Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Arbanasi and Veliko Tărnovo, Bulgaria

Having docked in Rousse, Bulgaria, we traveled into the mountains to the neighboring towns of Arbanasi and Veliko Tărnovo.

Veliko Tărnovo, clinging to a steep hillside, was the capital of the Bulgarian Second Empire from the 12th through the 14th Centuries.


Overlooking the town on a hill with evidence of human habitation going back as far as the third millenium BC, is Tsarevets Fortress. It was the fortified castle for the ruling dynasty during the Second Empire. Back to our favorite medieval means of dealing with the unwanted, it features a rock from which traitors were thrown, high above the river, known as Execution Rock. The church at the top of the hill was reconstructed in the early 1980s and features rather odd secular/religious frescoes in the socialist realist style that prevailed across the communist bloc prior to 1989.

In Arbanassi there is a museum in Konstantsaliyata's House, an example of a well-to-do Ottoman family dwelling from the 18th century. Arbanassi remains a desirable place for privileged Bulgarians to have second homes.

The Church of the Nativity of Christ was built in the 15th to 17th Centuries in Arbanassi in compliance with the requirements of the Ottomans. As you can see, an early way of dealing with height restrictions for buildings was to build them half buried in the ground. The frescos inside are original, albeit cleaned up and restored. The bottom photo features a fresco teaching the lesson of Palm Sunday, the day of our visit.
Amanda works off some of her lunch.
Martenitsa are made of red and white yarn and are given by Bulgarians to friends and loved ones. They are worn on your clothes or wrist until you see a stork or a budding tree. Then they are hung on a fruit tree to bring good luck for the emerging spring.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Cruising to Bulgaria

Down the river from Belgrade, but still in Serbia, are the ruins of the 14th Century Golubac fortress. Looks like a good defensive position for those times, although it attracted a lot of battles and changed hands often. All of the powers in the region seem to have held it at some point. Doesn't look very comfortable these days.

On the Romanian bank of the river there is an enormous likeness of King Decebalus, carved in 2004. He was a Dacian king who reigned from 87-106 AD and was defeated by the Romans. The Romanians are proud of their history as a non-Slavic people who have been in the region for thousands of years.

Cruising further down the Danube and stopping at the port of Vidin, Bulgaria, we first went up into the mountains to Belgradchik ("little white city"). The fortress above the town is built into fantastic rock formations. The Romans were first to begin fortifications (the wall at the top of the first photo between the rocks) and the Ottomans built the walls further down. Notice the person in the arched passageway in the second photo? The scale of this was breath taking. A well is in the lower fortress and there are two cisterns up top. Again, not very cozy, but stunning views.
The medieval Baba Vida fortress in Vidin dates from the 10th Century. Legend has it that a Bulgarian King who ruled from Vidin had three daughters and divided his kingdom among them. The sisters of Vida married drunkards and their kingdoms did not succeed. However, Vida never married, but devoted herself to her subjects, including building strong fortifications here at the fortress. Her subjects named the fortress after her, i.e. as "Grandma Vida."
So far, northwestern Bulgaria has been very economically depressed, slow to recover from the transition from a communist economy to a free market. The country is losing population very quickly. The visible signs of poverty were hard to miss.

Friday, April 11, 2014

Belgrade, Serbia

As we go further down the Danube towards the Black Sea, we venture further into the territories formerly occupied by the Ottoman Empire: the further we go, the longer the areas were retained in the back and forth history of the region. At a strategic geographic choke point in the contest between two great world civilizations Belgrade ("beo" = white; "grad" = city) was besieged in 115 wars and razed 44 times in its long history. Our local guide quipped that even having been born in 1984 she had lived in four countries, without moving once.

