a mile), the ship forges further north and further east on its 1,532 mile one-way journey to Kirkennes, a journey in which crossing the Arctic Circle gets you only halfway northward and the eastward trajectory goes as far east as Cairo.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-maiHn-rj8js/VtyPvs55-gI/AAAAAAAAE-A/WB-I5lqd81M/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211202802.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-maiHn-rj8js/VtyPvs55-gI/AAAAAAAAE-A/WB-I5lqd81M/s500/Photo%25252020160306211202802.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261509.1545" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> Almost missed what looks like a bunker from WWII.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BvdMLz3FeoE/VtyQA8M5jqI/AAAAAAAAE-E/cBjKi1TGdzY/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211203187.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BvdMLz3FeoE/VtyQA8M5jqI/AAAAAAAAE-E/cBjKi1TGdzY/s500/Photo%25252020160306211203187.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261476.3853" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Iljwgn923w0/VtyQHVdoieI/AAAAAAAAE-I/YWkckdET2oM/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211203570.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Iljwgn923w0/VtyQHVdoieI/AAAAAAAAE-I/YWkckdET2oM/s500/Photo%25252020160306211203570.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261493.9663" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G-sapv6cC94/VtyQOPhGx8I/AAAAAAAAE-M/39FXlJlPO_8/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211203936.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G-sapv6cC94/VtyQOPhGx8I/AAAAAAAAE-M/39FXlJlPO_8/s500/Photo%25252020160306211203936.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261478.5312" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> At times the landscape could pass for a fanciful painting of an alien world.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kJTuyX9fF0I/VtyQTU05TaI/AAAAAAAAE-Q/Xu2MSWZRvXI/s2048/Photo%25252020160306211204314.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kJTuyX9fF0I/VtyQTU05TaI/AAAAAAAAE-Q/Xu2MSWZRvXI/s500/Photo%25252020160306211204314.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261514.609" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> In Tromso, waiting our turn for a planetarium show, we had our own alien entertainments in the attached science museum.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YzyUG6U1kvI/VtyTgy9_G0I/AAAAAAAAE-c/98E-ttzNdTU/s2048/Photo%25252020160306213020814.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YzyUG6U1kvI/VtyTgy9_G0I/AAAAAAAAE-c/98E-ttzNdTU/s500/Photo%25252020160306213020814.jpg" id="blogsy-1457296261531.2957" class="alignnone" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">The magnetic rods dropped at random intervals, the object of course to catch them as they fall. Anything for a challenge!</div><p> </p>Amajinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16641808651148317130noreply@blogger.com0