Belgrade fortress is in the upper city, well protected by the steep terrain in the direction of the Sava and Danube rivers. Inside are collections of tanks from the world wars and tennis courts for the gifted players produced here like Novak Djokovic.
Despite the Serbs' great bitterness about Turkish occupation, they also admired and respected enlightened rulers. The Ottoman Grand Vizier Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha's tomb remains inside Belgrade fortress and was protected by being removed prior to bombardments and then returned by the Serbs. Among other things, he allowed them to reopen their churches. He was killed in battle against the Austrians in 1716.
The "Conqueror's Road" was the best route to take to besiege the fortress for 2000 years. No one seemed to be alarmed by our presence.
With Serbia's history of occupation, the Sava Cathedral is a 20th and 21st century project for the Serbs, helped along by generous donations from expatriate Serbs. It is being built over the ground where the sarcophagus and relics of Saint Sava had been burned and the ashes scattered by the Turks in 1595 and is the largest Orthodox Church in the world.

Serbia has something of a violent past when it comes to their monarchy. We walked by the former royal palace (now town hall) where winners of Olympic medals and the like stand on the balcony to be recognized. When we had passed by earlier in a bus with our guide, she also mentioned that a King and Queen had been thrown from the same balcony. Actually, that's not quite the full story and it reminded us of the defenestrations in Prague (although the happenings in Prague were rather tame in comparison). It seems that young King Alexander I had acceded to the throne when his father King Milan abdicated and fled the country. Alexander proceeded to do many unpopular things, such as marrying a widowed former lady-in-waiting and then considering naming her wildly unpopular brother as heir presumptive when Alexander and Queen Draga turned out to be unable to have children. To make a long and fascinating story shorter, there was an army conspiracy, headed by a key member of the same Black Hand society responsible for later goings-on in Sarajevo, to assasinate the King and Queen to make way for a new dynasty . They invaded the palace, found the couple hiding in a cupboard in her bedroom, shot them, mutilated them, disembowled them, and threw what remained off the balony onto a pile of animal manure. Nicely done, don't you think?

 

Our visit to the Tesla Museum was a fascinating detour into the life of Nicola Tesla, an extraordinary pioneer in electronics. He invented, among other things, the induction motor, radio (per the US Supreme Court in a ruling against Marconi), and remote control. Here, our guide (a local student in contention for an internship at SpaceX) demonstrates how transmission of electricity remotely can light of a fluorescent sign and Jim helped to demonstrate the same principle with a huge jolt of high frequency current (see the bolt of electricity under the black ball). Some of you may recall that Matsumoto uses low frequency current as a murder weapon in his detective novel Inspector Imanishi Investigates. It turns out that this isn't fanciful after all. High frequency is safe, or at least that's what we were told.


Belgrade is a city we were sorry to leave. We could easily have spent another day. One reason, of course, is that people in Belgrade apparently love dogs. It's our kind of place (and the coffees and cakes are good, too).

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Vukovar & Osijek, Croatia

A visit to Eastern Europe wouldn't be complete without sighting a stork. Besides, we thought it would be nice to start out this post with something gentle and upbeat.


The neighborhood cat (in Vukovar, eastern Croatia) is posing in front of some of the remaining war damage from the Serbo-Croatian war begun in 1991 when the Croatians decided to split from Yugoslavia. It's quite modest compared with other damage we noticed, with roofs and walls blown away. However, 90% of the town of Vukovar, where we docked, was destroyed as well as 30% of the larger town of Osijek, visited during the stopover. War damage is still much in evidence. The road we took between the towns was known as the graveyard of tanks, as 84 tanks were destroyed on it by Croatian resistance fighters during the war. Seeing even the last bits to be tidied up in these towns made us think of how much of Europe must have looked after the world wars.

The tour proceeded to visit a very funny entrepreneur and his family out in the country. He has brandy and wines and savory treats and cakes for the tourists to try at 10:00 in the morning, plus the all-important toilets. There are displays of fishing gear and crafts and lots of things for sale. Nino puts on a zany presentation in which he manages to actually convey serious information about his country to his unwitting audience. Here he is sporting a Buso mask, asking to be photographed, but which he used to launch into an explanation of the two Battles of Mohacs (in nearby Hungary). The 1st battle was won decisively by the Ottomans in 1526, beginning Ottoman occupation of the region. In the 2nd battle in 1687, the forces of the Holy Roman Empire crushed the Ottomans and the Ottoman army subsequently fell apart, paving the way for Hapsburg forces to gain control over substantial territory. Nino tied the Buso mask to a legend that people from Mohacs were hiding in the forest to avoid Ottoman troops occupying the town. They were told to don scary masks and sneak up on the troops making a lot of noise. The troops, obviously, ran away and the people regained the town. An older legend that's not as much fun maintains that they chased away Winter. Maybe that's slightly more plausible.

Looking back to another cheery episode of history (although one not involving armies on the march), we've learned that columns that look like this are trinity columns (as in Father, Son and Holy Ghost). They were erected in memory of victims of the Black Death.
A much more recent memorial in Osijek is a crucifix made after the most recent war from machine gun parts left behind.

It is hard to disagree with what seems to be a tour company talking point for guides: every country from time to time does good things and does bad things. Unfortunately, that may be true, but it doesn't offer much solace for the future. (Cue the music for an upbeat conclusion to this posting.)

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

We're Launched Down the Danube

Finally, we're off! We loved Prague and Budapest, but motoring down a waterway and seeing the smaller locales is what river cruising is all about. The first stop was a place called Kalocsa. It also has a history, with a bishopric created there by King Stephen right after the turn of the millenium (the first one). Right off the bus, we were herded into an interesting church (although we're certain you're beginning to tire of church interiors, so we'll spare you the picture) and were treated to an organ concert by this priest peering out from the organ loft. Bach and the usual suspects.

Now that the Bishop has his residence back after the close of the Soviet era, it's again an active Catholic town. Of course, there always seems to be a quirkiness about things. It seems that one of the prized possessions of this Bishopric is a Bible with comments by Martin Luther and signed by him. In a borderland of cultures and empires, it's good to keep an open-ish mind and soften the hard edges of culture and religion. Besides, we keep being reminded by guides that the history of Hungary seems to be mostly that of occupation and a continual shrinking of its territory (most significantly after WWI), one quipping that Hungary is the only country that is surrounded by itself.

We moved on to the Puszta horse farm for a horse show and a look in a barn. We must admit that descriptions of this excursion elicited groans from yours truly. Of course, we thoroughly enjoyed what we most dreaded. The horses were modest in size, a mixture of Mongolian and Arabian horses, and were exceptionally well trained.

Amanda got pulled out of the crowd for a demonstration of precise whip control (oh, great!).

This was also demonstrated by knocking pegs off posts, as there were no more human volunteers.

The grey cattle are prized for beef (purportedly on a par with Kobe beef), although they didn't seem to be too afraid of us.

These rather odd looking pigs (and piglets) aren't half sheep, but the result of breeding Serbian pigs with Hungarian pigs. However they do it, the bacon and ham we've been having in Hungary have been exceptional. The sort of selection of hams that you may remember from Jim's lunch the other day is also offered on board the ship.

 

Godolo & Neologue, All in a Day

Godolo (pretend there are umlauts over all those "o"s) Palace was a wedding gift to Emperor Franz Josef and Queen Elisabeth, they of the dual monarchy of Austria and Hungary. Elisabeth loved to spend time there and was fluent in Hungarian. Having fallen on hard times, such as WWI, WWII and Soviet occupation, a restoration program has begun to make a real difference and the interior has significant sections open to the public. People of the village managed to hide a substantial number of the furnishings during WWII and brought them out after the Soviets left, meaning that there are original furnishings from the Hapsburgs in Godolo palace (a no photography zone). Violet, Elisabeth's favorite color, is much in evidence, although she only wore black after her son Rudolf died under suspicious circumstances and was herself assassinated by a publicity seeker in Switzerland. Franz Josef must have wondered about Elisabeth. Her favorite Hungarian poet was a revolutionary dedicated to ouster of the Hapsburg dynasty. During our visit, the Hungarians were commemorating a battle against the Austrians in the 19th century. They lost.

Once again, we find that we must backtrack a bit to correct the record. Returning to the Synagogue, we discovered from our guide Reuben (from, among other places, Queens) that the Synagogue is actually the world's second largest synagogue (#1 being in NYC). It seats 3500 without extra chairs brought in. It's a Neologue synagogue, which is the same as (or akin to) Conservative Judaism. The reason it looks so much like a church is that it was designed by a Catholic architect and the city at the time (the 19th century) restricted architectural styles. Reuben let loose his sense of humor to try to explain the difference between Neologue and Orthodox (as a non-observant Jew). [This rabbi walks into a butcher shop and points to the shank of ham behind the counter. I'll take that nice piece of smoked salmon. But rabbi, that's a piece of ham. You call it what you like, I'll take that beautiful gefilte fish.] On a more sober note, we found the memorial tree to Hungarian Jews killed in the Holocaust to be quite evocative. There are 5,000 names engraved on individual metal leaves on The Tree of Life, the willow tree traditionally representing mourning.

 

 

 

Monday, April 7, 2014

From Pest to Buda to Pest

We started our city tour in the flat land of Pest, built up in the nineteenth century from a sleepy village, with drive-bys of a number of sites that we later doubled back to visit.

The neo-moorish Great Synangogue, reputed to be the third largest in the world, was closed for a wedding when we ventured there in the afternoon.

We had better luck at St. Stephen's Basillica which was, as you can see, drop dead beautiful. We went into the attached Holy Right Hand chapel to take a look at (you got it) the late King Stephen's hand, but you couldn't see much. King Stephen was the first King of Hungary, crowned with the Pope's blessing in 1000.

 

Hero's Square, built on the Pest side in 1896 as part of the millenial celebration of the Magyar tribes conquering the Carpathian Basin in 896, features the leaders of the seven tribes.

Buda developed much earlier into a city, being hilly and offering a good defensive location for a castle and then a palace. As is the case in much of Europe, the castle area was almost completely destroyed and has been rebuilt, sometimes multiple times. This facade does, however, date from the fourteenth century and has been restored. Must have been colorful neighborhood.

Fifteenth century King Matthias built Our Lady Church, commonly known as Matthias church, after he was imprisoned by his rival for the crown. A raven took his ring to his mother from the prison to assure her that he was still alive. Matthias church has undergone many changes over the centuries, including serving as a mosque during the 150 years of Ottoman rule. Hungarians joke that if the Ottomans stayed for 150 years, the Austrians stayed for 400 years, and the Russians stayed for 50 years, tourists should stay for at least one day longer.

The Fishermen's Bastion provides a magnificent view over Buda and Pest. The seven towers in Magyar style symbolize the seven founding tribes. It's King Stephen looking back towards Matthias church. It all makes us wonder if we should change our minds about no longer following Game of Thrones.

Back in Pest, lunch was at DiVin Porcello, Friends of Ham. As you can see, Jim had the Hungarian ham plate and the assorted pickles. It was amazing. The pickles on top on the right seemed to be eggplant. Wow, was that good!

Dinner was at Menza. We both followed goulash soup (a must in Hungary) with roast chicken and beet root risotto. The chicken was perfectly done and who knew to put beets in risotto?

We made our way to the Liszt Academy, newly reopened in October 2013 after extensive and stunning renovations of this Art Deco masterpiece, for a concert by a Canadian chamber group performing music by neglected early twentieth century European Jewish composers. It was outstanding. The Lego depiction of the main concert hall was interesting, but our concert was in the smaller Sir Georg Solti hall. Then, with a subway ride back to the hotel, we called it a day.